Shamed into it

The sump is more than strong enough to support the engine's weight. I like to put a thin piece of plywood between the 2 so it spreads the load and there's no weight on any specific spots. Are you going to drop the engine first or try to pull the engine/trans back as a unit? While I'm sure it can be done without dropping the engine first, it will be easier by yourself to not be dealing with the engine being up there as well. Al

PS- Listening to Rory Gallagher's "Defender" album while writing this. Love his music! A shame I never saw him though...

The plan is to drop the motor mainly to get it out of the way.  It just seems easier because the Beck frame uses all four bolts connecting the engine to the transaxle as mounts to the frame.  Once you've removed them there's no point in not pulling the engine.

Lane Anderson posted:

...My first (of many) question is what part of the engine should I rest on the jack?  I am pretty sure I shouldn't rest the pushrod tubes, but the most likely spot at present looks like the CB Perf. thin line sump.  Not sure that's good either.  Question #2: leave the Sidewinder exhaust on or take it off?  I'm sure I'll think of more.

#1.  Like Al said, supporting the engine on the sump is fine.  Using a piece of plywood is a good idea to distribute the weight and keep the engine from slipping around on the jack.

#2.  I would remove the exhaust.  It will make dropping the engine much easier because you will have more room to work.  Also, check the clearance between the carbs/air cleaners and the frame.  This may not be an issue on a Beck, but I have to remove my air cleaners and my carbs will clear by 1/2" on each side! 

Good Luck!  You can do it, these things are pretty easy to work on.

James

Maybe I ought to go out into the garage today whilst Irma has me stuck at home and get started.  Nah, I'd rather hunker down on the sofa and listen to the wind.  We're sustained in the 20's and gusts near 50.  Power has flickered a few times but the lights are still on.  Besides, I has the garage full of all of the stuff from the yard so I won't have to go looking for it when this is over.

I'll get the engine warmed up and the oil drained in the next day or so.  Probably start disconnecting things so the engine pull this weekend is relatively quick.

Lane, I use an ATV jack with 2 parallel support points that I got from HF.  On top of those supports I use an old boat cushion to contact the sump.  This gives you support and also allows you to wiggle the engine a little bit to get it off the bolts and get by the frame rails.  Then I placed a scissor jack under the transmission on a creeper or furniture mover and loosened all the bolts holding the transmission in place.   Then I pulled it to the rear with a heavy duty ratchet strap using the frame in the rear. Just enough room to slide in the new mount.  Not a 5 min. job, at least for me.

Oh yeah, don't forget to disconnect the the shift rod coupler.  Duh.  I have a swing axle so your milage may vary there as well. Best of luck and don't pinch your fingers.  Also, this would be the time to replace the rear mounts, but you knew that.

After the hurricane, you may find old boat cushions sitting by the side of the road....

I'll be sure to keep an eye out for one ��

Ok, I busted my tail this weekend and got the engine out and the transaxle loose.  A friend came by and we got the old nosecone mount out and the new one in, but I cannot get the two trans mounts at the bell housing to line up with the bolt holes.  That was enough for today.  Assuming those mounts are the same for Becks as for regular VWs, are they symmetrical fore and aft?  Are they side-specific?

They're the same but they're fiddly. As I recall, you have to install them loose in the bell housing first, then shake them into the frame mount, then tighten everything up. Something like that.

Yes, loose in the bell housing

Okey dokey.  I guess I shouldn't have tightened those four nuts in the bell housing.  Hopefully that is all it is.

Yeah, that's a pain in the ass! Everything loose, get them all started and then tighten.

Make sure you put the same bolts in the same way. I helped a friend with his 356B motor swap and couldn't slide the motor "home". Bolts were too long when he swapped the trans mounts. SMH and not installed by me!

Yeah, the bolts come in from the engine side aiming forward.  That's the only way they'll fit.

So Mike Fincher tells me that there is a front and back to the mounts and guess what,  I have 'em in backwards. Too tired to fool with it today. ��

I don't recall that, but it's been awhile since I've done them. Take out your measuring tape and compare... 

Took just a few minutes to pull the mounts out, turn them around, and get the transaxle in place and buttoned down.  I fastened a few more things in place and am ready to put the engine back in.  I would love to have the car running by end of day Saturday.  I'll need Sunday to get it cleaned up.

