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I’m selling Ruby a CMC speedster.  Originally my brothers’s car but due to a stroke in 09 he is physically handicapped and passed ownership to me.  In the near future he’ll need additional funds for care and Ruby is the source for those funds.  With information and photos below I would like the SOC community to give me their estimate of Ruby’s market value.  I have a number in in mind but would appreciate your input.  I plan to post her in SAMBA and Orlando and central east coast Florida papers plus would like suggestions of additional advertising media.  I’ve read SOC post concerning Craigslist and it is not a candidate .

 Body purchased in 1989 from CMC Miami and built on 69 IRS pan.  Car completed in 1995 and current milage is 17k.  1776 cc engine build on new AS21 case, 96mm counterweight crank, 90.5mm pistons, Engle VZ25 cam, straight cut cam sprocket and matching lifters, 40mm x 35.5mm heads with duel valve springs, 1-5/8” exhaust merged header, 12lb flywheel, Kennedy 1700lb clutch,  Dellorto 40mm DRLA carbs reciently cleaned and new kits installed, 36hp doghouse fan shroud, Bosch 009 dist, 12 volt gen and electric fuel pump.  Ghia disk brakes up front and drums in the rear.  Three hundred miles on new tires 215/60R-15.  Installed at assembly: re-manufactured transaxile, 3:88/1 R & P, New bearings, ball joints, tie-rods, axles installed at assembly.  She has clean Florida title.

 My VW days were the late 60 thru 70s.  In that period I built a least 10 type 1 & 2 engines including a small block chevy.  Except for the chevy these were stock engines.  A high performance VW air-cooled engine, you are crazy!  Forward 3 decades to 2009 with no exposure to air cooled VWs and I’m introduced to Ruby.  At first drive my thoughts are wow this isn’t the engine I remember, the car moves out!  On a local SOC cruise with Tom Lorenzo, Davey CollinD, I burried the peddle only looking at the road ahead then soon felt like she is floating so looked at the speed-o, 90 mph and climbing.  I vowed not to do that again.  After joining the SOC madness I’ve become aware of engine performance options and more important a wide range of exceptional knowledge and experience.  This includes the entertainment of reading posts that occasionally stray from the subject and sometimes go to textual jousting.  Theron evaluates the content and if required steps in and puts the kibosh on it.

 When the third stall is vacant I plan to build a VW performance engine; VW enthusiasm has returned.  Next decide where will the engine live.  I don’t plan to build a 2.7 liter bullet like the one Rich put together and Tom Lorenzo bought prior to Carlisle 2015 but at the end of a 0 to 70 mph race I still want to read Tom’s license plate.   Thanks in advance.         

 

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Images (11)
  • 3.5Ruby
  • 3Ruby
  • Feb 2015b
  • 2-5Ruby
  • 1Ruby
  • 6Ruby
  • 4Ruby
  • 8Ruby
  • 9Ruby
  • IMG_0519
  • 7Ruby
Original Post

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I've always wondered if those old Zoom Tubes would fit a speedster ....  You have an old school flared speedy that looks the part and the 40mm Dells are worth some coin. People in the market fora car are looking for an upscale nearly spotless speedster as the majority do not have serious mechanical ability to make necessary upgrades and changes. In it's current patina, I would estimate that you can fetch in the $8,500 - $9,700 range.

Last edited by Alan Merklin

IMHO some things that would need done, if purchased.

12 volt conversion.

Update gauges, new panel.

Detail everything, paint, interior, seat covers (replace), etc.

Full mechanical safety, etc.

I purchased a Speedster in similiar condition about 3 years ago. I have about $10K in updates. I'm guessing that would be needed to get your car to a $20K level.

Not sure how desirable a brown and red car is.

Last edited by Roy Simpson, Ex owner FF Plastic Porsche

I'm thinking I would almost agree with your $7k valuation but with the current speedster market uptick and the motor having the right combo I think it will bring more. This is one of those projects that has good bones i.e motor trans chassis is the rest is something that can be addressed. Update the entire Interior:  Replace the gauges remove the lower dash panel and dash face vinyl,  new top & curtains, wheels & tires. lower the rear torsion, replace the mirrors and fresh paint.....$6500 -$7500 is my estimate to get it updated, that number along with my guestimate' current value  at the upper end of $9,700 the total investment if doing all the work except paint ...I figured in $2,400 for paint or take it to MAACO saving you some money and get their top end job, handing the painter and extra $100 prior to pant for pocket money to put a bit of extra effort into it) ....IF,  I were looking for another project ( I'm not)  I would jump at this one...

