Wasn't there a thread not long back about the right hand mirror actually being a leftie just altered a bit? I can't find the posts now that I'm ready to go forward...directions pleeze & tankyou
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Wasn't there a thread not long back about the right hand mirror actually being a leftie just altered a bit? I can't find the posts now that I'm ready to go forward...directions pleeze & tankyou
Paul: Yup, they're both the same and lefties. The right needs to be altered to swing far enough to let you "see" correctly.
Simply remove just the mirror itself from the right side mount, leaving the mount attached to the car. You'll see that the mirror has a ball-fitting on the back side (opposite to the glass) which fits into a corresponding cup on the mount. The back of the mirror interferes with the lip of the cup as you swing it over to line up down the right side of the car.
Holding the mirror in place in the cup once the screw is removed should allow you to see where material should be removed on the cup lip to allow the mirror to swing more toward the left.
Use a Dremel tool with a heavy duty cut-off wheel fitted to gently "massage" the drivers side of the cup to remove a little of the material from the lip. This should allow the mirror to be moved farther to the left and let you adjust it properly. Don't get wild with that Dremel! Just take your time and remove a little material at a time, re-fitting the mirror between tries to see how it lines up and how the "line" of the cup fits against the back of the mirror. If done right, it should allow you to see down the side of the car nicely, and the lip of the cup should be contoured to the back of the mirror. If you're good with that Dremel, it'll look like it was supposed to be trimmed that way!
Gordon
Simply remove just the mirror itself from the right side mount, leaving the mount attached to the car. You'll see that the mirror has a ball-fitting on the back side (opposite to the glass) which fits into a corresponding cup on the mount. The back of the mirror interferes with the lip of the cup as you swing it over to line up down the right side of the car.
Holding the mirror in place in the cup once the screw is removed should allow you to see where material should be removed on the cup lip to allow the mirror to swing more toward the left.
Use a Dremel tool with a heavy duty cut-off wheel fitted to gently "massage" the drivers side of the cup to remove a little of the material from the lip. This should allow the mirror to be moved farther to the left and let you adjust it properly. Don't get wild with that Dremel! Just take your time and remove a little material at a time, re-fitting the mirror between tries to see how it lines up and how the "line" of the cup fits against the back of the mirror. If done right, it should allow you to see down the side of the car nicely, and the lip of the cup should be contoured to the back of the mirror. If you're good with that Dremel, it'll look like it was supposed to be trimmed that way!
Gordon
I'm the one that broached this subject a few months ago and as we speak I am "massaging" the cup a little at a time. I think I'm about halfway there. Easy does it as I don't want to buy a new mirror. Paul, you will probably beat me, we'll compare notes at Knotts.
Bruce
Bruce
Could a raised incert be made to create a passager mirror kit. it sure would make a neater job, than breaking the chrome And dye grinding the socket? That will be another part back to the platers
Barry,
Good idea. I never thought of that. Guess it is too late for me but others with this problems could investigate Barry's proposition.
Bruce
Good idea. I never thought of that. Guess it is too late for me but others with this problems could investigate Barry's proposition.
Bruce
And all this time I only used the right mirror for looks as I could not see out of it! Go figure.
I had plained to put my mirrors out on the fenders like many do. The passenger works as is on the fender. And they shouldnt change if some boob slamed the door then.
During the test fit I noticed the passager mirror problem. I would rather have them on the doors, like porsche did them.
And closer to me, so my old peepers can see them better.
What do you guys think.
During the test fit I noticed the passager mirror problem. I would rather have them on the doors, like porsche did them.
And closer to me, so my old peepers can see them better.
What do you guys think.
The closer the mirror is to your eyes the bigger the field of view is. Eddie
Wouldn't the side curtains partially obscure the mirror if it was on the door? Especially if the plastic curtain started getting gunky. Just asking. Bruce
Bruce,
Barry is building the one and only Vintage Convertible D, and has fabricated his own rollups.
Barry,
I'd put them in the stock location if it were me.
Barry is building the one and only Vintage Convertible D, and has fabricated his own rollups.
Barry,
I'd put them in the stock location if it were me.
I put the curtains in place and didn't experience too much visibility drama. Of course fogged up and rainy could add a degree of difficulty to the field of view, but I should have the garage roof fixed soon.
