Researsch on a Flared 356 Speedster

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I am wanting to build or purchase a Flared 356, but I'm not sure if it is too dificult to build or which companies are recomended by members, is there any recomended reading etc. for a complete beginer on a budget(student) who has only done oil changes?
Any and All input will be greatly appreciated.
Dean K.
Ontario, Canada

Check out my build page:

www.speedsterowners.com/build

Or click on the build a speedster link from the "Newest" tab.

Chris,

I noticed you are working on the body. The pictures are great but I am wondering if you are explaining in words anywhere what you are doing to prep the body. One of these days I will finally get around to painting and any help would be great.

Bruce, I finished painting my speedster a few weeks ago. after you have all the body work completed ( chips, repair any spider cracks, etc.) I made sure I had every necesary holes drilled in proper positions in the body,,, ( emblems light mounting holes, mirrors etc.) It's agood idea to make sure everything is mounted and fits where you want it prior to painting. You don't want to drill holes through the paint if you don't have to ( drilling will tend to splinter the cured paint).. when all the body work is satisfactory, and you have all the holes drilled, it's time to apply a primer. After sanding the body well with 320 grit wet or dry, Use a 2 part catalyzed urethane primer. They bond better to gel coats, and fibreglass. I put on abou 3-4 medium coats. then I sanded that with 400 grit until all surfaces were smooooooth. Again for your final color coats of paint I would recommend a catalyzed urethane enamel ( not a catalyzed acrylic enamel) The urethane has a harder, glossier finish. I then had the painter buff out the paint job to a high/smooth gloss. It turned out fantastic. I used to paint cars myself ( flame jobs, custom boat/motorcycle/ helmet stuff.
In the automotive/transportation sections of commercial bookstores they have many good instruction books on custom paint. Those books also have great tips on preparation.


Gclarke "The Vacaville Guy"

Actually I could use some help with the whole paint thing.

I have done quite a bit of research and reading. Local body shops really don't want to touch the car, or want to charge an arm and a leg to paint it. One option is to rent a paint booth and do it all myself. Problem is I need two different paint guns, moon suit breather for dealing with the toxic chemicals and of course all the different paints.

I figure if I do it myself it will cost about $2k when all is said and done.

What would be really nice is if I could find someone (like Gary) who has done this kind of thing before and has equipment and would be willing to share some knowledge and experience to a fellow hobbiest. Anyone know such a person in the greater Seattle area? Of course I would be willing to pay for such help.

So far 3 different shops have given me a ballpark of $6000 to paint the car and they say the biggest part of that is labor to "block" and "shape". Poey. I'll block and shape. You just squirt paint :)

I have read lots of books on painting, and so far what I have been doing, which seems to be backed up by Gary's comments above, is to get all the major dings and surface scratches patched up and smoothed out. I got some fiberglass patch stuff from the local Wesco paint supply shop for this. Then I'm making sure I have all the holes drilled in the body in the correct spots. This includes making some minor cuts to the inside of the front trunk lid to accomodate for my 16 gal tank. Plus I had to make a notch in the inside edge of the deck lid because my right carb was a little close and the lid would not quite close.

It also means cutting the holes for the front bumper. I also had to modify the front bumper brakets to fit around my front sway bar. (I'll post pictures of this later. I seem to remember seeing pictures of someone else who had to do this).

I have also gone over the whole body and roughed up the gelcoat, which one of the books said was a good idea with fiberglass. At the moment I'm using a 4x4 electric palm sander. Is there something different which I should be using at this point? Also using 100grit.

As for the rest of the paint writeup, I will get to that once I'm done, which at the current rate will be about march. I have everything else up to this point done for those interested who have not looked at my build writups in a while.

So, all you paint experts, bring on the knowledge for Bruce and myself and any others nearing the paint part of their projects!

Thanks all!

Chris

Chris feel free to call me, wednesday eve might be best 707-449-0468.
I actually painted my speedster, but without a booth, I had a couple of water condensation drops, and a couple of boogies that I just wasn't happy with. Sooooo
I went to all the painters in my town ( about 9 different paint shops) My deal was that....#1 the car was already stripped of body stuff (they would not need to remove any chrome, emblems, knobs , handles....nothin) so there was no need for general masking
#2 I had already primed the car, and painted 3 coats of base, and sanded the whole thing perfectly with 400 grit. #3 all they needed to mask was the cockpit, and cover the engine, and tires. #4 I would tow the car into their shop.

The highest bid I got was 2,500.00, and when I complained that after All the work I had done, all they had to do was squirt, and rub it out, he said "OH I misunderstood $1,800.00. I smirked and continued to look.
The guy that I chose had a small shop, and used another guys booth on the o;pposite side of the building. I checked back 4 days later to see if he was done yet, He hadn't started yet, but sitting next to my speedster was a authentic ferrarri testarosa, 2 corvettes, and a custom hot rod. He told me he had contracts with 2 ferrari shops in San francisco, and marin County ( both over 60 miles away).
I thought, hey if the ferrarri guys can trust him......so can I.

He charged me $487.00, that covered the cost of paint, squirting it, and buffing and polishing the final paint job. Some show car guy Might be able to find a flaw, but I can't. I considered it a great deal.....not a steal( $200.00 would have been a steal) So shop, take polaroids Of the car stripped/primed), interview, and dicker. Even if you insult a guy, you can always go back and tell him he was the best painter you found, and you were just learning.



Gclarke

I agree with Gary........there are some really good guys out there who won't charge you an arm and a leg to squirt your car. Trouble is, they can be pretty hard to find. If you have any friends of friends who have street rods (or there are some local cruisin nights or meets you can go to), ask them where they got theirs done or if they've heard of any really good, but inexpensive guys around doing that. Then go check out their work and talk with them about the job and don't be afraid to haggle with them. Also DON'T tell them that they can take their time on it - it'll be in their waiting shop for months!! Work out a schedule and check on them regularly during the work (but don't become a pita!) to make sure (1.) that they're progressing to schedule and (2.) that nothing problematic has come up. I remember going over when mine was being "blocked and shaped" and saw how much they had to do just to get bubble out of the cowl above the engine cover and then shape it and the cover to match. I never would have had the patience for that!

In New England, the going rate for a weekend-meet-class paint job seems to be about $5K including pre-and-post paint prep for, say, 3-6 coats of color and 2-3 coats of clear. Metallics are harder, since they'll need 2 - 5 coats of base color, 2 - 4 coats of the metallic and 2 - 3 coats of clear, and it all adds up. Solid colors take less time and coats and cost less (but are less flashy!)

One guy nearby has a '50 Merc with well over $30K in the paint and it looks it. Then there's the kid across town, five years out of Vo-Tech High School, who does INCREDIBLE work, especially the pre-paint prep, same progression as above on Metallics, produces unbelievably good results and gets $1,500 over the cost of the paint.

They're out there, but you have to dig to find 'em. Try finding your local VO-Tech with a body work course and asking the instructors who they would recommend of their past students - some of those guys are terrific.

gn

Thanks guys. Gary, I might call you tomorrow night.

One problem I have up north here is it's a little cold to be painting a car in your garage during the winter...

Great shot Chris!

Yeah.....is that guy in the picture who you're gonna have paint it for you? I think he'd rather be out sledding.............

gn

That's my 18 month old daughter. She likes to paint, but she is a little sloppy at the moment. Maybe in about 20 years I'll let her paint her own car.