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As I go through this new-change-things-around phase, I want to try to document for others certain projects that required “thought” and “figuring”.  The first in the series is the Porsche replica ignition switch.  I wanted the smooth feel of a Porsche switch, and Porsche keys, although most 356s may not have had the early 911-look small Porsche key.  

I ended up buying 3 switches and returning two.  The first was a Bosch switch from SMC.  It was nice enough but I didn’t realize it required a start button.  I didn’t want that, so that was a bust.  

The second was an expensive Porsche replica from SMC that comes with the small key with Porsche logos, like an early 911 (or maybe late 356s).  I went for that on the spur of the moment because SMC didn’t have a Bosch regular ignition switch.  I bought 12 of the special Porsche bullet connectors to go with the switch because the switch requires them.

It was expensive so I looked on ebay and found a regular Bosch switch to compare.  When they both came, I hemmed and hawed it decided on the Porsche replica because I was surprised the Bosch doesn’t fit a Porsche key even though it looks like it might.  

So now the puzzling.  A Porsche replica switch uses Bosch electrical numbering, and 5mm bullet connectors that seem to be a Porsche-only part.  The VMC switch has “IGN,” “ACC, “BAT,” and “ST” markings, not numbering.

The old IGN wires go on the Porsche “15” sockets, the BAT wires go on the 30 sockets, and the ACC wires go on the 54 sockets and the ST wire goes in the 50 socket.

In short (pun intended),

30 is on all the time
15 is on when the ignition is on
54 is auxiliary (e.g. for playing the radio)
50 is the starter
Then there is the puzzle of how to solder the (dumb) Porsche bullet connectors.  It is very difficult to solder into the hole in the end of the bullet connector.  I tinned the wire, and then coiled super thin stranded fluxed solder around the tinned wire, with as much solder as I could put and still fit it dry into the Porsche bullet.  Then I put the tip of the iron (as hot as mine goes) into the little hole at the small end of the bullet.  Once I could feel the wire start to get moveable, I knew the solder was melted and could release.  I found that a couple came loose as I was installing and had to be redone.  
Frankly, I don’t like Porsche bullets.  To use for my future Porsche OEM gauges, I ordered some gold plated 5mm bullets from Amazon and then put shrink wrap around the tail end of the soldered bullet to cover anything that wouldn’t be in the socket.  It’s a cleaner final product than the Porsche bullet and I think the solder will hold much better.
Before and after on the ignition switches:
VMC
IMG_3948IMG_3947
Porsche Remanufacture from SMC
IMG_410171126152038__5A355EF1-9D47-498F-BF1E-18AAE5BF8EE5

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Last edited by Teammccalla
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The first switch you bought didn't have to be used with a start button. If you had pushed in on the key and continued turning the key not would have traveled to the start position.

IF you wanted to use it with a start button you would have turned the key to the first position and stopped when you couldn't turn the key anymore then pressed the start button. Push in and turn the key some more and the car would start then return to the first position.

https://sierramadrecollection....tch-with-keys-p17103

Last edited by Robert M

I’m not so sure.  Could be, but it didn’t feel like that.  It was three positions.  Accessory, off and on.  It didn’t have the fourth position of starter.  The SMC guy I talked to said they didn’t have the 4 position one.  I guess it doesn’t matter anymore because I installed the other.

I would have always been wanting a Porsche key too, and the Bosch key looks similar but isn’t actually the same as the Porsche key blanks.

Last edited by Teammccalla
@Teammccalla posted:


Then there is the puzzle of how to solder the (dumb) Porsche bullet connectors.  It is very difficult to solder into the hole in the end of the bullet connector.  I tinned the wire, and then coiled super thin stranded fluxed solder around the tinned wire, with as much solder as I could put and still fit it dry into the Porsche bullet.  Then I put the tip of the iron (as hot as mine goes) into the little hole at the small end of the bullet.  Once I could feel the wire start to get moveable, I knew the solder was melted and could release.  I found that a couple came loose as I was installing and had to be redone.  

Tin the lead. Fill the bullet with solder. Put the bullet into something to hold it (I use a pair of forceps) heat it until the solder is molten, then put the tinned lead in. Hold it until the solder sets.  Any other way you’ll probably get a cold solder joint, even if it does “stick.”

I can’t see the picture, but you must mean one of those little devices that holds the wire and the socket allowing you to hold the iron and the solder?  I have one, and I do use it.  It might be difficult to use under the dash, but, where there’s a will there’s a way.  I am moving my combo gauge from the right side of the tach to the left side, so some wires will have to be longer.  There is not adequate slack to just pull them.  As such, for some of the wires, I may just put in a new wire, or an extension.  That would allow me to solder the bullet out of the car and only to the joining fitting under the dash.  I’d prefer not to have the patch in the middle of the wire, but if it’s super clean and well protected, it should be OK.

Last edited by Teammccalla

Check to see if there isn’t a zip tie somewhere holding your wires.  Maybe you could get a few inches of play out of removing that.

Alternatively, you could make a small terminal block between your gauges and the wiring, giving you a bit of  “service loop.”



If you do just extend the wires, check out the solder butt splices discussed elsewhere.

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