Thanks for your input everybody, Roy, Major, Wolfgang, Bob, WNGD and The Doctor. Body color is the original gel-coat.  CMC came in white, ruby and black.  I think Wolfgang's is white but set so long it changed color.  Doctor I agree with your reevaluation; the second number is what I'm thinking.  One of my projects was to lower the rear.  The profile isn't eye pleasing.  My brother said he performed standard maintenance.  Turn the key and it goes every time.  Now I've got some work to do- advertise.  

I welcome further input.  Again, thanks everybody.        

 

Crawdad said  "CMC came in white, ruby and black."

Mine is Black - great FL color, huh?  I sold the Espar gas heater and black top and tonneau a few years ago.  Black was actually an extra $300 back in 1988.  I have the original cartalog - you'll be amazed that there were 9 gelcoat colors available!  They are:  beige, dove gray, white, primrose yellow, black, red, green, brown (I've never seen one in brown), and burgundy (your ruby).  Interiors were tan, white, black, burgundy and red with tops in tan, black and white.  Carpets brown, black, red and burgundy.

Even from the factory the gelcoat was not that bad - mine has survived 28 years getting beat up in garage/barn.  It came with a couple stress cracks behind door openings and I added nice chip to hood to prove it was a replica.  I did a little color sanding to remove duct tape residue and dull areas from a blue tarp flapping for over a thousand miles after trip south.  You have to get very very fine wet/dry sand paper 1200, 1500, 2000, 4000, 6000, and 8000 "grit".  Use lots of water and use care on sharp edges and radiuses.  When done you can buff with rubbing compound, polishing compound and carnauba wax.  Same techique can be used on the wheels and they will shine like chrome - use Mother's Aluminum polish at very end.  It is a lot of tiring work - best accompanied by lots of cold ice tea (or beer).

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Dennis,

Above everything else, you have our prayers for your brother's peaceful rest at his facility. 

I am very sorry to hear of the need to sell Ruby.  We still hope to have you join Robert, Davey and I on any of our group drive and you are welcome to drive Sharona.

I pray that you will get top dollar so that your brother will continue to have top care.  He is blessed to have a brother that really cares about him  

Tom L.

Wolfgang thanks for the CMC info.  You are one of many SOC go-to- guys for archival information and hands on experience.  Notice you didn’t reply to the 28 year old CMC project which hasn’t started.  Guess you’ve built up a callus on the subject  and ‘it just don’t matt-ah.  Fore get au bout it.’

Tom ‘Pepspeed’ thanks for your kind words.  Dale is fat, dumb and happy in assisted living.  I don’t imply he wouldn’t want full movement of arm and leg but he was quick to adjust to the reality of his limitations.  Thanks for keeping me in the local SOC cruise gang, Davey and Bubbles.  I’m not going away.

The other day I backed Ruby out and saw a small brake fluid puddle on the garage floor that would originate at the master cylinder location.  Master cylinder boot has evidence of fluid but no fluid on the floor.  After further observation I surmise fluid is ponding in the double wall and is leaking through a pan bolt on left corner, plus the aft fluid reservoir is empty and still a firm brake peddle, I caught that in time.  After cylinder removal saw the fluid is coming out of the weep hole at the bottom of the boot.  Looked for a rebuild kit and cheapest is $24 but found complete cylinder at Autozone for $20.  A new master cylinder; that could be the deciding factor to a prospective buyer  I'm sure the below images are typical familiar to many speedy/ VW owners. 

Attachments

Images (2)
  • Master Cy
  • Master Cy1

Wolfgang thanks for the CMC info.  You are one of many SOC go-to- guys for archival information and hands on experience.  Notice you didn’t reply to the 28 year old CMC project which hasn’t started.  Guess you’ve built up a callus on the subject  and ‘it just don’t matt-ah.  Fore get au bout it.’

Tom ‘Pepspeed’ thanks for your kind words.  Dale is fat, dumb and happy in assisted living.  I don’t imply he wouldn’t want full movement of arm and leg but he was quick to adjust to the reality of his limitations.  Thanks for keeping me in the local SOC cruise gang, Davey and Bubbles.  I’m not going away.

The other day I backed Ruby out and saw a small brake fluid puddle on the garage floor that would originate at the master cylinder location.  Master cylinder boot has evidence of fluid but no fluid on the floor.  After further observation I surmise fluid is ponding in the double wall and is leaking through a pan bolt on left corner, plus the aft fluid reservoir is empty and still a firm brake peddle, I caught that in time.  After cylinder removal saw the fluid is coming out of the weep hole at the bottom of the boot.  Looked for a rebuild kit and cheapest is $24 but found complete cylinder at Autozone for $20.  A new master cylinder; that could be the deciding factor to a prospective buyer  I'm sure the below images are typical familiar to many speedy/ VW owners. 

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