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Phil,

 

As you found out the installation framework for the DIN on your RS stereo is not the same as the Clarion.  The DIN opening size is the only thing that is universal.  After you remove the Clarion from the opening, using a set of "keys" that came with the Clarion, you'll see that there is an aluminum frame that was inserted into the cutout and secured with some tabs that fold over and hold the frame in place.

 

If you don't have the "keys" for removing the Clarion look on Youtube and you'll see how to make your own keys from a coat hanger.  Just type in "How do I Remove a DIN Stereo".  Once you have the DIN frame out you'll put in your new DIN frame.  Your wiring will not be plug and play because all of the manufacturers use their own plugs. However the color of the wiring is generally universal.  Red is positive, black is ground, yellow is constant power, orange is power that turns on an amplifier (I think those are the colors) , brown is a speaker wire, etc.

 

You can double check the colors by removing your speakers and seeing what colors are on the speaker terminals.  Write down the colors to each speaker keeping in mind there is a positive and a negative on the speaker terminals.  This is important because if you cross these wires the speakers will play but the sound will be muddy.

 

If you are using an amplifier the only good way to connect it is with RCA cables and the power wire from the stereo head unit that will turn on the power to the amp so you won't need a separate switch to turn it on.  This is usually the wire that runs a powered antennae. There is also another power wire that goes to the head unit that runs the internal memory for the clock, preset stations, and the sound settings etc.

 

If you want to buy a plug for the Retrosound check www.crutchfield.com they are the largest online retailer for electronics and they may have one. That way you can have the RS plug that attaches to the stereo and a separate plug that you wire all your connections to and these two plugs mate up so you can remove the stereo later without cutting wires.

 

An amplifier is really the only way to run your speakers.  Speakers aren't ruined by too much power they get ruined through distortion which is usually caused by not enough power. The 4X50 power rating that is advertised on a lot of head units is dubious at best and should be ignored.

 

Quality sound can be achieved in these Speedsters even with the top down.  It just takes more power and better equipment.  For those that disagree, you haven't ridden in my Speedster. You feel all of the bass notes and you can tell which instruments each of the high notes come from. I drive with and without my music depending on what I'm doing. Often you will see my wife and I singing along at the top of our voices when our favorite songs are playing.

 

 

Thanks Robert. Great advice. Don't think I have an amp.

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Last edited by 550 Phil

If you do have an amp it could be under the dash or built into the head. 

That means your wiring is probably all in the front area and you might have to locate the amp under the seat and run a cable to the front for the speaker connections and at the same time run a sub woofer RCA dual connection cable. 

Did you buy the 4x50 amp with the retrosound head?   Ray 

Obviously large unit is the VW ECU for my modern water cooled engine.  Small thing with the MMP on it says its a Tach converter.  Don't know what the white box is but its not an amp.  I do not have a separate amp or subwoofer and don't plan to install one at this time.  Head unit is 4 x 45 watts.  If I don't have enough sound after I install the head unit I'll look at adding an amp and a subwoofer.   Right now just going to install the radio and see how it performs. 

Phil, you must have 6 speakers in your car. 2 front, 2 rear seat and 2 tweeters.  

 

I was under the impression that is was 4x25...is this the unit you purchased?   http://www.retrosound.com/product-p/model-two.htm

 

My set up is a model Two head and 4 channel amp putting out 

  • 45 watts x 4 channels 

  http://www.retrosound.com/product-p/1950-54-quad4.htm

 

My problem is that I have a S/N hearing loss and at speed I find I need a bit more volume which is why I plan on installing the sub woofer a very small self powered unit they make that they claim only adds colour to the bottom end and is not boomy. 

http://www.retrosound.com/product-p/hot-sub-8100.htm

 

Anyway, hope it helps you ...Ray 

Yes that is the one I bought from Crutchfield.  It is listed as:

built-in amplifier (25 watts RMS/45 peak x 4 channels)...whatever that means.  I just want something that looks better.  If I can't hear it I'll deal with that later and likely add more power and maybe a subwoofer.  I listen to the stereo when I'm top down at low speeds and when I have top up or hard top on at any speed.  Got to remember that I have hard top on for 6 months and drive in all weather.

 

Current Clarion owners manual says its power is 18 watts RMS x4.  Does that mean retrosound is more powerful.  I don't know.  If it has as much power as the clarion I should be ok.

Last edited by 550 Phil
Originally Posted by Fear the Yorkie! Phil IM356D:

Do you think that amp would fit under dash?  Would be a lot easier to install.

 

Wow that thing is small.  Think it would definitely fit under dash.  Nice find Ray.  Other than power connection the amp is a plug and play. 

It will most definitely fit under the dash.  Mine did and it's a lot larger than that.  I drilled and tapped a couple holes along the steel support bar under the dash and mounted it there.

Originally Posted by Fear the Yorkie! Phil IM356D:
Ready to do wiring. There are some extra wires for clarion radio harness not present on RS harness. There is a  brown wire, an orange wire and an extra yellow wire. Should I just leave extra wires unattached?

Phil,

 

Calrion uses standard wiring colors for their stereos so the colors are as follows:

 

Not every unit will have all of the wires listed but here's what you can expect.


