About how high would be safe when highway driving? I have 1776 dual
carb setup with a 3:88 trans. I'm just breaking in this puppy. I don't want to push it .
Todd.
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About how high would be safe when highway driving? I have 1776 dual
carb setup with a 3:88 trans. I'm just breaking in this puppy. I don't want to push it .
Todd.
carb setup with a 3:88 trans. I'm just breaking in this puppy. I don't want to push it .
Todd.
I'm going to start breaking in my new motor too. The key, I think, is to vary your speed. Any constant speed, for long periods of time, is not a good thing.
Ron
Ron
Aloha,
Go to www.aircooled.net and check out their technical articles. They have a good procedure for breaking-in any new/rebuilt engine.
~Joel
Go to www.aircooled.net and check out their technical articles. They have a good procedure for breaking-in any new/rebuilt engine.
~Joel
The key to breaking in a modern engine (as opposed to a new engine 40 years ago) is 1) do NOT overheat it (run under 4,000 RPM), 2) do not lug it (keep RPM and thus oil pressure up, say at least 2,500 RPM or better under load), and 3) change oil and filter at 100 miles, 600 miles, and 1,500 miles. I would also reset the valves, ignition timing, and belt tension at 1,500 miles. Then just drive the car.
Most modern engines have better tolerances, metalurgy, and RMF finishes on critcal parts so break-in as we knew it 40 years ago may not even be necessary - as an example, new Porsches and Mercedes-Benz cars come with synthetic oil in the engines.
Most modern engines have better tolerances, metalurgy, and RMF finishes on critcal parts so break-in as we knew it 40 years ago may not even be necessary - as an example, new Porsches and Mercedes-Benz cars come with synthetic oil in the engines.
Hey George...
I just took our Subaru Forrester in for its first oil change and the clipboard dude made the comment that,"synthetic oil isn't recommended for most newer cars like this..."
Where is that comin' from?
MM
I just took our Subaru Forrester in for its first oil change and the clipboard dude made the comment that,"synthetic oil isn't recommended for most newer cars like this..."
Where is that comin' from?
MM
Does the clipboard dude work for Jiffy Lube? My wife's new BMW came with Castrol synthetic and 15K oil change intervals. I don't imagine the Subaru's engine is more stressed than the bimmers especially with my wife's heavy foot.
ed
ed
Paul, aforementioned clip-board dude has sh@t for brains. Your car using synthetics will have less frictional losses and thus experience less wear, improved gas mileage, run a bit cooler, and have a slight performance improvement.
Todd:
You say you have a 1776. Do you know if you have a stock crankshaft (of course it is stock stroke, but is it a stock unit)? I would not, as a general practice run a stock VW Type 1 crankshaft at over about 5000RPM during acceleration.
If you have a stock VW cam and springs, you probably cannot run over about 5000RPM as the valves tend to float. (There will be any number of posts about guys who run 6K, even 7K. If they used an accurate tach it would be more like 5000RPM. Trust me on this one, I have talked to VW factory engineers.)
You say you have a 1776. Do you know if you have a stock crankshaft (of course it is stock stroke, but is it a stock unit)? I would not, as a general practice run a stock VW Type 1 crankshaft at over about 5000RPM during acceleration.
If you have a stock VW cam and springs, you probably cannot run over about 5000RPM as the valves tend to float. (There will be any number of posts about guys who run 6K, even 7K. If they used an accurate tach it would be more like 5000RPM. Trust me on this one, I have talked to VW factory engineers.)
Alan,
As far as I know it
As far as I know it
Some one once told me that these engines don't realy drip oil, they just mark their territory; ) But it sounds like yours is starting early.
Todd,
I made the statement once or twice about Type 1's marking their territory, but I'm probably not the only one. I bought mine used with about 3K miles on it, and it has always dripped a little. I put some newspapers under the back to catch the drips, sort of like having a puppy in the garage;) I think this is pretty typical so don't be too concerned unless the puddles start getting much bigger.
John H.
2000 VS
I made the statement once or twice about Type 1's marking their territory, but I'm probably not the only one. I bought mine used with about 3K miles on it, and it has always dripped a little. I put some newspapers under the back to catch the drips, sort of like having a puppy in the garage;) I think this is pretty typical so don't be too concerned unless the puddles start getting much bigger.
John H.
2000 VS
Aloha,
If you have a completely stock crankshaft, camshaft, rods and heads setup, I would not go over 5500rpms. I say 5500 because you are working in a lighter car than a Beetle.
If this is the first time EVER you are starting the car, keep the revs above 2500rpm for the first 15 to 20 minutes. Wouldn't be bad to have a box fan blowing under the car as well. Extra insurance. Change oil and adjust valves, etc. If you've already done the initial break-in, you should drive it around for about 200-300 miles not over-revving it. Change oil, adjust valves, etc. Then, go find a steep hill and blast up the sucker. This will help set the rings. Change oil, adjust valves, etc. Then, it all depends on how you drive the car. Drive like a bat outta hell? Maybe you should check everything every 1500 miles. A timid driver that spooks easily? Check up at a bit longer intervals, say 3500 miles.
