rocker arm problem

Two days after getting home I took the little bugger out for a spin and about one mile out a racket emerged from the right side of the engine. I limped back home and pulled the right valve cover off to find two large washers and part of a little steel wire clip loose in the cover. It seems the wire clip came off the end of the shaft at the exhaust rocker on number two cyl. A couple of calls later it seems that EMPI sells a "new improved" rocker arm set that has bolts rather than steel wire clips holding things together at the ends and this setup might be more suitable with the mild cam I have in my 1915. Anyone else experience this ? ....any ideas ? Good thing this didn't happen over the last three weeks. Thanks.

Used to happen all of the time with the drag bug. A solid rocker shaft kit with the spacers and end bolts is a good idea. For the most part the stock rockers are pretty old, the re-build bits and pieces are poor quality and the replacements are made . . . well, anyway . . . a nice new solid shaft kit is worth the peace of mind.

Sorry to hear that Dave, guess that's what happens after 5000 miles. Hopefully you'll be back together soon, you know you haven't been driving that thing very much lately.

Dave:

Hard to believe, but I agree with TC. Rebuilt stock rockers with after market (read that "Asian") parts aren't up to the task. Way too sloppy parts tolerances and just plain poor quality. Hell, I had what I thought were decent solid rockers and broke one at the mounting stud - ya never know.

Get a decent solid shaft with bolt/washer ends and put it all back together. Don't forget to order additional rocker arm spacer washers - you'll need 'em. Lube everything up with engine assembly lube or find some STP and lube everything with that (shaft, rocker arms, adjuster pads, etc.) Locktite the end bolts as you assemble it, too, after you get the rocker arm clearances right with the thrust washers (Locktite blue or red). You can use the shafts from CB or Berg or any other decent one and it'll be ahead of what you've got. Replace both, even if the other (original) one look good. Nothing you did wrong, just crummy aftermarket parts these days.

gn

Hey one thing I did not see anyone post is rocker are placement and geometry. Both of these items are comonly over looked when the average guy builds or rebuilds a motor.

First check to see where the rocker is riding on the valve. It should be pretty much in the center of the valve head. If not space it to get it correctly.

The second check is a little trickier. First rotate the engine to where both intake and exhaust are closes on any cylinder (as if you were adjusting the valves). Now rotate the engine to where the rocker has the valve fully open. At this point the valve spring should still have space between the coils. The problem with geometry set up is that is someone does not make sure the push rods are the correct legnth for any after market engine combo the valve springs may be going into bind. THis will cause the issue your having in the time you had it. For more imfo on Rocker arm geometry set up check book title "How to Hot rod a VW engine"

Thanks for that, Kevin. While researching correct rocker arm etc. setup, I think I read something about shims under the pedestals too which could affect spring length / push rod length. I've got to learn more about this whole rocker thing and will check into that book.

I have it, if you want to borrow it.

For perfect rocker geometry.... At valve HALF lift...the adjusting screw in the rocker should be parallel to the valve stem it is pushing down (when viewing from the side). This can be achieved by changing push rod length and/or shimming the rocker assembly. Using swivel feet will help save valve guides with slight side loading.....but ultimately, you want to get the valve geometry as close to perfect as possible.

Mike