Rpms not dropping solution

It's always those little brass thingies that give the worst grief. Right Lane? (Long running joke, BTW)

You've taken your first step in understanding these simple but awesome machines. These are hands on kinda cars, but that's part of the fun. The Subaru guys are missing out.

I learned a lot.

Thank you,

Renfrance

@Renfrance posted:

                   

I have met with success this evening after two months of engine refusing to drop rpms when at idle. This was my ongoing fight with my Weber idf40 carbs made in Spain, (not knockoffs). After many suggestions from distributor weights stuck , clogged idle circuit, and vacuum leak issues I finally located the problem. My fist issue was to get the intake manifolds and carbs off the engine. Reading one of the suggestions on this site I purchased a 1/4” flex bar that allowed me to use a #12 socket on the end and I was able to easily remove both manifold nuts from the engine. From there I removed the carburetor and began disassembling it by watching a video suggest on cleaning out the idle circuits. I checked the float levels as well. Getting ready to stuff paper in the intake head openings I noticed a small brass screw. Looking throughout the carb for where it may have gone. I noticed the vacuum tube at the bottom of the carb had internal screws and was clear to blow air through. Since I found out it was a vacuum tube used for distributors that used a vacuum advanced and I did not have a vacuum advance on my distributor I screwed in the small brass screw (see photo) and secured the screw. I reassembled the carb, did the presets recommended and started the engine. I used the snail to balance both carbs. The engine began to smooth out and the idle was set at 900 rpms. Problem solved!
I want to thank all forum members who assisted me in my quest for sanity. Without this site and all the help I received I would have never resolved the problem. Thank you all and long love this forum!

Renfrance

I LOVE it when a plan comes together.

ps: Not only did you sort your problem, but think of all the experience you gained. Next time you suspect a clogged idle jet (sadly, it’s all too frequent) it will take you half the time to deal with it.

Small brass screw thingie found?

I hope you put some blue Loctite on that screw and snugged it down.

One cylinder vacuum leak, yeah that would do it. Really glad you got it sorted.

I added a vacuum line cap over the tube.

.

There are eight million screws in the naked Weber.

This has been one of them.

.

Great sleuthing, @Renfrance!

Lol

Thank you

@Carlos G no offence intended...but,  i had my fill with carbs/jets/timing/points/valve adjustment... etc etc... in my air cooled days...so, all that time @Renfrance was "fiddling about...fiddling about.....fiddling about" (according to keith moon)...i was cruising on PCH in my turnkey SUBARU....with EFI & EI.....just sayin'....seriously though, glad you got it sorted...happy motoring

@Sacto Mitch posted:

.

There are eight million screws in the naked Dellorto

This has been one of them.

.

Fixed it for you. There are only four million in a Weber.

@jncspyder posted:

@Carlos G no offence intended...but,  i had my fill with carbs/jets/timing/points/valve adjustment... etc etc... in my air cooled days...so, all that time @Renfrance was "fiddling about...fiddling about.....fiddling about" (according to keith moon)...i was cruising on PCH in my turnkey SUBARU....with EFI & EI.....just sayin'....seriously though, glad you got it sorted...happy motoring

I have had both. My car was absolutely dead nuts reliable and running perfectly with Webers. I went to EFI simply for the challenge of "Can I do this?"

The answer is yes, yes I can.

Points/timing yup, done that. That's not hard. Electronic points-replacement module makes that a non-issue. Easy-peasy with crankfire and no distributor.

All I have left is valve adjustments. Once, maybe twice a year. They are neither difficult nor time-consuming.

No offence taken, either.

Well done, Renfrance!

That's as good a case of sleuthing as anyone on here has done.

AND.....YOU FOUND THE BRASS THINGIE!!

Thank you for the vote of confidence. I think I was more lucky than smart.

@Carlos G posted:

It's always those little brass thingies that give the worst grief. Right Lane? (Long running joke, BTW)

You've taken your first step in understanding these simple but awesome machines. These are hands on kinda cars, but that's part of the fun. The Subaru guys are missing out.

And I'm ok with that.

