Searched the threads and didn’t find anything conclusive. Do not have a lift available and will need to jack up the car.
can you fine folks recommend the best/safest jack points and methods for a smooth brain such as myself?
thank you kindly in advance!
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Jack placement & jack stands. Front = under the front axle beam.
Rear = under the L & R torsion plate covers. .
I was going to bring up that Alan's pictures are of a Speedster chassis and this appears to be a question about Spyders, but since the suspension is the same I guess what Alan was indicating is still applicable. Once again the Master speaks the truth.
I’m not positive about a Vintage, but a Beck has a 3” schedule 40 pipe running down both sides at the point where the body meets the pan. I generally Jack there and put the jackstands on the bean and the torsion tube. Just in front of the rear edge of the door and you can get the front and rear wheels off the ground at the same time.
Make sure you’ve got the proper rubber pad in your floor jack head, though.
Just curious. Would a 2 post lift's arms reach the four lifting points Alan showed in the picture? The front axel beam lift points look like they may be hard to get to with a 2 post lift.
@pkdfw posted:Just curious. Would a 2 post lift's arms reach the four lifting points Alan showed in the picture? The front axel beam lift points look like they may be hard to get to with a 2 post lift.
No, the arms won't reach the front but you can set them at the rear torsion plates and the front two lift arm pads at the will reach the outboard floor channels and use a piece of wood to spread the load, so they don't bend the channel edges. I'll post a photo.
Thanks Alan. This helps me understand where to put the 2 post pads.
@Lane Anderson posted:I was going to bring up that Alan's pictures are of a Speedster chassis and this appears to be a question about Spyders, but since the suspension is the same I guess what Alan was indicating is still applicable. Once again the Master speaks the truth.
VMC doesn’t have a rear torsion housing.
@pkdfw posted:Just curious. Would a 2 post lift's arms reach the four lifting points Alan showed in the picture? The front axel beam lift points look like they may be hard to get to with a 2 post lift.
You don’t need to. Like I said, where the body meets the belly pan.
Put the short arms in front of the rear wheel wells and the long arms behind the front wheel wells.
A Speedster chassis is different. It’s box sections made out of 18 ga steel. There are specific Jack point built into the sections.
Woah! Real-deal 550 chassis. Cool pic.
It appears reading comprehension has left the building(except for Rick, he got it).
Chappy has a VMC SPYDER. Not a Beck Spyder. Not a Speedster of any ilk.
The 2" chromoly tube runs on the outside of the seats, just inside the inner wheel well. You'll see either rivets for early cars or self-tapping screws for later cars attaching the aluminum floor through the fiberglass and into the frame tubes.
I jack mine up there, in the front, behind the beam. I'll put jackstands under the lower beam tube. The beam sticks out a little beyond the frame.
In the rear, I jack up the frame tube just behind the firewall and fiberglass bodywork that wraps underneath. That spot is just in front of the rear wheels. Don't jack too far back, the tube angles upward and you don't want the jack to slip.
I've also put the jack under the exhaust under the rear crossmember. There I used a 4 to 6 inch long piece of 4 x 4 under the trans mount. If you have a low jack you can also get the crossmember under the engine/trans. They're all 0.120" wall tubing, very sturdy.
Thank you all.