SPEAKERS:
White = Left Front +
White/Black = Left Front –

Gray = Right Front +
Gray/Black = Right Front –

Green = Left Rear +
Green/Black = Left Rear-

Violet = Right Rear +
Violet/Black = Right Rear –

POWER/ACCESSORY:
Yellow 14ga = Battery Main/Memory
Yellow 18ga = Battery Power/Memory
Red = Accessory (ignition on)
Black = Ground
Blue = Antenna Turn On +
Blue/White = Remote Turn On (amps) +
Orange/White = Dimmer
Brown = Phone Mute
Orange or Mint Green= Parking Brake Video Lockout
White/Red = CCD (camera) input instant on +

RCA Cables:
Gray = Front Output
Black = Rear Output
Purple = Non-Fade or Subwoofer Output

Robert

Thanks.  Wiring done.  RS fired right up.  Bluetooth easy to hook up.  Only thing that I did not like is that the power antenna stayed up all the time the stereo was on even when I was listening to USB or bluetooth.  I disconnected the blue wire completely which raises the antenna.  I never listen to radio anyway.  Hope to finish final install tomorrow night.  Liking RS so far.

Originally Posted by Fear the Yorkie! Phil IM356D:

Robert

Thanks.  Wiring done.  RS fired right up.  Bluetooth easy to hook up.  Only thing that I did not like is that the power antenna stayed up all the time the stereo was on even when I was listening to USB or bluetooth.  I disconnected the blue wire completely which raises the antenna.  I never listen to radio anyway.  Hope to finish final install tomorrow night.  Liking RS so far.

Glad to hear that.  I'm not sure why the antenna won't go down when using USB, generally it's automatic.  If you want to you could always just hook up a toggle switch up under the dash. 

Hi Phil been away for a few days ... My mic is under the eyebrow but at times I feel if I could pull it like my kitchen faucet it would work better with the top down and at speed ...I even thought of having a lapel or single ear piece wired or not at times becAuse you can hear them but they cannot hear your speech.
Even the visor would work .... Just thinking out loud. Ray

Bob all of the above.  Most of the time I'm streaming so my phone is in my pocket.  I also use this in daily driver.  But in my daily driver I tell my phone what to do.  Call home.  Call pizza.  Call hospital.  All hands free.

Remember, I drive my IM year round and for 6 months with hard top on and windows up.  System will probably be a bit more practical for me than someone in a a fair weather speedy.

Imagine in 1957 you showed up at the Local Sports Car Races with all that stuff in your Speedster? They'd look at like you like you came from another Planet! The WHOLE point of the Speedster was to be a stripped down, NO non sense, pure race car just barely streetable! Speedsters didn't even come with a Tac or heater (they were an Option (but NO Speedster ever was delivered without them) loading up a near race car with Radio, AirConditioning and God knows what else is like taking a Hummer H2 and showing up to an SCCA race day! LoL Hey each to their own, but it just seems really funny that anyone would do some of the things I see on here! If you want comfort buy a Convertable D replica that was meant to be comfy and have soft cushy seats, roll up windows, radio and YES even in 1958 you could get Air conditioning in your "D"! I bet you guys who do that also jog 10 miles a day with a Boom Box strapped to your back and cup holder on your arm and oh I for got the cell phone strap on your other arm! Don't get mad it's JUST a good Humored jab at the NEED for "Modern Convenience". I just get in my Speedster and roar off knowing I probably could not hear my cell phone in my pocket, nor a radio (if I had one) over the engine and wind, and you know that's how the Speedster was MEANT to be! 

Done. Streaming music. And yes it is the perfect green. And yes it is a conv D. And yes I just called my wife hands free. And I might go out and crank my water cooled heat. And after owning 2 brutally fast and raw spyders I kind of like my luxurious completely weatherproof conv D. Will I ever trade in my conv D for another spyder. Hell no. But I know what you mean and I appreciate it. I even crave it. So one day I just might add a spyder to the stable. But I'm keeping my civilized conv D.

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Hey Phil, that looks really good. I like the green lights ... did you change those?  I think I have the same instruments as Marty and I find the lights dim a bit thinking of adding LED's but them I need to add a PWM - pulse with modulation to be able to dim them. There are many colour choices from Europe for LED's ... where did you install the amplifier?  Ray 

 

p.s. man i wish I could drive all year like you. 

Last edited by IaM-Ray

With the RS model 2 there are almost an infinite number of color combinations for face.  It gives you the primary colors and allows you to add or subtract more red or blue etc.  So if you want a purple face you just add even amounts of red and blue.  Kind of clever.  If also allows you to pick dimmer primary colors.  I don't think the face plate dims when you turn on lights.  So far I'm pretty impressed.  Sounds ok to me but I'm not a big music guy.  I have ordered the amp.  We'll see.  My wife is out of town.  When she gets back its hard top time.  Its definitely a 2 person job.  I'll really be able to test the tunes with the hard top on.

Just to complete the thread.  Went on a long drive yesterday including cruising at low 60's with top down.  RS definitely sounds BETTER than my clarion.  Not a lot of bass but good mid range and treble.  I've got a 3.88 with stock gearing so car gets pretty loud over 70.  I drive mostly 55mph back roads anyway.  Over 70mph wind noise is so loud I don't think I would listen to any stereo at any volume level.  Amplifier comes in mail next week.  Think I'll install it.  Looks pretty easy to install and will optimize my tunes.  I doubt I would have ordered the amp if I had heard the RS unit first.  Maybe I'll report one more time after amp is installed.  At this point I love my teutonic blaupunkt look alike RS. 

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