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Had more than a bit of trouble the other night. Pulling into a parking space, I noticed a ticking sound and a slight miss, both symptoms of a bent push rod. Babied it home after dinner. The tick and miss seemed to come and go, but I noticed a definite loss of power, also consistent with a bent push rod. 

Pulled the driver's side valve cover the next morning, found the spring washer and keeper for the #3 intake rocker had failed, allowing the rocker arm to move rearward and damage the valve. See attached photos.

So the engine is out of the car and the left head is off. This is the same head that has an odd thread repair stuck to the #3 spark plug, so I'd like to replace it if I can figure out exactly what it is and buy one that matches. Here's what I know:

     1. A Google search of the casting numbers didn't yield anything useful. 
     2. Other than what's shown in the photos, there are no other identifying marks.
     3. Cylinder bore measures 90.5 mm.
     4. As near as I can tell, intake valves measure 40 mm, exhaust valves 35.5.

Also, I'm not impressed with the rocker arm design. This build isn't that old, the cylinders measure no appreciable wear and I can still see some of the hone marks. I have pictures from when I adjusted the valve lash last September, nothing appears to be out of place. Why the spring washer and keeper failed is a mystery to me. Can someone shed light on this, is this a common failure mode?

I'm thinking of going to an aftermarket rocker arrangement to avoid future failures. Does anyone have a favorite design, and if so, what are its merits? 

Thanks in advance for your advice,
Eric

 

Left Head 060718#3 Intake Valve Damage 060718Broken Spring Washer and ClipLeft Head with Valve DamageLeft Head UndersideLeft Cylinders

57 CMC widebody, 1776, Dell 40s, IRS, 4 wheel discs, 18" Boyds, 225/35/18

Attachments

Images (6)
  • Left Head 060718
  • #3 Intake Valve Damage 060718
  • Broken Spring Washer and Clip
  • Left Head with Valve Damage
  • Left Head Underside
  • Left Cylinders
Original Post

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The stock clips and wavy washers/spacers are barely adequate for a stock engine driven as intended (strictly transportation), but it's not uncommon for this type of failure in even a stock engine with dual carbs and header exhaust, and that's why bolted rocker shafts with solid spacers were invented. Have a read- 

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=6_196_2787

Then have a look at- 

http://www.geneberg.com/produc...&products_id=364

There are other companies that make bolt together rocker shafts, but for the price, the Berg assembly is the best in the business. Al

PS- I know it looks bad, but are you sure the retainer and keeper are damaged enough that they can't be run as is?

Forgot to ask- did the pushrod survive?

 

Last edited by ALB
ALB posted:

The stock clips and wavy washers/spacers are barely adequate for a stock engine driven as intended (strictly transportation), but it's not uncommon for this type of failure in even a stock engine with dual carbs and header exhaust, and that's why bolted rocker shafts with solid spacers were invented. Have a read- 

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=6_196_2787

Then have a look at- 

http://www.geneberg.com/produc...&products_id=364

There are other companies that make bolt together rocker shafts, but for the price, the Berg assembly is the best in the business. Al

PS- I know it looks bad, but are you sure the retainer and keeper are damaged enough that they can't be run as is?

Forgot to ask- did the pushrod survive?

 

Thanks for the info. I wish I had known about the stock rocker shaft design's shortcomings, I could have proactively replaced them last fall when I adjusted the valve lash. Oh well, live and learn, I guess. 

The push rod didn't bend, but the aluminum tube suffered some wear from being thrust into the  rocker arm cup at an odd angle. I'll replace it, along with the rocker arm. 

So they are CB 044 heads

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/fo...ewtopic.php?t=346690

Is the top of the valve or the valve adjuster worn strangely?  I think there are caps to repair the top of valve stem - or replace that valve.  Have the spark plug threads been repaired with a Helicoil or Time-sert thread insert at some time in the past?  As long as it is solid and not leaking or coming out with the plug - it is ok to use as is.  Since head is off you could take it and have the plug hole welded over and re-threaded - if you cn find a machine shop that can do.  Or send it off for repair.

So they are CB 044 heads

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/fo...ewtopic.php?t=346690

Is the top of the valve or the valve adjuster worn strangely?  I think there are caps to repair the top of valve stem - or replace that valve.  Have the spark plug threads been repaired with a Helicoil or Time-sert thread insert at some time in the past?  As long as it is solid and not leaking or coming out with the plug - it is ok to use as is.  Since head is off you could take it and have the plug hole welded over and re-threaded - if you can find a machine shop that can do.  Or send it off for repair.

First, remove that push rod and roll it on a piece of smooth glass. It should roll smoothly with no apparent humping if it is not bent.  If it rolls unevenly, replace it (they’re cheap).  

Next, I agree that they appear to be 044 heads.  I would get a new pair from CB with the same cylinder size, toss the remaining old one and put on two new matched heads to eliminate any cornfusion.  CB’s ported heads are nice.  Not overly ported out, just nice and should work well on your engine (under 1915?) if you get the oval ports.  You don’t need nor can use the more radical “D” shaped ports so just go with the Ovals.  MOFOCOs should be OK, too.  Not experienced with any others.  If your current heads have stock (round) porting, then go with that, as your intake and exhaust systems are both more-or-less matched to the head ports so that’s what to use.

On the rocker assembly, Berg makes a very nice one, and so does CB Performance.  I got the CB system after I broke a stock rocker arm shaft.  The new one is a solid shaft with spacers and shims and I got it because Pat Downs told me “Well, they don’t fail on my Drag car.”   Good enough for me, and I’m sure Gene Berg ( if he were still alive today) would tell me the same thing of his product.  Both are wicked rugged.

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1643.htm

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Unless it's cammed to run to 6500 or 7,000 rpm, the Panchitos are too much head for a 1776; the low airspeed of the bigger ports will not make good power in the bottom end/lower midrange (where you spend most of the time driving) and without the extra 1,000 or so rpm's up top they'll never get the chance to make any where near the power they are capable of. If you end up replacing 1 head you're better off just matching what you have.  If you were building this engine from scratch I would tell you that properly ported stock valve heads are capable of 120-125 hp, and in an engine this size the lower end/midrange power you'll get with them (which will translate into better street manners and higher mileage figures) far outweigh the little bit of extra top end power the bigger valves and ports will give. 

While it's down, if you were to decide to stroke it to 2 liters (or a little bigger) we'd be looking at a whole 'nother situation... (think big evil laugh here!) 

Hope this helps. Al

ALB the Panchitos are all about port velocity, according to Pat. They are 044s with a better port design to eliminate that low-rpm sog, and he says he already has older 044s on it.

From what's written here, the Panchitos will improve his bottom end while giving him room on the top end. If he gets them cut for ratio rockers he might just get that top end too.

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