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For sale Replica Porsche 356 Speedster rat rod.
High performance 2332 cc engine, twin Weber 48’s. and far too many improvements and special parts to list here. The best of some of the best parts, coatings, and techniques used in the engine. About 220 hp. Car is titled as a 1966 VW, that is from where its pan was sourced. Pan was purchased as a newly refurbished roller and shortened and powder coated locally. I have no idea of who built the body kit.  It is on an aluminum subframe, unlike most replicas.  356 rear quarter356 sideIMG_0569 [Large)IMG_0570 [Large)IMG_0576 [Large)IMG_0573 [Large)20160908_11005120160908_11010620160908_11011120160908_110051

Please note this car had never been driven as it sits today, the engine was driven for 6000 miles in my Spyder, so it is broken in and runs great.

The car is a NEW BUILD with a very lightly used engine. This car needs some wiring completed, most likely needs the Webers cleaned, everything tested for leaks and the like, and then enjoyed. I intended this to be a rat rod. If you are looking for a perfect car, this isn’t it. It would take a lot of work to make it into a hanger queen. I wanted a hot rod, and that is what this is…..a little work and it can be on the road terrorizing little old ladies driving their Smart cars and Prius hybrids.

I suspect this car could be on the road with 30 or 40 hours of work max, if you understand wiring systems and are comfortable working on same. Little expense was spared in building this car, wide 5 wheels, disk brakes, all new shocks, gaskets, brand new 0 mile performance transmission, powder coated wide 5 rims, on and on…..there is no top, I do have a carpet kit which would look horrible in a RAT.

I have a lengthy description of the engine and the car build, I have extensive photos of both builds. I can email to truly interested parties. The often asked question, “why don’t I finish it?” I lost interest and I have raft of other things to do.

1955 Other/Unknown(Roadster)

Attachments

Images (11)
  • 356 rear quarter
  • 356 side
  • IMG_0569 (Large)
  • IMG_0570 (Large)
  • IMG_0576 (Large)
  • IMG_0573 (Large)
  • 20160908_110051
  • 20160908_110106
  • 20160908_110111
  • IMG_0579 (Large)
  • P6020055
Last edited by tmpusfugit
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Older 1st generation DTM ---these were exhaustively tested to show that they truly are superior to the original cooling  fan housings for lowered temps.  My Type IV uses a DTM Stage IV and at 90 degrees ambient temps I never see  CHTs over 250 degrees.   Oil never gets over 180 degrees ----ever with the DTM and a Setrab single fan pack oil cooler.

I believe my head temps are on the low side of the scale because normal is usually defined as 325-375.  I guess cooler is better than hot  which is 400+ degrees,..

My DTM has done an excellent of keeping the heads and cylinders cool.  WIth the 914 oil cooler on the engine per the DTM recommendations, it does not  do a good job of keeping the oil cool.  I saw the oil temps hit over 250 at which time I  had to go with an external  cooler.....this engine does generate some serious heat when being pushed.  It has Nickies which seem very good at moving heat out of the heads.  I have to use the DTM as this engine uses one of the Hi Deck case which makes the engine a bit more than an inch wider than, so normal tin does not work.  I had to do some cutting of the DTM to get it to fit......but it does and it works 

 

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Images (3)
  • IM000259
  • IM000256
  • ce head

Stan, yes, LN Nickies and CSP Python in the 1 7/8" dia. size. The dry sump is not on the car right now, I have a high flow pump with a bypass cover on it now, the twin coolers for the dry sump and all the AN stainless and fittings are still on the car, and the dry sump can go back on in short order, I was planning to get the car underway before reinstalling the dry sump. 

Engine 5958 miles since new

Weber 86A Cam

Compression was kept fairly low (8:1) with possible turbocharging in mind.  Since I lacked traction with this engine without a turbo I did not pursue that option.

Dual Weber 48mm carbs

All engine steel parts cryogenic treated including cam, crank, all valve springs, all head bolts, rods, rod bolts piston wrist pins

Ported CB Performance Competition Eliminator heads, combustion chamber is ceramic coated as are  valves and exhaust ports. Dual springs, with Pauter billet roller rocker arms 1.4:1 ratio, roller tips also. These heads flow a lot of air and fuel.