Can't remember if you're the one who said you have 300 miles and its already dripping. Where is the oil coming from? The front (towards the front of the car) side of the engine? Or back (towards the back of the car) side? After 300 miles, I would be on the phone with whoever built the engine, asking for an explanation. Sounds like someone may have gotten a little excited with RTV silicone.
~Joel
If you have a completely stock crankshaft, camshaft, rods and heads setup, I would not go over 5500rpms. I say 5500 because you are working in a lighter car than a Beetle.
If this is the first time EVER you are starting the car, keep the revs above 2500rpm for the first 15 to 20 minutes. Wouldn't be bad to have a box fan blowing under the car as well. Extra insurance. Change oil and adjust valves, etc. If you've already done the initial break-in, you should drive it around for about 200-300 miles not over-revving it. Change oil, adjust valves, etc. Then, go find a steep hill and blast up the sucker. This will help set the rings. Change oil, adjust valves, etc. Then, it all depends on how you drive the car. Drive like a bat outta hell? Maybe you should check everything every 1500 miles. A timid driver that spooks easily? Check up at a bit longer intervals, say 3500 miles.
Can't remember if you're the one who said you have 300 miles and its already dripping. Where is the oil coming from? The front (towards the front of the car) side of the engine? Or back (towards the back of the car) side? After 300 miles, I would be on the phone with whoever built the engine, asking for an explanation. Sounds like someone may have gotten a little excited with RTV silicone.
~Joel
Joel,
As far as the 1 size dime drip . This came from the middle to back of the engine .
Again, just a small one. It looks like it came from the gasket where the engine is bolted
together. I will have mechanic look at it over the weekend . I bought the car new from Kirk at VS .
Todd.
As far as the 1 size dime drip . This came from the middle to back of the engine .
Again, just a small one. It looks like it came from the gasket where the engine is bolted
together. I will have mechanic look at it over the weekend . I bought the car new from Kirk at VS .
Todd.
Alan, it will depend on which stock VW crankshaft you have and whether or not the engine has been balanced. Greg Ward in Australia runs a VERY fast VW sedan in hillclimb events and he wins more often than not against some impressive opposition. His 1,915 uses a stock forged VW crank without counterbalance weights (not cast), stock forged VW rods, flywheel, etc. These are all German parts, magnafluxed and meticulously balanced.
Also note that Formula Vee racers with "stock" VW type 1 engines were usually run up to 6,500 RPM with stock valves and valve springs.
(Message Edited 3/4/2003 3:37:24 PM)
Also note that Formula Vee racers with "stock" VW type 1 engines were usually run up to 6,500 RPM with stock valves and valve springs.
(Message Edited 3/4/2003 3:37:24 PM)
As far as the drip problem, I had a very strange situation you might keep in mind.
I had a shop build me a 1915. I didn't think about it at the time and the engine came with stock VW valve covers and bails. The engine ran fine, but leaked quite a bit of oil. Fortunately, I pulled into a shop where the owner was an engine builder. He told me: "You probably got 30/40 year old bails on that sucker. They lose tension and leak."
Well, a new set of bails was only a few dollars and I reinstalled the valve cover gaskets as well. No leaks!
Good luck.
I had a shop build me a 1915. I didn't think about it at the time and the engine came with stock VW valve covers and bails. The engine ran fine, but leaked quite a bit of oil. Fortunately, I pulled into a shop where the owner was an engine builder. He told me: "You probably got 30/40 year old bails on that sucker. They lose tension and leak."
Well, a new set of bails was only a few dollars and I reinstalled the valve cover gaskets as well. No leaks!
Good luck.
Aloha,
Todd - Try what Alan did. Like they say, start with the cheapest fix first. Also, check around the oil pump cover. Is there oil seeping out the bottom? Do you have an engine sump attached to the block?
~Joel
Todd - Try what Alan did. Like they say, start with the cheapest fix first. Also, check around the oil pump cover. Is there oil seeping out the bottom? Do you have an engine sump attached to the block?
~Joel
a new tight eng. shouldn't leak, they usually get worse, and where
you describe it could also be the rear main seal. good luck, bruce
you describe it could also be the rear main seal. good luck, bruce
After the cam is broken in, and timing set, A/F ratio set, don't be afraid of RPM....The WORST THING FOR AN AIRCOOLED ENGINE IS LUGGING!
Many, many times I break cams in for about 40 minutes then do a pull straight to 7,000RPM and hold it there for 20-30 seconds....If its going to break it may as well do it with me, from the beginning.
The best thing to do is drive it normally, just like it will be when it has 20K miles on it.
Many, many times I break cams in for about 40 minutes then do a pull straight to 7,000RPM and hold it there for 20-30 seconds....If its going to break it may as well do it with me, from the beginning.
The best thing to do is drive it normally, just like it will be when it has 20K miles on it.
Hello all,
Thanks for all of your input; the drip appears to have stopped. I had the car serviced over the weekend. Oil changed and valves adjusted. So far so good. I will continue to monitor it for a re-appearance. Other that I
Thanks for all of your input; the drip appears to have stopped. I had the car serviced over the weekend. Oil changed and valves adjusted. So far so good. I will continue to monitor it for a re-appearance. Other that I
Mine is a 63. I have a floor jack and I jack it from the point the the arm attaches to the pan with the arm in the plate of the jack.
ed
ed