See pictures.. answer questions? 8 questions.... thanks.

Ok you should probably just open a new window. go to my pics page and flip back and forth to answer these :)...(am i the only one who has to copy their written message for fear it gets lost when this board tells me i already posted when i open a new window from the posting screen.) - dont loose your post after answering, copy it just in case

1st... My shifter tunnel... confirm... this is not vw... this is fabbed?

2nd... Location of shifter, as I keep looking at many others, I've not seen one so short or far back towards the rear of the car... was this a cmc design thing or preference by the particular builder to change?

3rd... Front snaps on tonnau. i've seen a couple cars were there are only middle locks instead of snaps... why so many snaps for me? again, builder idea?

4th... My front signals are orange... many that i see are white. what is the story behind the difference... what were originals.

5th... My shifter linkage access hole. this is it, how would i replace the shift linkage rod or anything... my shifter is a bit sloppy and makes metal clanking noises often when i shift. when in geat it sure has a lot of "wiggle" - should i replace the linkage bushings and peices?

6th... inner door. I read that cmc only used bondo to bond the door peices together. did whoever built mine glass in some reinforcement here?

7th... see my gauge pics... at 65, after cruising for 10 minutes my oil temp gauge hits 230 and stays steady. oil preasure while cruising sits at 20. car runs fine, no studder or smoke or anything... temp gauge off? should oil pressure be higher at cruise than that? also my tach when the car is cold reads 6k when it sounds more like 2k rpm. it seems off as well.. when idle at 230degrees (supposedly) oil preasure sites at 5? and idle is fine at 900rpm. It used to die, but now that the weather is nicer it no longer dies at idle after being driven.

8th... see this loose extra flap of fiberglass around my lower door frame area inside the car next to the seat. I've not seen this in some cars. should it, could it be cut off?

Thanks all....

The tunnel is fabbed, I saw a guy do this because he wanted and Audi shifter in his car. Looks like the shift is too close to the middle. The floor (under) is strange although cool at the same time. Looks like the pan has been either replaced or made. The tonneau is a matter of choice nothing wrong with snaps over turn buckles. I assume that snaps would be easier with tension stretching it. The amber lense, is OK as well. I know some are white but some are amber. At first I thought it might be a Ghia lense but they are too small to be.

Hi Nic:

1. the tunnel is fab'd - nice job, but the shifter and e-brake seem a bit farther rearward than normal.

2. See #1....I agree with Mike - looks like an Audi.

3. Front snaps - builder idea (but gauranteed to keep that tonneau on through Hurrican Julia!)

4. My front turn signals started out orange, and then I changed to white bee-hives with an amber bulb inside - all personal preference, although I believe that American 356's had white lenses until the 356 "C" when they went to amber, while I also believe the Euro versions were amber all the time (now watch the comments come in!)

5. To replace the shift rod, you disconnect it from the coupler seen in the opening in your tunnel, then slide the rod out of the FRONT of the tunnel - there should be a cover at the front of the tunnel near the front end torsion tubes where you can remove it. There should be a nylon bushing in the tunnel, just in front of the hole shown behind your seats, which holds the shift rod up toward the top of the tunnel, but since your tunnel is a "home brewed" one I suspect that the bushing support was never installed. That might account for the metallic clunking you sometimes hear - nothing holding the shift rod up except the front and rear attach points (come to think of it, how IS it held in there??) The wiggle when in gear is usually due to sloppiness between the ball at the bottom of your shifter, and the socket it fits into on the shift rod, but your linkage might need to be overall tightened up (remember that mid-length bushing....). At the least, you should see if it needs a mid-length bushing, and replace the coupler at the back, and maybe a nylon bushing for the "cup" at the front of the shift rod. do all that and it should tighten up nicely.

6. Well, I have a little fiberglass in that same position on mine, but I also have bondo where the two panels closer to you are (the ones joined with the rivets) and also elsewhere in the doors - a really classy way to bond them together!!!! ;o)

7. I have no oil pressure gauge, and I've only recently added a dip-stick temp gauge so I am not yet a good source of info here. My wife's recently departed Austin Healey 3000 ran 45 lbs of oil pressure when cold, which then dropped to about 18 - 20 at 3200 rpm when hot. I figured if I kept it I would install new crank and cam bearings to get the oil pressure up a bit higher, but it seemed OK for over 75K miles.

8. The loose flap of fiberglass. Mine is glassed to the 2 X 4 frame member underneath it (and pretty poorly glassed to it at that). You might trim it so it almost touches the floor (like an inch off the floor) and then liberally fiberglass it to both the side frame member as well as the floor - that should make it nice and neat.

Hope this helps - let me know if pictures would help....BTW: Nice side scoops on the rear fenders!

Gordon

Nic,

#8 on my CMC The extra fiberglass is there as well. Only mine is riveted to the subframe. I suspect that since it looks like the builder on yours, custom made a pan, that the extra fiberglass may not have fit as precisely. If it is not secured to anything I would suggest that you rivet it to the subframe. The CMC manual suggests glassing this flap to the pan, but I have seen other posts here that have said that glassing to metal may not work well.

Tony , You really have to roughen up the metal for the resin to stick . 60 grit and below works. The rougher the better. Don't forget to clean the metal with acetone before an application. Hey what's wrong with a center console?

Thanks guys...

For the shift linkage... there is a "loop" with a bushing in it, but the bushing as worked its way out of the hole and is just sliding on the shifter linkage shaft. I tried to pop it back in but it wont, i guess that is the metal noise.

Ill look for a forward exit hole for the linkage.

there is not 2x4 outside frame rail - i think it is much smaller than that. but it is square tube. ill look into that too..

just got dual solex 34's... im gona install them.
also got a nice oil cooler and thermostats from cb as well as dual remote filter mounts. :) o no, here it comes the wallet is getting loose for this little one :)

btw, the scoops are NOT on my car, however, i sure wish they were.