Removing IM inside door handles??

My older IM has drift pins. I had to push hard on the plastic bezel into the door panel to expose them. My inside door lever quit opening the latch. I discovered that the rod was pre-bent to shorten it and now it would flex straight and not work. The fix was to cut and straighten the rod,preload it as required (test with a number of trys with vice grips) then weld in a straight line.

Dave's got it right, but just to make it clear;

From the inside of the door, push the inner door panel and the door handle bezel in as far as you can and you should see an off-center dowell pin in the handle base.  Depending on the vintage, it may or not be off-center.  With it exposed, use a hammer and small punch (or a nail, if that's all ya got) and just tap it out.  Once out, the handle should pull right off (maybe with a little wiggling).

Gn

Thanks david and gordon. I found them...and punched the little bastards out.

...but what a little biach of a job getting them back in. After a real fight I got them all in. However I think someone had already done the same job more than once 'cause the drift pins were all quite loose. Both sets of handles...and to my extreme dismay 2 actually fell out after I got them back in!

 I think I'll get the girl to help next time. She can put the dowel in the hole while I apply maximum pressure on the trim'...hey now!

 Calling IM manana for new drift pins. 

 Dynamat project went off smoothly though. One layer of DYNAMAT and another of DYNALINER (a multi layer foam sound barrier about 5/16" thick). Did the entire inside surface of each door. My doors are now completely and utterly DEAD. Shutting them feels like a Cadillac..or a tubillac' if you may'. Dynamat rocks.

 I know there's cheaper stuff out there but someone once told me DYNAMAT is safe and some of those bargain brands can be toxic. It could have been a DYNAMAT saleman but I'm opting for safety.

 Also did the engine hatch the same way. Should make a difference. Looks real nice too. The

old leather inserts were really beat up..sides pealing. They are small pieces of do nothing material. I made the new insulation fit the entire exposed inner panels. It's also now a DEAD surface

here's what I used>

Door shot>

Hatch>

BTW, you can buy Dynamat at a roofing supply store under the name Bituminous Liner or Membrane.  It's a standard roofing product and run about 50x cheaper than Dynamat.  It comes with and without adhesive backing.  If you can only get it locally without adhesive, a can of spray glue works great.  This one tip has saved me thousands on multiple cars.

-=theron

really good tip T'. Does it say 'DYNAMAT' on it?

AND yep I've got 3m adhesive spray  here. The good sh*t.. Not my first insulation rodeo by a long stretch... I used on the vapor barriers since that glue had long dried out.

Did a little research:

Alternatives to Dynamat:

(Home Depot): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMnSywjUxp0

Lowes: http://www.resisto.ca/membrane...s-Waterproofing.aspx

Resisto site: click "Multipurpose aluminum waterproofing membrane" for image.

And those pins in the door handles are, believe it or not, are METRIC!!

As an alternative, go to a good hardware store (take along your door handle) and get a "tension pin" ( sometimes called a 'roll pin') that fits into the handle with a bit of pressure.  Not too much, just enough to hold it in there.

nice to know.

I guess you can get dynamat at the home depot..but can you get 'dynaliner'? I think not.

dynamat is primarily for vibration (and some sound)..dynaliner is for sound. the combo' makes an amazing difference compared to just dynamat

For my door handles I just snipped pieces from aluminum pop rivets. They fit loose but are held in by the plastic piece.

i need to 'mcgiver them somehow. I believe the dowels/pins are fine. it's the holes that are most likely 'rounded'. all the handles are in fine shape.  no sense buying all new handles just so the pins would fit.