Is there some contortionist requirements to putting the right hand mirror on the door or near door cowling? Special right-handed tools?
I'm ready to start drilling holes and shredding fibreglas...
Is there some contortionist requirements to putting the right hand mirror on the door or near door cowling? Special right-handed tools?
I'm ready to start drilling holes and shredding fibreglas...
Paul,
I installed my mirrors on the doors. It does get a bit tight up in that corner, mostly requires patience. Think about using fender washers and locknuts on the inside to provide a stable base for the mirror. Make sure you have enough rear visibility adjustment from the drivers's seat before drilling. Also, need to assure there is enough room for washers and nuts on the inside before drilling.
I installed my mirrors on the doors. It does get a bit tight up in that corner, mostly requires patience. Think about using fender washers and locknuts on the inside to provide a stable base for the mirror. Make sure you have enough rear visibility adjustment from the drivers's seat before drilling. Also, need to assure there is enough room for washers and nuts on the inside before drilling.
Attachments
Images (1)
Thanks Eddie, you made up my mind,I want it as safe as possible On the doors they go. Looks like I have a adapter to make .
Thanks Stan for reminding the folks of my speedster D, which is what they did call the prototype car in late 57, that was built off of a speedster.
I was begining to think, everyone had forgot what I did.
I said it before I say it again . Just buy a IM if you can afford it. It did turn out well, But it was alot work,fighting it into shape. I've seen tore up corrvettes that were not nearly as fussy.
Of course Im very stubborn, (or just plain nuts?) but I can't afford a IM.
Thanks Stan for reminding the folks of my speedster D, which is what they did call the prototype car in late 57, that was built off of a speedster.
I was begining to think, everyone had forgot what I did.
I said it before I say it again . Just buy a IM if you can afford it. It did turn out well, But it was alot work,fighting it into shape. I've seen tore up corrvettes that were not nearly as fussy.
Of course Im very stubborn, (or just plain nuts?) but I can't afford a IM.
I noticed that Bruce is running the Talbot mirrors. Not being a pro Its hard to tell if they are the early or late with the green plastic emblems
Mine are the early Ponto Stabil type, or at least a close copy.
I think the screw in the socket mount is different than factory.
Mine have a thing with 4 holes that you incert a tool to tighten the sockets, most likey aftermarket. but that's what came with the kitcar.
Mine are the early Ponto Stabil type, or at least a close copy.
I think the screw in the socket mount is different than factory.
Mine have a thing with 4 holes that you incert a tool to tighten the sockets, most likey aftermarket. but that's what came with the kitcar.
You know, looking at my right side mirror (after I went to the trouble of Dremeling the mount), you should be able to place a cup-style spacer between the mirror "ball" and the "socket" in the mounting stand. Looks like a 1/2 inch diameter cup spacer of some sort should just about do it, almost like a small suction cup (like on a small dart). That would push the "ball" outward, away from the socket and allow more mirror travel without relieving the socket rim (and without removing the chrome plating).
I'll poke around in the shop tomorrow and see what I can come up with and then report back.
gn
I'll poke around in the shop tomorrow and see what I can come up with and then report back.
gn
For something completely different (my outlaw isn't very original to start with) I installled a convex mirror from a tournament water ski boat for the windshield mounted mirror. It gives you an excellent field of rear vision covering all three lanes (left, your lane and right) of following traffic. The trick is to not believe the distance to surrounding vehicles. It works great for "awareness", then check your side mirrors for distance or just swivel your head for a look see. After getting used to it, I wouldn't be without it. Side benefit, you can actually see the smile on your own face as you drive!
Did you also install the Skier tow-line attach point at the top of your roll bar? Make one hell of a skate board tow vehicle!
Thanks Gordon,
My mirrors are still boxed up, out in the shop. I have forgot the exzact shape of their internal parts.
If what your saying will work, try pinging a stainless washer of apropriate size into bowel shape, that matches the ball of the swivel..
See if that will work. Im hoping we may have a simple neat cure here.
Cross your fingers!!
My mirrors are still boxed up, out in the shop. I have forgot the exzact shape of their internal parts.
If what your saying will work, try pinging a stainless washer of apropriate size into bowel shape, that matches the ball of the swivel..
