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I dropped the 1600cc engine out of my speedster and took it on Friday to the machine shop to have the block and heads bored out to accept 94mm cylinders. After picking alot of people's  brains I decided to go with a 1914cc with a mild cam. I'm looking for low end grunt-the 1600cc was more than adequate at 70-75 mph.

 

My question is about the tranny. It is written in paint 412 on the inside of the bell housing which I assume is stock. A 2006 Vintage build. The present 1st and 2nd gears are really low.The machinist said he could  switch gears and rebuild for about $400-$600 which sounds very reasonable. I am seeking advice from the guys who have switched trannys. What is the gearing of a freeway flyer?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Joel

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Most speedster owners who want lower rpm on the highway go with a 3.88 ring and pinion gear (also know as a freeway flyer).  This will space out all of your gears.  In most cases the 3.88 works fine.  I have a 3.88 in my tranny, but I'm swapping it out for a 3.44, because I want even lower highway cruising rpm.  My 2276 has the torque to handle the 3.44 gearing, but I wouldn't recommend it for a 1915.

So, leave your 1 through 4 gears alone and change the ring & pinion to a 3.88.

Might as well put this all in one place....

 

With a low revving (5000 or so rpm peak?) 1914 you have 2 options-

 1- Stay with the 4.12 ring & pinion and stock gears - 3.78 1st, 2.31 2nd, 1.31? 3rd and .89 4th. You could install an aftermarket 1-2 mainshaft and gears to get what you want, but they run about $500 or so just for the parts.

2- Change the r&p to a 3.88 (would solve the low 1-2 gear issue), but your 1914 won't develop enough torque to cruise comfortably with the .89 4th without overheating, so change 4th gear to a .93. This will get you back to a final drive of about the same as the 4.12/.89 combo. The .93 is the 4th gear VW used with the 3.88 r&p.

 

I used a 3.88R/P and .84(?) fourth in my Spyder..... Did very well....  Spyder weighed under 1500 lbs....   MY latest (CMC) weighs 1730 lb. and uses a stock IRS tranny w/ 4.12 R/P....

The Spyder had the performance over the CMC due to weight and higher H.P.   Both used engines in the 1.9 L. size....

 

If I did the Spyder over again, I would use the .92 fourth gear to keep from diving into third so often when driving in the mountains...   My .02....

Leon, I had a similar experience with my 3.88/.84 combo.  To keep the momentum up, while accelerating, I had to really wind the engine out in 3rd gear.  Even with a 2110 engine 4th gear was a bit of a dog.

Coolryde, I'd love to go with a Porsche 915, or Subaru transmission, but for me the cost of buying the tranny and completing the conversion would be more than I'd willing to pay. 

I imagine the cost of purchasing and installing a 915 or Subaru, with a flipped r&p, would be about the same?  The Subaru tranny is fairy pricey, at around $4,000.

I am running pretty much Stock gears.  I think mine look like this:

 

 

915/70

 

911 Carrera 3.2 Turbo-look (USA/Japan) 1984-86

 

5-speed synchronized transaxle

Manufactured by Porsche (ZF)

Plate-type limited-slip differential available

Rod shift

Single-plate clutch

Gear ratios:

 

1st gear: 3.18 (11/35)

2nd gear: 1.83 (18/33)

3rd gear: 1.26 (23/29)

4th gear: 1.00 (26/26)

5th gear: 0.79 (38/30)

 

Ring and pinion: 3.88 (8:31)

Originally Posted by LongTimeLurker:

I have a 1776 but with CB heads and balanced crank.  It is no beast but can get out of it's own way just fine.  I have the 3.88 and gearing is perfect for the amount of power.  I bought it used so I can comment on gears but it was a 2007 Vintage build if that helps.

4th gear could be .93 (stock with the 3.88 r&p), .89  (stock with the 4.37 and 4.12),  a .82 (stock bus; I forget what years), or any one of the aftermarket 4th gears made. I believe there is a .77, 1.04, 1.12, 1.19, 1.21.... Sorry for getting carried away; the point is, unless you open the transaxle up or chart the rpms at highway speeds you won't know. If I were a betting man I'd go with the .93 or .89.

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