Running Rich???

When cold the car starts easy.
Get it warm, and shut it off, then wait 10 minutes. When I try to start, It taked a while to get it started and barely does.

If I am running rich, How do I lean out a webber. Is it the little screw (with the spring) at the bottom of the carb?

Thanks
Todd

Todd,
Here's a few sources for Weber set up and tuning.

http://www.aircooled.net Look in technical library. Carbs

http://bouncewithme.bounceme.net:81/vwpage/idf/idfsetup.htm

Greg

First, read the stuff Greg mentions, then start by checking the float bowl fuel height (sometimes called "Float Level"). Your symptoms sound a lot like the fuel is too high in the bowl, and it's always best to check that before anything else.

Todd, what you talk about is fairly normal in air cooled VW's; they're always harder to start when warmed up; must be due to heat expansion. I don't think that necessarily has anything to do with how rich or lean your mixture is.

I simply disagree. If it's set up right and tuned right and doesn't have anything wrong with that set up, it may start a bit hard when cold, if there are no choke butterflies in the carbs (pumping the acclerator is a pre-requisite, there), but should fire right up when warm.

Like within a turn of the crank (or four cylinder fires).

Todd, re-reading your post, is sounds like one of two things is happening:

1: one or more of your carbs has an inlet (Pilot) valve with some crud in it, holding it partially open and letting fuel dribble into the bowl from system pressure when the engine is shut off. That overflows the bowl a little and raw gas dribbles down into the intake manifold making a very rich condition in that runner.

It's less noticeable when cold, because the cold manifold runners need to be slightly richened when cold to overcome condensation on the inside of the runners (which is what a choke does), so that's why it starts easier when cold.

When hot, it becomes over-rich and "loads up" (an old 2-stroke term) just like it has a choke on. To clear it when warm, simply mash the accelerator to the floor and hold it there until it clears out and starts up. THEN do a carb rebuild by at least replacing the pilot valve(s) and re-setting the float levels.

Or, 2: you have an intake manifold gasket leak (I doubt it, but it's possible). Get a can of aerosol carburetor cleaner and spray it all around the carb-base-to-manifold gasket while the engine is running and watch to see if the rpms speed up while spraying. Do the same at the manifold-to-head gasket and look for a speed up there. If it does, the gasket has an intake leak and must be replaced. If it doesn't you're OK and don't do anything, but look back at #1 above.

If these two fail to produce better results, see the articles Greg mentioned above, but a carb rebuild might be in order....

gn

I think you are on to it Gordon. To start the car while warm, I have to push the accelerator to the floor and crank the start unitl it revs starts.

I will try it tomorrow and get back to you. Thanks for all the feedback. This didn't happen with the previous engine. I'm wondering if I broke the gasket when I remove the carbs.

Todd

If you re-used the same gasket, 95+% probability. If you were messing around and levereaged the intake manfolds when they were still attached to the heads, 70%+ probability.

That lower (manifold to head) gasket is sensitive to that sort of thing (plus, they're usually hard to get at to tighten properly), but I would still do a carb rebuild and replace the pilot valves - THAT would be my first choice.

Oh!.....and check your timing adjustment, just for the heck of it.
gn

More to this Saga

I decided to start simple and replace the gaskets and the headers. Started the car and heard a loud squealing from the right Carb. I shut the car off, and it kept running.

I tightened the carbs down, and it fixed the squealing for the most part (could hear is a bit), but the car still wants to run after being shut down.

Do I have leaky Gaskets?

That sounds like "dieseling" and is more than likely due to too much of an advanced timing or too high of a compression ratio for the octane in the gas you're using.