Rusty wheels

Well it came in from the land of rust and the wheels are pretty bad. I thought I could use some miracle compound like S100 on them but the chrome is gone. Opinions? Replace them (where and cheapest?), emery paper them and paint them with aluminum paint (I have used the primo German stuff on other cars), powder coat (big bucks ?). I don't want to buy some other mags since I was thinking a more traditional look was what I wanted.

i would try to find a chrome shop if there are any left in CA and see what they would charge to redo or maybe sand/bead blast and paint silver

They look like the old Brazilian Mangles - if they aren't kept waxed they do rust. The new ones are made in China and are even worse! I'd sand the bad rust then scuff them up with WD sand paper and paint them silver. Check around locally on powder coating - it might not be as costly as you think. Rechroming is very costly!

Fred, glad your car is in SanD! Those wheels are not worth re-chroming. For the time being, just sand them, get out the old Kentucky Chrome, i.e. silver spray paint, and work out! Most original Speedsters had painted wheels. Then look for a deal on used chromes, or some cool aftermarket mags. I'd like to see you and your car. Give me a call 760 637 5036. TheSamba is a good used parts place to look.

What works amazing on surface rust is normal steel wool!

That's what I thought, but I thought I would check it out with you guys. I used to paint the wire wheels all the time on my MGB and still paint the Riverias on my 914 so "why not" just keep on painting especially since as some of you say, "they were sometimes painted originally". Save a few bucks and save them for the future problems.

Thanks,

Fred Adler
San Diego

My late father-law who was an excellent body man from the 60's used very fine steel wool and a few drops of kerosene. I have tried it and it works on some things. At least you can drive the car, and you can still paint them when you get some spare time. Good luck. Al

Fred - you may have already thought of this, but I've had pretty good luck using Naval Jelly on rust. Google it and see what you think.

Good Luck - looking forward to meeting up with you and seeing your new ride!

wasnt warren selling a set of wheels?

Fred,
I have used Mothers Chrome/alum polish and 00 steel wool. Lots of rubbing, but was able to get many items rust free or close.
Give it a try,
Dale

Darn, I remember Naval Jelly. Hasn't the EPA waged war on that stuff. Anyway, I will paint. I can save the $250 for something else. Kirk's replacements (Vintage) seem the best deal at $59 but since they will likely keep rusting, may as well just use the bright silver aluminum Rustoleum on them. The hub caps are fine and chrome shiney.

Steel wool (DRY) you will be amazed!

Fred, the Mothers chrome polish does amazing things. I use it on my wheels. It may be worth a try before painting. I just looked at the pics of your wheel and it looks like it is really pitted. The Mothers does get pretty heavy rust off and polishes the wheel. What I have found though is that when the chrome is pitted enough that the rust comes back real fast. I'd give it a try before painting though.

I just bought a vintage Raleigh Bicycle for my daily commute. Naval Jelly put a hurtin' on the chrome rims. I thought they were trashed, now they look as if they have another 30 years to go.
paul out

Steel wool - 0000 grade works really good for rusted chrome. Use something to lube it, even water works. A good polish with the wool and a coat of wax. You'll be amazed at how much better they look.

Won't stay that way forever, the rust will come back. But it could take a quite a while.

angela

Fred,

The only thing I have to add is use brass wool fine or 000 grade, dry works great. I use brass or SS for the rust resistance when fine bits of the wool stay on the rim and rust themselves. Mine are pretty bad and I brought back the rear rims then waxed them, I will get to the fronts soon. Not perfect but better than painting. Yours look like they would polish up some.

So is it drivable? It sure looks good!

Lets get together sometime soon and cruise. Will and Kevin and any SD members?

Cheers
Dave

Used Car Lot Special: ....using a piece of balled aluminum foil on lead sled chrome car bumpers, asd I rubbed over the rust craters, the aluminum would be shaved off and fill in the rust voids.....a sure fire 5 day, 5 footer fix. ~Alan

You guys are funny...................

I just started stripping off everything last night so it isn't drivable plus the battery is sporadic. I think it just needs a new ground wire since the Midwest rust monster chews those up as an appetizer. I am hoping to get it together in the next few weeks but I have to go to D.C. this weekend for business.

I have three big jobs. One strip and polish it (leave the repaint for later), steam clean the gunk off the engine since the oil filler tube was cut by the fan belt and "painted the whole engine compartment with oil" and I don't want a VW fire and clean the hell out of the interior which is coated with pollen and dirt and crud. The aircleaners are black. Might need to tune it up after I get it some air again.

Then it will roll.

Cool; just needs some TLC; will look as good as new when you're done. Naval Jelly is good as well as the Mother's. Also if you do get your chrome back keep it from rusting by waxing it regularly; that's what I've done with my rims for the past 4 years and they're still looking good. I'd say keep your Mangels as the new replacement wheels that are available are "Made in China" (just like everything else, I guess).

Fred, The oil in the engine compartment was an option.

Part# AN TI RU ST AGENT.001

IT'S A VW OPTION, THE OTHER TWO OIL RELATED ONES ARE THE
OO7 SMOKE SCREEN OPTION AND THE HANZLE AND GRETTLE OIL LEAK ON THE GROUND TO FIND YOUR WAY HOME.....

You are right Kevin. Of course I have never had a car that did not leave its own personal signature on the floor. This baby smokes and smells like the bug my room mate in college had (1966). Ah the O'du bug.....................I am hoping after clean up the smell eventually goes away. It did in my 914 1.7. I also found a bottle of Mystery Oil in the car. The prior owner claims he was told to use that stuff to protect the lifters.............sounds like a commercial to me. I remember Andy Granatelli telling you to use STP which was just thick crap to plug leaks.

Fred Adler
San Diego

Well he is right about the marvel mistery oil if you have Hydralic lifters. The only thing it is good for on a solid lifter engine is to free up rings and other carboned up stuff in the engine, you can even add it to the fuel and blow the carbon off the tops of the pistons and valves. MM oil is the original engine cleaner from well before my time. Ask some of the old timers about this stuff it's awsume, in fact a lot of the old super charger makers including Judson made you use this stuff with their chagers.

Never forget to listen to your elders, they already made all the mistakes the you are about to ;)

About the smell, hot take or clean the inside of the heater boxes real well (thats where most of the smell comes from)....

Thanks Kevin. I will drop them when I drop the exhaust to refurb it as well since the surface rust is nasty from Michigan.

Fred Adler
San Diego

Fred, do what you want with the wheels, but that would look HOT if you paint them to match the car when it's re-done. Mickey's car has that treatment, albeit in red, and it gets all kinds of attention. He's re-tooling it right now and going for a different look, but it's smoking hot as it sits.
Painted wheels, whitewalls and some baby moons, and you're off to the diner on Friday nights!
Sure is a pretty car!