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as you may have read. i converted to dual solex 34's. they are in synch, tuned, car is timed etc... i drive it around... love the new throaty sound comming out of the enginebay and love the increase in power and lack of hessitation and dying at idle.

problem occurs after im driving around for 20 minutes or so, cruisin on the interstate. i come up to a light, idle, go to leave it and.... the car feels like i'd lost a cylinder again or popped a plug wire.. i pull over, check em, nope... I was close to home so i just limped it home easy and barely made it up the hills with such loss of power.

i remove the engine lid and watch it idle for a minute, throttle it. The passanger carb was a lot louder then the driver side. so i figure ive got a problem over there.... wrong.

as it turns out the drivers side is quieter :) - my linkage popped off it and it was not opening with the other side. i had a 2 cylinder.

Here is the problem. this is a brand new setup and these little suckers are pretty loose, how do i keep this from happening againe. I was thinking of drilling a tiny hole with my dremel through the base of the balled stud and safety wiring it all snug. this would require precise drilling while the carbs are on the car. aka, pain in the ass. simpler way please? anyone else have loose linkage problems?
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as you may have read. i converted to dual solex 34's. they are in synch, tuned, car is timed etc... i drive it around... love the new throaty sound comming out of the enginebay and love the increase in power and lack of hessitation and dying at idle.

problem occurs after im driving around for 20 minutes or so, cruisin on the interstate. i come up to a light, idle, go to leave it and.... the car feels like i'd lost a cylinder again or popped a plug wire.. i pull over, check em, nope... I was close to home so i just limped it home easy and barely made it up the hills with such loss of power.

i remove the engine lid and watch it idle for a minute, throttle it. The passanger carb was a lot louder then the driver side. so i figure ive got a problem over there.... wrong.

as it turns out the drivers side is quieter :) - my linkage popped off it and it was not opening with the other side. i had a 2 cylinder.

Here is the problem. this is a brand new setup and these little suckers are pretty loose, how do i keep this from happening againe. I was thinking of drilling a tiny hole with my dremel through the base of the balled stud and safety wiring it all snug. this would require precise drilling while the carbs are on the car. aka, pain in the ass. simpler way please? anyone else have loose linkage problems?
I had the same kind of problem. I would be driving along and the engine would go immediatly to idle. Scared the crap out of me the first time it happened. My engine builder told me that this is a common problem. I safety wired all of my joints and have had no problems since.

Jerome
Same thing happened to me in a Corvair on the freeway many years ago. No power, but when I go back to investigate, the engine is idleing just perfect. In that case I found the errant linkage clip and just put it back on. A very strange esperience because except for a lack of power, the engine kept running very smoothly. Not your normal scenario. Suggestion - always carry duct tape!
im thinking... the tolerances on these rods and where the carbs could end up finally mounted, why not just sell a linkage rod with a better mechanism to tight and fix at the same length with much less room for adjustment... right now you can adjust em up to like 1 inch longer, thats crazy, there could never be that much more adjustment could there?

o, well i guess larger engines could couldnt they... would the carbs be farther apart then?

I still think i could design something MUCH better, I probably will now. :)
You want to see more, different linkages? Try looking at the SCORE desert racers and some of the dune bugies and the drag boys. EVERYONE has their own theory on how to maintain a rigid and accurate linkage to keep the throttle shafts acting in unison. And don't forget engine width grows under heat. Read the alignment intricacies that Weber reccomends for two adjacent carbs only millimeters apart on an inline six for instance. Then translate that to two carbs about 2 1/2 feet apart and you begin to wonder . . . Makes for some interesting bench racing though.
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