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ride height and suspension tuning

H hoghead
I need to import the parts necessary for my wife's VW based Speedster and must make sure I have it right as it is an expensive one shot deal. As such I would appreciate your input on the suspension design.

I have searched the archives and still do not have a definitive answer on how much lowering is required to achieve the classic stance using a classic body. Anyone have an answer on this?

What I think I know:
FRONT
1. Use dropped spindles and adjusters on both beams to fine tune the spring rate and final height. The spindles give me 2 - 2.5 inches using the lowered (really raised) spindles while maintaining the stock geometry and ride characteristics. Any more comes from the beam at the expense of ride quality

Lowered ball joints, shorter shocks, and lowered sway bars will not be required with this approach - is this correct?
Depends on the initial question of how much lowering is required

2. Install a 19mm front sway bar. Standard or lowered version?

3. Order 2 sets of castor shims just to be sure

4. Flipping the tie rod ends should not be required unless going very low but this goes back once again to how much lowering is required

5. Order the camber adjustment eccentric bushings just to be sure

REAR:
Lower the rear using the spline/spring plate technique described by Gordon Nichols in tech notes. Adjstable spring plates are nice for fine tuning and cutting down the endless fiddling but not necessary - having said that it seems an easy route to me.

Depending on how much the rear is lowered there may be an issue with camber and may be compensated by flipping and reversing L&R the trailing arms. Back again to how much lowering is required for the stock stance

I am IRS, so just install a 19mm (adjustable preferred) rear sway bar.

Urethane bushings all around

Any and all comments would be greatly appreciated
1957 CMC(Speedster)
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H hoghead
I need to import the parts necessary for my wife's VW based Speedster and must make sure I have it right as it is an expensive one shot deal. As such I would appreciate your input on the suspension design.

I have searched the archives and still do not have a definitive answer on how much lowering is required to achieve the classic stance using a classic body. Anyone have an answer on this?

What I think I know:
FRONT
1. Use dropped spindles and adjusters on both beams to fine tune the spring rate and final height. The spindles give me 2 - 2.5 inches using the lowered (really raised) spindles while maintaining the stock geometry and ride characteristics. Any more comes from the beam at the expense of ride quality

Lowered ball joints, shorter shocks, and lowered sway bars will not be required with this approach - is this correct?
Depends on the initial question of how much lowering is required

2. Install a 19mm front sway bar. Standard or lowered version?

3. Order 2 sets of castor shims just to be sure

4. Flipping the tie rod ends should not be required unless going very low but this goes back once again to how much lowering is required

5. Order the camber adjustment eccentric bushings just to be sure

REAR:
Lower the rear using the spline/spring plate technique described by Gordon Nichols in tech notes. Adjstable spring plates are nice for fine tuning and cutting down the endless fiddling but not necessary - having said that it seems an easy route to me.

Depending on how much the rear is lowered there may be an issue with camber and may be compensated by flipping and reversing L&R the trailing arms. Back again to how much lowering is required for the stock stance

I am IRS, so just install a 19mm (adjustable preferred) rear sway bar.

Urethane bushings all around

Any and all comments would be greatly appreciated
FM Former Member
Hi Rob,

I have fitted sway away adjusters to my ball joint beam, and had lowered it about 2.5", I have since raised the front by 1/2", as the ride was so hard. I'm using bugpack short shocks also.

I'm not totally convinced this is the best way to do it, as now I think dropped spindles would be better as they enable stock geometry to be retained,which I think should give a more supple ride.

However dropped spindles push the track out 1/2" each side, so for me I would like to combine them with a 2" narrowed beam. I think that should, when using 165 tyres give the "look".

On the rear I went for adustable spring plates (swing axle), and am really happy with the results, Its nice just to be able to fine tune the heights easily.
H hoghead
Sounds like the dropped spindles will give the right amount of lowering.

I am currently thinking of using dropped spindles, and adjusters on both beams just to have that final ability to fine tuning the height if required. I have not yet decided whether to handle the increase in track width by moving the wheel centres to change offset, or narrowing the beam while I am installing the adjusters.
The offset change is attractive, as I can fine tune it when all built and the body on, while the beam narrowing is a bit more problematic during the build process.

Did you drop the rear by 2.5" as well?
FM Former Member
It would be a bit of a guess on the amount the rear is lowered, I reckon 2"-2.5" is about correct. It took me couple of attempts to get the car sitting right, which really is no trouble. Having adjustable plates makes fine tuning a breeze.
On the front, fitting adjusters in the beam and narrowing it at the same time would make sense. I'm not sure about adjusting the track by changing the wheel offset. That sounds like a pro job to me. On my car the tires get pretty close to the body when the steering is on full lock, hence why I am going down the narrowed beam route
WOLFGANGWOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member
I have old (but new) 165x15 Michelin XZX on front on Porsche 914 2L Fuchs with std disc spindle (not dropped) - using beam with 2 adjusters at top&bottom. I currently have a 1/4" spacer so the wheels clear the calipers (just hit them barely). I probably will go with 1/2" spacers --- the wheels just seem to sit too far into the front wheel opening. I think the size and offset of wheels you use will determine if the front has to be narrowed. Close to stock sizes (165 and 5.5 rims) I'd think you'll be adding spacers in front (you may need them to clear the calipers or the tie rod ends anyhow).
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