@IndianBob Sorry about that, Bob. I think the editing time frame is 30 minutes or less.
@Lane Anderson I'd look into the transmission area, under the trunk. MangoSmoothie mounted his under the seat area next to the heater channels. It just needs to be positioned so the gauge can be read, and it can be unbolted for servicing every few years. A long pull cable could easily be routed to the cabin. This way you don't lose any storage in either trunk.....
With the gas tank and radiator up front I would expect there to be insufficient space for this up there, @DannyP. The area over the tunnel under the dash might work, but I expect there to be some A/C ducting there. Not sure how much space there is next to the seats, but that's where I had the extinguisher in the Speedster. I have no real way to know until I see the car.
I think you're talking hand held, Lane.
I was talking about an installed system. But underneath your other trunk, so as not to lose any luggage space.
You know, the one in back, above the transmission? That area.
If I was a more intelligent replica owner I might spring for the system that Danny has, nit no - I took the poor-man's route and bought the Blaze Cut which, in all honestly, is unproven but should work quite well and besides..... I have that extinguisher bottle hung in my door opening as a back-up. We had two extinguishers in every school bus my dad put on the street and over 25 years we used five of them, each time to put out someone else's car fire. Not to say you shouldn't have one on board - YOU SHOULD!
In my past life I was involved in Data Centers (DC) full of servers (computers) and storage systems (wicked big disk systems the size of three refrigerators ). ANY customer was terrified of a DC fire not because of the fire, per se, (they all thought that their overhead water sprinklers would take care of that, silly people) but really because of loss of company/customer data and subsequent revenue. Water sprinklers would put the fire out (eventually) but the servers and storage (with YOUR credit card data or transaction data on them) would be dead because the water would simply destroy them (like what happens when you fall into your swimming pool while cleaning it and forgot to leave your cell phone in the house - oops). So everyone running business DCs of any size back in the 1990's went to highly efficient Halon foggers and intelligent sensors to trigger them.
How good were they? Take a look, from our friends at Kidde:
More modern systems work the same way, by excluding oxygen from the fire for several minutes, but they have migrated away from Halon to less carcinogenic gasses so the DC operators don't have to race out of the DC when the foggers go off.
BTW: Many of the new foggers do not produce a gas that is visible so they add stuff to it to make it visible, kind of like adding stinky stuff to natural gas so people can actually smell it.
Pretty cool, huh?
I will always pronounce it "Kidd-ee"
@Lane Anderson posted:I'm talking both. Remember, this car is mid-engined with the transaxle to the rear. The trunk is over the transaxle with a hump to clear it. See below.
Hey @chines1, any suggestions?
Insurance.
@Lane Anderson
:-)
Seriously though, we run full fire suppression systems in the race cars, mainly because we have to, but it's a good safety measure for the driver and other racers/crew. I have little concern about the race car itself. I tell all of my clients, if you ever have a fire just get away from the damn car and make sure you're safe. Insurance will take care of the rest. In nearly 3000 cars now, I know of maybe 3 fires, all aircooled. Happy to install any fire suppression someone wants though... it can't hurt and its your $$$.
@DannyP the $400 fire system doesn't install itself, so if I'm putting it in and testing it, it'll be a couple thousand ;-) Of course we do it MUCH cleaner than the 356 pictured, but thats another story.
But of course. That 356 install did look a little sloppy. You and I share higher installation standards.
"Insurance."
Smartass. 
If I get one I'll do the install (along with some of my racer building buddies) and then let Danny and Carey critique it.
Oooooo..... You’re opening yourself up to a lot of potential critique, son...
Hope there aren't any brass thingies in that fire system........
One of my freshly painted Ghias had a misfire in a carb and we almost turned the car into a BBQ pit until I whipped out the hand extinguisher. Haggerty's was very nice to me...
Meade
Regarding fire suppression and these cars: At the risk of seeming "dangerous", I really doubt Subaru guys will need them. You likely don't carry an on-board extinguisher in your daily driver, and you probably don't have one in your shop. Computer-controlled cars don't buck and spit and fart like older cars. They don't typically cackle on trailing throttle, or sneeze when warming up. They have no idle jets to plug, no cheesy points replacement modules to loosen up in the tiny distributors they don't have.
Alternately, it's the "simple" cars that burn, especially when maintenance isn't fastidious.