Yeah man!

Sounds really great Lane!

The engine is in place and about half of the hook-ups are done.  Got a late start and it was huuuuumid!  I should be able finish up in an hour or two tomorrow (fingers crossed).  Then it gets a good test drive and if there are no problems, a good cleanup.

My Hat is off, Lane.  

That was a good bit of work!

Good to hear!

Hot and humid here to, I keep quitting on my project before I really get going...

Congrats, Lane.  Seriously.

And there are no missing parts, right? 

And no "Brass Thingies" popping about?

One missing nut, easily replaced.  No brass thingies.

Gotta reconnect the wires, reinstall the carbs, put the muffler on, readjust the clutch, put in the last heater hose, put the battery back in, fill it with oil, um...  I think that's it.  Oh yeah, put the back wheels on.  Then take it for a little drive before spa day.

WHAT?!?!?!?

You have a SPA, Too???

Of course.  Don't you have one for Pearl?

Replacing the missing nut....either you did't borrow one of Pam's Tupperware containers to securely retain hardware in one spot or the jack handle suddenly,  flew up ~

You do know that removing the battery was not necessary for this fix right?

In a Beck the battery is in the engine compartment.  It tends to get in the way when lowering/raising the engine or removing/installing the right carb.  It's just easier to remove it.

And it's not like it's YUGE! or something - Lane's got the same half-sized battery that I have, but it just gets in the way back there.  Chris mentioned that when we were working on it, way back then.  

You know....That car is getting quite a history!

Yes it is.  I hope whoever buys it is a serious enthusiast who regularly attends Carlisle and other gatherings.

By the way, IT'S ALIVE!!!  It's alive!!

I need to clean the grease off of it (and me) and put some miles on it this afternoon to make sure it's good to go for the trip.  The spa day will probably be spread across the next couple of evenings.

Great to hear you got it done and it's running again, Lane! How would you describe the task now that you've done it?

One that I do not wish to repeat, Al.  

The test drive of some 20-30 miles went well.  The throttle seems a bit sticky, with a hot idle of around 1300.  I've chased this off and on several times and won't let it stop me from driving.  Something is binding on the throttle linkage.

More worrisome was one of my stalling incidents that plagued me on the last Carlisle trip (2016).  I had thought that I traced it to overfilling the gas talk and getting fuel in the vent hose, causing some kind of a vacuum to be created.  It almost always occurred within an hour or two of filling the tank on the road.  This time it happened with less than half a tank, but still was resolved by popping the gas cap off.  I don't want to be stopping every few miles to do that, but it could be months before it happens again.  It's just seems random except that it almost always occurs when I'm running at highway speeds.  I've swapped fuel pumps, so I am pretty sure that isn't it.  At this point I will probably drive the Speedster, but if anyone has an idea what this might be, I am all ears. 

Lane Anderson posted:

One that I do not wish to repeat, Al.  

The test drive of some 20-30 miles went well.  The throttle seems a bit sticky, with a hot idle of around 1300.  I've chased this off and on several times and won't let it stop me from driving.  Something is binding on the throttle linkage.

More worrisome was one of my stalling incidents that plagued me on the last Carlisle trip (2016).  I had thought that I traced it to overfilling the gas talk and getting fuel in the vent hose, causing some kind of a vacuum to be created.  It almost always occurred within an hour or two of filling the tank on the road.  This time it happened with less than half a tank, but still was resolved by popping the gas cap off.  I don't want to be stopping every few miles to do that, but it could be months before it happens again.  It's just seems random except that it almost always occurs when I'm running at highway speeds.  I've swapped fuel pumps, so I am pretty sure that isn't it.  At this point I will probably drive the Speedster, but if anyone has an idea what this might be, I am all ears. 

Is it possible the fuel cap pressure release valve not working? Could this cause vacuum pressure in the tank that prevents fuel from flowing out of the tank?

Something of that sort is my guess, Robert.

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and suggest you buy a $5 gas-cap.

I got sick of the locking gas cap that came with the car and went with a regular one. @chines1 can give you the model. I think it probably vents better.

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I replaced the locking cap years ago.  I think I'm on my third now.