Screw in studs, Loctite or no?

@79Speedster

I have a 4X130 pattern in the hubs (disk front, drum rear) and then run 5X130 adapters on them for the wheels.

The adapters are mounted to the hub/drum with VW wheel bolts using red Locktite because I can get a socket on the bolt heads and get them out, no matter what.

The adapters have 14mm(?) studs for the wheels and those studs are screwed into the adapters using Blue Locktite, simply because I want them to stay tight but might still want to remove them someday by using double locknuts to spin them out.  

Hope this helps.

We torque thread-in studs (90-14mm, 70-12mm) WITH red loctite.  They take a little heat to remove, but you can rest assured they'll stay in place.

I would use red. A little bit of heat from a Mapp gas torch and they will come out with the double-nut method.

To my way of thinking you don't ever want them to come out unless you REALLY want them out. I also use a little wheel bearing grease or Never-seize on the stud/lug nut interface.

If the hubs/drums/discs(whatever the stud screws into) are iron or steel, red. If the hub section is aluminum, I'd probably use blue.

@DannyP posted:

I also use a little wheel bearing grease or Never-seize on the stud/lug nut interface.

Torque specifications for most all automobile components are based on dry threads/ interfaces unless stated otherwise.  Adding a lubricant obviously changes the coefficient of friction and also the preload for a given input torque. So do you reduce the torque on the nuts by some amount to compensate for the lubricant?

Jason

No,  I don't. I don't like galled or rusted threads. Sue me.

I do like to use some type of lubrication on aluminum to ferrous junctions. Or even aluminum to aluminum. You know, wheels to hubs. That prevents that nasty "welded-on" corrosion.

Thank you all for your recommendations. I greatly appreciate any and all knowledge passed on.

I used red Loctite when I did mine.