Ride Height Adjustment

Most likely also measure with normal driver's weight in front seat.

Is this car a CMC?

^^What Greg said^^. If you're going to the trouble of leveling the car, do it with weight in the driver's seat. And it does sound like the rear torsion bars are not set up exactly the same and the builder made up for it with the spring plate adjusters. Not the best way to do it, but it does work, I guess...

If you go to the trouble of readjusting the rear bars, consider taking the adjustable spring plates out and replacing them with stock pieces. Once you get the ride height you want you'll never touch them again, they're way overbuilt for a street car (especially a < 2,000lb Speedster) and they're really, REALLY heavy. It'll be a good winter project. Al 

Just to add .....I found most of these chassis are not assemble with detail. Best thing is to remove bolt side torsion bars and re clock them. Then use the adjustable spring plates to fine tune it.ALB is right on about putting weight in the drivers seat when doing a final adjustment..

Thanks guys

The reason for my inquiry, about being a CMC.  Was to suggest, that butt sag can be the source of different road to wheel well height measurements.

Art

The car is a Beck that was shipped as a kit to Duke's Garage in Colorado for assembly. 

Well it certainly won't have butt sag. Enjoy your car!

Art

I'd contact Carey at Special Edition about your car.  I know they've had problems with some companies that built and sold their cars.  It does sound like the spring plates were not put on the same splines.  It's kind of a pain to get the spring plate off, but that's the best solution.

I would set your adjusters on both side to about the middle of their range, and then do this:

https://www.speedsterowners.com...rear-ride-height--vw

I drove the car a little bit and the suspension settled .  I had to raise the driver's side from 20" to 21" to match the passenger side.  They adjusters are off a little, but not as bad as I originally thought.

Excellent!