@Stan Galat posted:Alternately, it's the "simple" cars that burn, especially when maintenance isn't fastidious.
And sometimes they burn, even when it is.
Honestly Lane, unless you get involved in wheel-to-wheel racing, I don't think you'll need a system. Especially since you're EFI now.
We have two Subarus in our family, and zero fire extinguishers in either one.
I always carried one in my air cooled speedster.
@Meade posted:One of my freshly painted Ghias had a misfire in a carb and we almost turned the car into a BBQ pit until I whipped out the hand extinguisher. Haggerty's was very nice to me...
Meade
Nice sleeper; hope you got it fixed.
@DannyP posted:And sometimes they burn, even when it is.
Honestly Lane, unless you get involved in wheel-to-wheel racing, I don't think you'll need a system. Especially since you're EFI now.
I wonder how many fires are the direct result of "maintenance." That's why I always run my fuel pump and watch all my connections after every time I've been working on the engine.
I just installed a Blazecut unit. Very limited options for installation but i think it will do what it is supposed to.
Can someone tell me what temperature the engine compartment of my VS Speedy (1915cc) might be reaching while cruising for a couple hours at 65-70 mph on a very hot day (100F or more)?
I think I know where you're headed with that question. The box said Blazecut deployed at 220 degrees. I took it on a 100 mile drive this morning and kept expecting it to happen. My oil temp reached about 200 as I cruised between 75 and 80 for more than an hour. No problem 😊👍.
@PaulEllis posted:I think I know where you're headed with that question. The box said Blazecut deployed at 220 degrees. I took it on a 100 mile drive this morning and kept expecting it to happen. My oil temp reached about 200 as I cruised between 75 and 80 for more than an hour. No problem 😊👍.
I'd been recently thinking about the BlazeCut T100E @ 39.37" length. What's pretty much sold me on this unit is it utilizes a "clean" extinguishing agent that is claimed to be similar to Halon (banned in the US) and Halotron (my Amerex extinguisher). I'm MOST impressed with the description claiming this agent leaves no residue that would otherwise make an even bigger mess in the engine compartment. 
The T100E model specs go on to state the system detonates "when Temps inside the protected enclosure rise above a critical threshold of 120C/248F. I do acknowledge that's damned hot, but returning from last year's West Coast Cruise I was tortured by driving hard for 250 miles in 106F heat. 
More than once I noticed the oil temp "pegging" all the way, so I pulled over, opened the lid, and let the compartment "cool" with the 106 degree air. So-o-o, I really don't think I'm being overly paranoid being a little concerned with a BlazeCut exploding without flames erupting. 
The outside temp here in Phoenix hasn't gone below 95 in weeks. It went as high as 118 a couple of days ago. It has to be getting pretty warm in the engine compartment.
Perhaps tomorrow I'll measure the fan shroud with an IR gun out of curiosity.
At that temperature Paul, you must have to wait till late in the evening or early morning to take a ride. I would get sun stroke in those temperatures.
Here in Florida, assuming it isn't raining in the evening, that's when it cools down enough, mid 80's, to cruise out over the bridge across the Choctawhatchee Bay and watch the sunset.
Midday to early afternoon? Not unless you want to come back looking like bacon.
I feel fortunate to have the Cayman for daytime and the Speedster for evenings. I'm gonna make the most of this for as long as possible, but the Speedie may be on the block come spring. I just don't need as many cars as we have unwisely accumulated and I'm out of room.
I think your oil temps could easily exceed 250F and your heads could hit 400 before your engine bay got close to the Blaze Cut trigger temp. It's not going to spring if there isn't a fire.
@IaM-Ray posted:At that temperature Paul, you must have to wait till late in the evening or early morning to take a ride. I would get sun stroke in those temperatures.
I hear you...but it wasn't just a "ride." I was returning from the SOC Cruise and I was 332 miles from home. 
As it was, I stopped (more like collapsed) after 225 miles and spent the night at a Motel 6. I left early the next morning and finally made it home by 10am. I remember those final 107 miles taking 3 hrs. to go through the San Francisco Bay Area in Monday morning commuter traffic. My only "souvenir" was one helluva Farmer's Tan/burn! 
Trust me, I avoid taking Speedy out of her locker whenever the forecast is more than 90 degrees.
