What screws have you used that look nice on the door panels and top rail?
i see many available options just curious what others have used that look good. My panels are the baseball glove color.
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Chrome automotive interior " Dress Screws: 2" for the door top rails and 3/4 - 1" for the door panels. If you need quantity, then eBay if you need a few ACE Hardware etc. Don't just run them in with a screw gun / drill pre drill the holes.
You can also search for "Oval phillips trim screw with washer in stainless steel"
That's a link.
The original trim washers used by Porsche are not readily available (except from Porsche suppliers at a few bucks each) and were more countersunk with less flange than what you'll find available in the general marketplace, however we use the modern alternative as they are very close. One thing that I will disagree with above is the use of screws vs. machine screws. In the interest of long term serviceability we try not to screw directly into fiberglass whenever we can. It works well initially, but these holes directly through glass are also easy to burn out and will "waller" out over time, especially if the door panel is removed a few times or someone isn't careful. Thus I would recommend using a nut insert. The aircraft rivet in style are better than a rivnut, but even a rivnut is better than nothing. #6 or #8 both work fine. Countersunk machine screws with a raised head. The look will be very similar to those in Gordon's link. Washers are upholstery countersunk finishing washers in a matching size.
There is still a little debate, even within the restorers, about what is correct in terms of phillips vs. straight slotted. General consensus is that Porsche stopped using the straight slotted and went to Phillips in 1956, however there are several original service manual instructions that reference some phillips pre-56 and some slotted post-56, so we just use phillips on the Speedster as it makes more sense all round.
I agree with Carey, the aircraft rivet in style are better than a Rivnut is a nicer quality installation method over the trim dress screws.
I am not familiar with aircraft rivets. How do they differ from Rivnuts?
The ones we use are shaped like 2 overlapping figure 8's with the threads in the middle and spots to rivet them in place with countersunk small rivets (1/16") on the outer ends. They can be mounted on top or underneath of your surface, depending on your application, but obviously are stronger when you can mount the underneath
What ever type you decide to use, just be sure the washer has a flanged edge rather than a sharp edge that can punch right through your door panel material.
Thanks for your reply, Carey. I still appreciate you making time to contribute to these discussions.
@chines1 posted:The original trim washers used by Porsche are not readily available (except from Porsche suppliers at a few bucks each) and were more countersunk with less flange than what you'll find available in the general marketplace, however we use the modern alternative as they are very close. One thing that I will disagree with above is the use of screws vs. machine screws. In the interest of long term serviceability we try not to screw directly into fiberglass whenever we can. It works well initially, but these holes directly through glass are also easy to burn out and will "waller" out over time, especially if the door panel is removed a few times or someone isn't careful. Thus I would recommend using a nut insert. The aircraft rivet in style are better than a rivnut, but even a rivnut is better than nothing. #6 or #8 both work fine. Countersunk machine screws with a raised head. The look will be very similar to those in Gordon's link. Washers are upholstery countersunk finishing washers in a matching size.
There is still a little debate, even within the restorers, about what is correct in terms of phillips vs. straight slotted. General consensus is that Porsche stopped using the straight slotted and went to Phillips in 1956, however there are several original service manual instructions that reference some phillips pre-56 and some slotted post-56, so we just use phillips on the Speedster as it makes more sense all round.
When I noticed a couple of those trim screws were missing from my 968 I searched everywhere and the closest I found were at Au-Ve-Co. I had a dealer in Las Vegas that would let me look through their huge catalogue, and I bought a box. (of 25 IIRC.)
Appreciate everyone’s input. Funny how everything down to the screws seems to matter. 
Attachments
Images (1)
Depends on how "authentic" you want the car to look. I built my car way before I had the advantage of this site's "brain trust" and I didn't like the look of a bunch of screws holding my door panels on, so I used modern door panel clips, so no screws are showing. It was only later that I realized that Porsche used screws. 🙄
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Pa...gid=pla-568336538584
I don't think that anyone has ever noticed that my panels are screw-less, even though I, personally, may have a few screws loose.
Whatever floats your boat.
@Gordon Nichols posted:Whatever floats your boat.
That's a different thread.
@Gordon Nichols posted:Depends on how "authentic" you want the car to look. I built my car way before I had the advantage of this site's "brain trust" and I didn't like the look of a bunch of screws holding my door panels on, so I used modern door panel clips, so no screws are showing. It was only later that I realized that Porsche used screws. 🙄
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Pa...gid=pla-568336538584
I don't think that anyone has ever noticed that my panels are screw-less, even though I, personally, may have a few screws loose.
Whatever floats your boat.
It’s not just about authenticity. As Carey mentioned, the originals have softer edges that won’t cut into the interior material.
It’s the same with proper carb/manifold nuts and locking copper exhaust manifold nuts. There’s a reason Porsche used that specific hardware.
ps: You nave mad skills to be able to line up those clips. I could never do that in a million years. 
I have discovered that at least some exhaust nuts sold as copper are copper coated steel.
Hmmm. I wonder if it makes a difference. I’m reasonably sure the the box I got fro Au-Ve-Co are solid copper. I’ll take file to one next time I’m down at my storage.
ps: The first time I mentioned Au-Ve-Co I forgot to mention the good news. When I first discovered Auveco back in the 90’s, you had to either go to a distributor or order them through a body shop with an account. (I totally stumbled on them by accident because the distributor in Denver was right next door to the Kennedy Tool Box warehouse where I got my replacement boxes after my garage was robbed)
They have a website now and you no longer need an account to order bits and pieces online.
You don't need to use a file on the nuts. Use a magnet.