JE Pistons forged dish tops (10cc dish) with ceramic coated tops and graphite coated skirts

Nikasil 94 mm cylinders by LN engineering

Ceramic lifters

H Rods, CB Performance  5.7” length

Aluminum pushrods,  aircooled.net double tapered

Serpentine belt drive

CB Performance 7mm high deck aluminum super case built for 94mm cylinders, with 10mm case savers and sand seal

ARP head bolts and rod bolts etc.10mm

Extra capacity oil pump (36mm) and bypass oil pump cover, Aircooled.net

Also available for engine AutoCraft dual dry sump oil pump

DTM cooling shroud

CB alternator with welded fan

CB Performance straight cut steel cam drive gears

Rod bearings Chevy 2”

4340 crankshaft from CB Performance nitrated with Chevy rod journals

Cam bearings, Gene Berg, dual thrust

Ignition is by MSD AL6 with new MSD distributor and coil

Flywheel is forged steel. Lightened, from CB Performance

Starter is new HiTorque, CB Performance

Battery is new Optima but it is now at least 6 or 7 years old so….

Fuel pump is new Carter electric mounted under gas tank

Exhaust is stainless steel 48mm Python by CSP brand new with J tubes also 48mm

CSP center pull carb linkage

The bearings are all Polydyne coated, the crank, case, and rods are all treated/coated with Oil Shed

The clutch is a new Kennedy Stage 2.

The engine has an Accusump to insure oil at higher RPM’s and in hard turns and the like.

I have a lot of photos of the engine under construction if there is interest on the part of serious lookers.

While the engine has an external oil filter, connected by an appropriate AN stainless hoses and fitting, it currently has a 914 oil cooler under the DTM shroud.  I have found that cooler insufficient to cool this engine in my 550. I suspect it will be the same in the Speedster body.  I have a new external oil cooler with fan that can be connected pretty readily.  The car is also set up for dry sump, it has 2 new oil coolers mounted behind the parking lights connected via AN stainless hoses.  I have a shop built oil tank as well as the Autocrafter dry sump pump and the hose to connect it up if you prefer to go that way. 

 

I'm not sure you all understand. That's a $12K engine back there. Maybe more. The Nickies are $4K(ish) all by themselves. We all go ape over A1 sidewinders, but a Python is truly equal length (a sidewinder isn't even close), and 1-7/8" is astronomically huge.

8:1 and an 86a means you could probably run it on Mexican gas (please don't), and I've never seen a car with Eliminators that I'd trust on the street-- but this one might be it. I'll bet the lil' Type 4 cooler can't keep up in Houston-- but twin oil coolers up front would be just the ticket with the dry-sump set-up. Bump this thing to 9:1 and listen to the sky tear in half.

I've got a twin-plug, dry-sumped, 2276, with coatings and 911 squirters, and I bow before this engine. You'd be 2x the ask easy trying to get to this point on your own.

Last edited by Stan Galat
Terry Nuckels posted:

Stan, buy it and put the engine in the bus. Take the 2110 and stick it in the speedorat and sell it. You know you want to...

Actually, I think I'd do something very, very similar to that-- but I so want the Nickies for the IM. Cima/Mahle would be plenty nice for the bus. The only issue is that I'd hate to break up such a nice set-up.

That mill.... my, oh my.

Stan, you are very correct there is over $12k in the engine alone.  Not to mention a bunch of work.  I did a lot of porting on the heads even though they were Comp Eliminators and then did the ceramic coatings.  The engine actually didn't seem to suffer from an easy breathing very large intake.  I did not have the Python on the engine when It was in the Spyder, for obvious reasons.  I have not run it with the Python.  But, I was operating on the premise that is a little bit is good a lot might just be real fun....Oh, I do have an earlier version of CB's electronic fuel injection setting on the shelf in case someone decides tuning Webers is too much trouble, me for instance..... 

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