sealing my 356 replica

So I am the proud owner of a 356 replica and I love it! I am "going through" the interior and getting ready to paint it silver. As I am prepping it , I have noticed "gaps" throughout the car where the body meets the frame. Nothing major....but I was wondering what folks are using to seal/fill these types of gaps.
Thanks
Todd

Black Truck bed liner. Paint on black rustoleum paint first.

That expanding foam sucks big time. Use silicone instead.

Congrats on the new car---you are going to have a LOT of fun with it!~

I like the black urethane windshield sealer it's waterproof and weather ready, and you can undercoat right over it.

If you are having trouble getting a tight seal between two rigid parts, especially if those parts are flexing, vibrating, being stressed, et c. I would suggest bedding compound. 3M 4200 is the most commonly used product of this type in the marine industry. It adheres much better than other products to a greater variety of materials, especially metal and fiberglass, it will cure in almost any environment (even underwater)and it stays quite flexible when cured. This is the stuff we use to seal thru-hull fittings (holes in the bottom of the boat) where durable, water-tight seals under stress are a life-and-death proposition. It is only available in white or black, but is paintable. 3M 5200 has even better bonding properties still, but only use it on parts that will NEVER need to be removed, because you will never get it off.

At $12/tube it ain't cheap, but anywhere you might think of using caulk, this stuff will definitely get the job done.

Also, be sure to wipe down any surfaces to be sealed (regardless of sealant used) with denatured alcohol or a stronger solvent like acetone -if it won't melt the finish- until no more dirt or grease comes off on your rag. If you don't, the seal will most likely fail.

Luke's idea is far better than mine! I'd do as he suggests.

The urethane is like ruber when it sets its just as good as the fast and firm body sealer when it comes to flex.. And weathers better its UV proof. You need to get the 3M book.

Jack - What kinds of problems did you have with the expanding foam?

I really didn't like that expanding foam at all, Bruce. It was used in my '07 VS and water seemed to come right around it---it didn't seem to seal like it should. It was used to seal the body to the pan at some points and I took all of it out and replaced it with undercoat in places and truck bed liner in other places.

I see others recommend the expanding foam and some swear by it. All I know is that I had a very leaky car before and now it's dry.

Maybe it wasn't applied well to my car?

I'm sure the urethane (3M 8609) would work admirably for this purpose. If UV resistance were an issue, I might reach for 3M 4000 UV fast cure. I like being able use my fingers to work the sealant into place and to clean up my inevitable goops and drips with plain water and a rag. 5200, 4200, and 4000 allow for that. I guess it is also a matter of comfortable familiarity. There are lots of ways to skin a cat. You'll find one you like. Checking the data sheet is an excellent recommendation. They aren't all that entertaining, but when all else fails... read the directions.

The foam SUCKS!

And one more thing....

Jack- do not sell yourself short. If there is any truth to the reputation you have gained within the walls of this little club, you have more seat time than any other ten randomly selected, so-called "experts" one could assemble herein. One could do far worse than to listen to what you have to say on the subject (any related subject), and then just say, "Thank You" and follow your advice.

just my $.02