Sounds like rotors scraping agains rotor shield. Scrape every half to full rotation. Not . It’s not because there are no shields on rear. only on the front. Have checked, neither wheels or tires rubbing anything. Jacked front and back. Spun each wheel. Totally quiet. Lubed shock bushings. No scraping sound when reversing. Not a bad bearing sound. Not constant. Just annoying.
Any thoughts?
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little anti-squeal spring clips all there?
Do you have drum rear brakes? If so it could be something inside the drum (brake hardware, spring rubbing) or a brake shoe delimitating from the steel
Ok it looks like you have discs, sorry I just re read the post. Check the parking brake adjustment
Check the torque on the rear axle nuts.
DannyP great idea
Hate to ask but where is the parking brake adjustment? Between the seats at the lever or on the back wheels?
Thank you
Danny
it takes a special tool correct? Are you thinking too tight?
@Phisaac posted:Danny
it takes a special tool correct? Are you thinking too tight?
Too loose. If you've got a big enough socket and an impact that'll do 250 ft/lbs, no-- no special tools.
There is a large sping at the too of the caliper, is that the anti squeal spring?
A 36mm socket and breaker bar, plus possibly a 2 foot cheater bar(I usually put at least 250 ft. lbs. on them). I don't consider them special tools if I know I'll need it more than once.
Disc brakes are self-adjusting. The parking brake cable adjustment is usually at the lever in between the seats.
It is possible that the caliper brackets aren't properly centered especially on the rear. That can require a couple washers to give the right clearance for the bracket to clear the rotor.
Thank you all. I will try the easiest first. Parking brake. Then find a 36mm socket and a torque wrench that goes to 250. Mine only goes to 200.
then look at the calipers.
With a torquemeister you won't need a new torque wrench.
@Phisaac posted:Thank you all. I will try the easiest first. Parking brake. Then find a 36mm socket and a torque wrench that goes to 250. Mine only goes to 200.
then look at the calipers.
I found one that goes to 300 at Harbor Freight.
Is there an emergency brake shoe adjustment at the rear hub in addition to the cable adjustment at the lever between the seats?
Paul
Yes
There are two rubber plugs at the bottom of the brake back plate. Behind those plugs are the star wheels used to adjust the rear brake shoes. IIRC, the front star wheel will adjust the shoe for the e-brake and to loosen the shoe you want to make the star wheel turn down as you look at it (to tighten it, turn it up). Use a beefy screw driver or brake shoe adjustment tool to move the star wheel - Be aware that they might be stiff and hard to turn. Typically, you stand really hard on the brake pedal 3 or 4 times, then adjust the shoes out until they drag slightly on the drum. Stand on the pedal another 3 or 4 times, then back them off until the dragging stops.
That’s how to adjust the shoes, but I still think you need to tighten the axle hub nuts before doing any of this.
Thank. I ordered a torque multipler. It will be here next week
once again thank you
I thought you had rear disc brakes? If so, there is NO emergency brake adjustment at the caliper.
!?!?!WHAT!?!?!
You have Disk Brakes?
Well, shoot......
Ignore all that blathering I typed up above. That's for us less classy cars that stop in longer distances while pulling gently to one side. Obviously, Danny, being much younger, has a much better memory for other people's cars than I do.
I still have more hair, though. 
While you're waiting for your Torque-Meister, have you checked the tightness of the mounting bolts for both the disk calipers AND the bracket that holds the caliper to the hub? It's a longer shot, but worth checking out.
Also, is it a scratching sound or a sound more like a higher pitched squeeking?
Sorry for misleading you. gn
@Gordon Nichols posted:Yes
There are two rubber plugs at the bottom of the brake back plate. Behind those plugs are the star wheels used to adjust the rear brake shoes. IIRC, the front star wheel will adjust the shoe for the e-brake and to loosen the shoe you want to make the star wheel turn down as you look at it (to tighten it, turn it up). Use a beefy screw driver or brake shoe adjustment tool to move the star wheel - Be aware that they might be stiff and hard to turn. Typically, you stand really hard on the brake pedal 3 or 4 times, then adjust the shoes out until they drag slightly on the drum. Stand on the pedal another 3 or 4 times, then back them off until the dragging stops.
That’s how to adjust the shoes, but I still think you need to tighten the axle hub nuts before doing any of this.
PLease disregard the previous message.
Fixed it.
I wish I could write concisely, like that.... 
One more question. Do I loosen the axle nut first then tighten? Or just torque them from where they are?
They now may be torqued beyond the recommended amount. If you loosen them first you can then bring them up to the specified amount.
ALL CORRECTED. NO LONGER SCRAPING!
The axle nut was not torqued properly. Now at 250 ft.pounds
Thank you all for you help and guidance.
Paul
That's 2 in 1 morning and still no orange juice on the keyboard- it's going to be a good day...