Mitch, on my external cooler I also use a manual fan switch with the same logic and use criteria you noted.
As a man of few words, I drives my car and I drives it far and often. 
And you’se flips your switches when needed, and that’s that.
.
@MusbJim posted:....on my external cooler I also use a manual fan switch with the same logic and use criteria you noted...
That's what I like, Jim — a man with a toggle switch who knows how to use it.
Most historians agree that the decline of western civilization began when they took the toggle switches out of the E-Type Jaguar.
Let us not forget that.
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@Gordon Nichols posted:And you’se flips your switches when needed, and that’s that.
And he switches his flip flops when needed too.
@Sacto Mitch posted:.
That's what I like, Jim — a man with a toggle switch who knows how to use it.
Most historians agree that the decline of western civilization began when they took the toggle switches out of the E-Type Jaguar.
Let us not forget that.
.
And the elimination of real wire wheel knock offs with those oh so dangerous, civilian destroying ears...
I received the Andrig fan today and have it installed in my new Scat shroud. It initially rubbed inside the shroud. After I determined where I placed a piece of wood against the spot and whacked it with a hammer.
The fan installation instructions say to use red Loctite on the nut. I did but I am a little concerned about what would happen if I had to replace the alternator. Heating the nut might damage the fan. With my alternator at least, the nut doesn't fully engage the threads on the shaft.
Since I am replacing both the shroud and the fan, I am unsure how meaningful any perceived results may be.
I am hoping to get everything back together and the car drivable before the Woodward Dream Cruise. In normal times there are about a million people there.
I bought the new Scat shroud from Awesome Powdercoat. I am slightly unhappy with it. It took from June 24 until this week to receive it. The powder coating is a bit bumpy like there was dirt on the shroud. I had him modify the shroud to accept the thermostat flaps and the holes were not well aligned between front and back. If I connected the flaps on one side, the holes didn't line up on the other side. I think he should test fit a set of flaps when he makes this modification.
@WOLFGANG posted:This is for sale on SAMBA for $85. Wonder if was from an industrial engine? Actually, quite ingenious.
TheSamba.com :: VW Classifieds - aftermarket alternator adapter fan
That looks like some type of home made contraption to accommodate what looks to be a GM alternator? That backing plate for the fan looks to be installed the wrong way as well.
Re Andrig's fan, I've seen all the videos on his Youtube channel; apparently his fan blows more air at the same rpms as compared to a stock one. He also manufactures the static flaps to fit inside the shroud and he sells you the templates for you to drill the holes on the aftermarket shrouds to install them.
I spent the day installing the Scat shroud. Some consider it to be the best after-market shroud but the fit of things is sure worse than the stock VW shroud. About half of the time was spent dealing with the rod down to the thermostat. I couldn't get it through the slot in the head when the flaps were installed in the shroud. So. I took the flaps out of the shroud. Later, after the rod was through the head and the flaps were almost in position, I lowered the shroud over the flaps and screwed them in place.
Before lowering the shroud over the flaps, I spent a lot of time getting the rod to move smoothly through the slot in the head. I bent and rebent and rebent the rod. I also filed and chiseled the slot to open it up.
Tomorrow I am going to install my manifolds and I really, really hope I don't have to do much to them or the cylinder covers to get them to fit.
You still have the DCNF carbs, right? The Berg manifolds are pretty small on the outside compared to the MONSTER CB manifolds. You shouldn't have much if any "massaging" to do to the cylinder tins.
FYI to all: It is a MILLION times easier to do all this shroud/flaps/thermostat fitment on an engine stand than trying to do it in the car. Just trust me on this.
@Michael McKelvey posted:Tomorrow I am going to install my manifolds and I really, really hope I don't have to do much to them or the cylinder covers to get them to fit.
The next set of cylinder tin I buy will be for single-ports. They're less than half the cost of dual port cylinder tin, and I've never been able to just run them anyhow. They always need to be trimmed. Always.
@DannyP posted:FYI to all: It is a MILLION times easier to do all this shroud/flaps/thermostat fitment on an engine stand than trying to do it in the car. Just trust me on this.
I'm not even sure how Michael is getting this done with the engine in the car. My one and only experience with flaps, linkage, and thermostat took the better part of an evening, and I had the engine on a stand for the entire thing.
@Stan Galat, I am not doing this with the engine in the car. Way back at the beginning of this saga, as I was removing the engine I dropped the car on the fan shroud. That is why replacing the shroud became part of the project. Today I am starting to regret a bit that I ever thought I should replace my cylinder tins with the "new and better" ones from Awesome Powder. Also, I should have trimmed them at the inner end. Now that the shroud is installed, I can't pull them tight where they attach to the sides of the shroud.
Regarding fitting the manifolds, I am grinding a bit off the side of the manifolds to see if I can make them fit that way without modifying the cylinder tins.
Sorry to hear your having issues with your thermostat/flappers. When I got mine from Clark they went into my Cooled1 shroud without any drama. I just had to grind a little corner off one of flapper housings because it protruded past the shroud and interfered with a snug fit against the case.
@dlearl476, my shroud and flappers are installed. The rod from the flappers seemed to move freely before I bolted everything together. Now it seems to bind a little. I will see what I can do from the underside when I install the thermostat.
I got my manifolds installed without modifying the cylinder tins. I ground a little off the manifolds on the bottom inner edge and tapped them into position with a punch. My Berg manifolds fit very tight on the studs to maintain alignment between the manifolds and the heads.
Stan mentioned using single port cylinder tins. I don't know how well that would work on dual port heads. But, I sure like the way the spark plug seals work on them.
I am still sometimes surprised by how little I can get done in a long day in the garage.
@Michael McKelvey wrote:
"I am still sometimes surprised by how little I can get done in a long day in the garage."
Boy, ain't THAT the truth.
@Michael McKelvey posted:@Stan Galat, I am not doing this with the engine in the car.
Ah. Well done then. Carry on.
@Michael McKelvey posted:Stan mentioned using single port cylinder tins. I don't know how well that would work on dual port heads. But, I sure like the way the spark plug seals work on them.
Unless I'm mistaken, the only difference is the size of the holes for the manifolds. As I have to hog them out for a "big-beef" CB manifold every time (even when I've removed 1/4" of meat from the outside of the manifold), I've often wondered why I was spending the additional coin for the dual-port tins.
I like the big-beefs, because they're a long/straight runner and because of IM's engine relocation (towards the "firewall"), they clear my deck-lid easily.
The configuration around the spark plug holes is different.
Stan, I have a pair of non-rusty single port tins with your name on them. I'll throw them in the trailer.