sealer question for oil lines...

I don't use thread-tape of any kind on my engine. In my sleep, I dream about a ribbon of thread-tape floating to my crankshaft and plugging up the galleys. I wake up in a cold sweat just as I watch my rod and main bearings galling and destroying my engine. I need my rest, so I just don't do use it. I sleep better that way.

 

They're just pipe-threads. I've used automotive specific thread sealer, and I've used standard-issue TPFE pipe-dope. I've also used a refrigeration-industry thread sealer/locking agent called "leak-lock" on pipe-fittings I didn't want to over-tighten (like the return line from the full-flow), or problem joints.

I'd never use threadtape either---scary stuff insde an engine as Stan points out.

 

I had an oil leak that was traced to the oil pressure sender that threads into the engine near the base of the distributor.  I thought it was leaking from the distributor and went through puttng a new "O" ring on the shaft but it still leaked.  It turned out to be the oil pressure sender.

I tried sealing that with different things with no success until I cot some common pipe fitting goo at Lowes and voila---zero oil leak at all.

 

My engine has always been totally dry until that incident---now with the pipe fitting stuff it is totally dry.  Ay engine stays cleaner too and surely a clean engine will run cooler than one caked with road dust sticking to oil on the engine.

 

Pipe fitting goo from Lowes--a perfect seal without that thread tape---yeah!

Never use the Teflon tape into the mag case. I use red locktite for the full flow pipe fitting to the case. I have used the white Teflon pipe dope on the berg steel plate. The the pump plate is alum I use the red locktite. It is very easy to over tighten the pipe threads into the case and crack the case.

I mentioned "leak-lock"- it's a thread compound that has a consistency of thick pipe-dope, has a thread sealing component, and sets up hard (but no so hard that the joint won't come apart if you want it to). It's a nice product for less than perfect joints (where the threads are not tapered properly, etc.).

 

Any refrigeration wholesaler has it on the shelf, but if they won't sell to you it's available online here.

I use a petroleum safe liquid thread sealer for tapered pipe-thread fittings. It doesn't leak.

 

I also bought the special AN fitting thread sealer for all my lines from Jeg's, works great on all removable fittings.

THANKS TO ALL !!!!

Ok…I pulled the two fitting i had already done with the blue loctite tape….and following the above advice, looked no further then my plumbing box.

'Rectorseal' #5  is rated  for gas oils acids plutonium waste (well, not that last one) with pressures up to 12,000 PSI and temps from -50deg to +400 degrees !!!!

Who Knew???? you guys did.  I've used this yellow sealer for all my nat gas and LP Gas lines and never thought about it as an automotive sealant. Now I have seen the promised land and my eyes are all sparkley and wide. Say "Haul ass to ya"

 

I will let it all sit overnight and do a 'live' test tomorrow morning.

 

this forum is the best !!!!!

 

And there you have it! All done, you'll be good to go!

Follow up…there's always something more……..

My plumbing yellow goop did fine, for the brass to aluminum/mag fittings on the case and at the remote oil filter 'base'….BUT !!!!! the brass to brass, ribbed hose fitting at the case 90 deg fitting and the same, at the 45 deg brass fitting I had at the remote filter base were 'fail'.  Seems the brass on brass threads were NOT going to stop 'seeping' (gerrrrr)   So, I gave up on the 45 degree fittings and put the ribbed hose fittings directly into the filter base, but still had to go brass on brass at the 90 deg case fitting/hose fitting.   I went with Permatex High Temp Thread Sealer, and this product has done the trick…2 weeks and no leaks= happy customer. I'm impressed with this product and wanted to share with you all.

I've got a small (3 oz) tube of that stuff in my road kit.  It seals threads just as you describe it, PLUS you can seal oil-damp parts (after wiping them with a rag but they're still oily) on the road and, after the usual time it takes to put your tools away and clean things up, the sealant has worked and you can drive off.

 

Permatex makes good stuff!