Removing burnt oil from TriMill Exhaust?

Dawn grill cleaner. You can get it at Lowes or Wal-mart  it works great

One word of caution.....  Any cleaner that uses a base (LYE) element will damage aluminum and / or magnesium quickly.....  (That is why you never "Hot Tank" those parts.)  It is also a GREAT paint remover.....

How do he know????    

Thanks guys. I'll get some of the Dawn grill cleaner and an oven cleaner (need to clean the oven anyway)I'll be sure to test each item first in a small area.  I'll let you know if anything works.

Pete

I'm sure it's been mentioned before, but never use brake cleaner on a hot surface.

http://www2.worksafebc.com/i/p...s/2013/ws_13_09.html

I HAD GOOD LUCK IN CLEANING UP SOME CHROME FINISHED HEADERS THAT HAD OIL BAKED UPON THEM FROM A LEAKING VALVE COVER USING OVEN CLEANER AND SCRUBBING THE WORST AREAS LIGHTLY WITH A WHITE/FINE SCRUBBY PAD. FOR BEST RESULTS ALLOW THE HEADER/PIPES TO HEAT UP UNTIL YOU CAN JUST TOUCH THEM WITHOUT BURNING YOU FINGERS.

....AND BE VERY SURE TO TEST FIRST ON A SMALL INCONSPICUOUS AREA, SOME METALS AND FINISHES WILL BADLY DISCOLOR WITH OVEN CLEANER.

Thanks Terry, yes, I know the flash point of brake cleaner must be pretty low and may not have thought of that when trying to clean it with a glove. Thank you Sir!

Thanks G.R. I was thinking of a scrub pad as well.

It's cool to have such a great place to go to for help and advice. Thanks to all you guys/gals on the SOC

Pete

I use citrus cleaner. The same stuff you buy to clean your ceramic stovetops.

...and who said I was worthless.

You never said if it was a stainless steel, ceramic coated or raw steel tri mill exhaust.  If ceramic - not sure i'd use steel wool on it.  Once leak is stopped it should burn off. 

Wolf, I thought it was stainless steel, but now think it is aluminum.  TRP & G.R. another guy at a local parts place suggested Miracle Oil, I will try to find the bronze wool(who knew). Thanks Rusty too.

I tried some spray mag cleaner (because I had it) and that pretty much worked! I did pick up some oven cleaner though.  There are some minor spots on now and I'll try the Grill cleaner, oil and wool for the rest.

Funny I also had to change a leaking valve cover gasket and after starting the car I noticed the crank pulley 3/8" drive nut was loose! When I put this in to go to Carlisle I tighten it to above 50lbs. After some folks here noted the proper was 32 or so lbs. and others said tighter. I was shocked to see it loose again, that's what caused my original problem. When I put the new crank and AC pulley on I'll use LocTight blue.

Thanks again,

Pete 

Pete,

Your crank pulley needs a heck of a lot more than 50 lb/ft. Tighten it.

Also, your exhaust is not AL, almost guaranteed. 5 bucks says it's ceramic coated mild steel.

33 lbs. is correct for the crank pullet bolt

ENGINE TORQUE SPECS:

33 ft.-lbs. .......... Crankshaft pulley nut
14 ft.-lbs. .......... Oil pump nuts
33 ft.-lbs. .......... Oil drain plug
5 ft.-lbs. .......... Oil strainer cover nuts ( use small ratchet and pinky finger to snug)
18 ft.-lbs. .......... Cylinder head nuts* (8mm)
23 ft.-lbs. .......... Cylinder head nuts* (10mm)
253 ft.-lbs. ........ Flywheel bolt/gland nut
14 ft.-lbs. .......... 8mm Crankcase nuts and screws
25 ft.-lbs. .......... 10mm Crankcase nuts
24 ft.-lbs. .......... Connecting rod bolts
22 ft.-lbs. .......... Engine securing nuts

That'd be true if it were a steel pulley. I'd really, really doubt it is.

Thanks Stan & Alan,

My exhaust is a pea shooter type that says Tri Mill. Now I'm not sure what it's made of. Any way it's pretty clean now. The new cork valve gasket I put on stopped the cover leak.

My crank combination AC pulley (Has a smaller diameter AC pulley attached to the crank pulley) is a CB aluminum pulley.  I will just crank (pardon my pun) it tight with some blue LocTight on the bolt threads.

Pete