removing crankshaft pulley

I have to remove the crank pulley on my roadster to put a shim in. It would seem straightforward, but I'm just wondering if there are any particular cautions to take. It has a 911 cooling setup.

Thanks

RJC

It's best to use a puller. You can usually "walk" the pulley off with two large screwdrivers, but be careful not to damage anything or bend the pulley.

Bob, I use a big screwdriver or small pry bar and a rubber mallet. I GENTLY pry back the pulley, while I tap the side of the pulley with my rubber mallet. I have the same set up as you. Why do you need to add a shim?
Ron

shim?

I need to add a shim behind the crank pulley to bring it out a little from the block. With my 911 setup, for some reason the generator pulley is farther out from the engine than the crank pulley, and the fan belt rubs against the fan centre hub i.e. the fan belt angles down and in from the the generator to the crank, and at speed rubs a little on the fan hub.

This was discussed with the engine builder, and he said that a shim should help to correct the problem.

If you look at the engine shot in my files 1999 IM D, you can see a black circle on the fan hub from the fan belt rubbing. And it rubs because the belt angles inwards toward the crank pulley.

Bob
(Message Edited 9/24/2003 9:31:06 AM)

Just curious...what type of pulley bolt do you have? If you're going to put a shim behind the pulley it might be a good idea to go with a longer, Gene Berg bolt (if you don't already use one)
Ron

Ron:

I'm not sure how long my bolt is (no comments, please). But that's one of the things I was wondering about.

How do I get a longer bolt if I need one? (recent spam emails notwithstanding). I have a 78.4mm Demello counterweighted crank shaft (forged). The shim is not that thick, perhaps 3/16 inch, so it's probably not going to be a problem.

Bob
(Message Edited 9/24/2003 10:17:38 PM)

I bought a crankshaft pulley puller for $19.95. It made it an easy job to pull the pulley. In the Speedster it aint' so easy getting pry bars in the engine bay. I really bent my stock pulley pretty good before I received my puller. I wouldn't want to damage my new alloy pulley. I now have another nifty tool to add to my flywheel lock, tie rod puller, ... specialty tool collection.
(Message Edited 9/25/2003 8:32:29 AM)

Erik, I agree that a pulley puller is a good idea. I've just been able to get my off with a gentle pry while tapping on the side with a rubber mallet. I have a Gene Berg Equalizer pulley and I would not want to damage it ($$$$$$)
Bob, you're probably right...about not needing a longer bolt. I just wanted to play it safe...so I bought a used Gene Berg bolt from the fellow who built my motor.
Ron
P.S. Info on the Gene Berg bolt

Super Strength Pulley Bolt
GB 435 Special Berg 125,000 PSI pulley bolt that is about 0.250" longer than stock, provides room for our dual Belleville spring washers.

(Message Edited 9/25/2003 5:53:17 PM)