@DannyP thanx for the kind words..... in my youth...my brother & our friends had HOTRODS...Z 28's NOVA's CHEVELLE's  as well as big block  blown flat bottoms etc etc.....i did my share of helping with a wrench....but, that ship has sailed...tooo old to lay on the ground adjusting valves.... haa haa!....i still have the knowledge,when minor stuff needs to be addressed..... just not the desire on a near constant basis....turnkey is more my thing now.....i saw your mechanical ability that you posted....pretty amazing!

@Lane Anderson posted:

And I'm ok with that.

Me too, Lane, in my own way...

I think it wasn’t my skill level but just plain dumb luck. However, I will take luck anytime.

Thank you,
Renfrance

p.s. I am 72 and it is hard for me to craw under the car, getting into the car and especially getting out of the car so I can identify with you.

@Renfrance posted:

                   

I have met with success this evening after two months of engine refusing to drop rpms when at idle. This was my ongoing fight with my Weber idf40 carbs made in Spain, (not knockoffs). After many suggestions from distributor weights stuck , clogged idle circuit, and vacuum leak issues I finally located the problem. My fist issue was to get the intake manifolds and carbs off the engine. Reading one of the suggestions on this site I purchased a 1/4” flex bar that allowed me to use a #12 socket on the end and I was able to easily remove both manifold nuts from the engine. From there I removed the carburetor and began disassembling it by watching a video suggest on cleaning out the idle circuits. I checked the float levels as well. Getting ready to stuff paper in the intake head openings I noticed a small brass screw. Looking throughout the carb for where it may have gone. I noticed the vacuum tube at the bottom of the carb had internal screws and was clear to blow air through. Since I found out it was a vacuum tube used for distributors that used a vacuum advanced and I did not have a vacuum advance on my distributor I screwed in the small brass screw (see photo) and secured the screw. I reassembled the carb, did the presets recommended and started the engine. I used the snail to balance both carbs. The engine began to smooth out and the idle was set at 900 rpms. Problem solved!
I want to thank all forum members who assisted me in my quest for sanity. Without this site and all the help I received I would have never resolved the problem. Thank you all and long love this forum!

Renfrance

Bravo, très bien fait !

I Think that some of us have developed a way of rolling into and out of our Speedsters that works.

I went to a C&C last weekend and let Al Silvestri try out my seats (he has Speedster seats in his convertible D, I have something closer to Cabriolet seats).  He used the “right leg in first and roll into the seat” process that I use.  We also both get the left leg out, left hand on the sill and roll out he left into a stand.  
Kind of like when we were both gymnastics athletes when we were young.  

I can certainly relate.

so you have a screw loose?

@Renfrance posted:

I think it wasn’t my skill level but just plain dumb luck. However, I will take luck anytime.

Thank you,
Renfrance

p.s. I am 72 and it is hard for me to craw under the car, getting into the car and especially getting out of the car so I can identify with you.

I worked on a fugitive task force for 10 years and we had a saying, "Sometimes it's good to be lucky rather than lucky to be good."

I built tons of models as a kid. One thing I longed for going into Spyder ownership was a running, driving, 1:1 scale model to tinker with. Annual Dellorto douches are a feature not a bug. As are all the other little things you do in an AC Spyder/Speedster.

I have two other convertibles I can get in and turn the key.

In related news: I’ve been catching up on some deferred maintenance on the 968. I realized today it’s easier to get in, but harder to get out of, than my Spyder. With the Spyder, I can pretty much stand up and get out (although the standing up bit is a trick) With the 968, you have to exit left and back, and it’s harder to get my left leg under me and stand on one leg off center like that.

If you lead with your left foot, and at the same time place your left hand on the sill and push up you can then extend your left leg and stand on it, then your body is turning or maybe as you guys say rolling out, while simultaneously pulling out your right foot.   When I was heavier rolling might be more appropriate.

I have been considering installing a “James Bond ejection seat” to exit the car!😎

I think everyone should have someone videotape their MOEx and MOEn  (method of exit/entry), or create a photo sequence with captions.  Could be a contest!  Guaranteed to be entertaining. 

Try it with a bruised tail bone.

That makes it all the more fun.

the coccyx tail bone is a PITA..bruised mine many moons(get it) and it took months for it to quit hurting.

It is - quite literally - a pain in the ass.  I'll be glad when it heals.

@barncobob posted:

the coccyx tail bone is a PITA..bruised mine many moons(get it) and it took months for it to quit hurting.

Were those LUNAR months ?