See if that will work. Im hoping we may have a simple neat cure here.
Cross your fingers!!
Passenger-side Aero-style Mirror adjustment (assuming that a spacer is the right way to go):
Parts needed:
(1.) I looked in my local hardware store and found some small, 3/4" outer diameter, clear suction cups used for hanging small things on glass surfaces (National N259-937 V2524). You'll also need a 10/32 X 3/4" pan-head screw with captive star washer - get it in Stainless Steel, if possible, and check it against the threads of the threaded receptacle on the back of your mirror (yours may be metric).
Change Process:
2. On the suction cup, I cut off the "nub" where the metal hook mounts to the cup, and punched a hole in the center of the cup with a paper hole punch (single hole version - I use them for punching clean holes in gasket material). The hole size depends on the size of the threaded part of the back of your mirror - your size may vary - mine was about 21/64'ths. You have now created a "spacer".
3. With scissors, carefully cut a small cresent off one side of the spacer rim to allow the mirror clearance in one direction - max width of about 1/8" (see photo)
4. Push the cup over the threaded thingy on the back of your mirror, concave side to mirror, and align the removed cresent side with the Drivers side of the mirror when assembled to the mount.
5. Use that new Stainless screw you bought to re-assemble the mirror to the mount. You may have to Dremel off some of the length of the screw to make it all fit right, depending on the thickness of the suction cup "spacer" you have.
6. Lightly tighten and adjust your mirror to sight down the side of your car, or where-ever you feel comfortable. Once "dialed in", tighten a bit more to lock it in place (you know the drill, here.....don't over-tighten!!).
The benefit of the clear suction cup material is that it is soft and allows movement until tightened, and almost becomes invisible when everything is assembled together. It'll also act as a seal against water and dust getting inside your mirror.
Hope this helps!
Gordon (a.k.a., McGyver)
Parts needed:
(1.) I looked in my local hardware store and found some small, 3/4" outer diameter, clear suction cups used for hanging small things on glass surfaces (National N259-937 V2524). You'll also need a 10/32 X 3/4" pan-head screw with captive star washer - get it in Stainless Steel, if possible, and check it against the threads of the threaded receptacle on the back of your mirror (yours may be metric).
Change Process:
2. On the suction cup, I cut off the "nub" where the metal hook mounts to the cup, and punched a hole in the center of the cup with a paper hole punch (single hole version - I use them for punching clean holes in gasket material). The hole size depends on the size of the threaded part of the back of your mirror - your size may vary - mine was about 21/64'ths. You have now created a "spacer".
3. With scissors, carefully cut a small cresent off one side of the spacer rim to allow the mirror clearance in one direction - max width of about 1/8" (see photo)
4. Push the cup over the threaded thingy on the back of your mirror, concave side to mirror, and align the removed cresent side with the Drivers side of the mirror when assembled to the mount.
5. Use that new Stainless screw you bought to re-assemble the mirror to the mount. You may have to Dremel off some of the length of the screw to make it all fit right, depending on the thickness of the suction cup "spacer" you have.
6. Lightly tighten and adjust your mirror to sight down the side of your car, or where-ever you feel comfortable. Once "dialed in", tighten a bit more to lock it in place (you know the drill, here.....don't over-tighten!!).
The benefit of the clear suction cup material is that it is soft and allows movement until tightened, and almost becomes invisible when everything is assembled together. It'll also act as a seal against water and dust getting inside your mirror.
Hope this helps!
Gordon (a.k.a., McGyver)
Gordon Nichols aka...."McGiver!" Nice job! Alan M.
Very nice Job. NEAT.
I dug out the mirrors and gave this trick a try. It worked perfect
Thanks folks!!
Thanks folks!!
Gordon,
I'm a Big Bird guy. Your Pictures painted it all out for me clearly... thanks a million.
Jim
I'm a Big Bird guy. Your Pictures painted it all out for me clearly... thanks a million.
Jim
I just did it without the benefit of Gord's photos (they've been removed from his folder); probably not as cleanly or nicely (I found some gray cups laying around my junk bin instead of clear ones and they were larger so I had to trim them too). I found that by trimming them just right I could get by using the mirror's original fastener instead of having to get a longer stainless steel screw.