Hmmmm... am I the only Beck owner that has not replaced my cap? If anyone can pass along a recommendation that would be great. To be honest I just leave the key in the cap all the time 
Lane, you had to jack the back of the car WAAAY up to drop the engine and trans, yes? It's not obvious to me that that would somehow turn your half tank level into a full tank level in terms of the venting mechanism, but just throwing it out there in case.
Other thing is the way heat works fuel vapor. Possibly more heat (or less) than usual when these "random" stalls occur?
Finally: check the vent hose for one of those puffy thick spider webby things. Just blow it out with air and see what transpires.
I'm a small-town white boy, raised to shun safety as being for women and womanly men. This is why my face presently looks like I was in a bar-fight (long story).
But if I had a problem with the vent-hose (or thought maybe I did), it'd take me about 5 seconds to pop off the vent hose and give it a good blow. If it was clear, I'd drive around for a bit with the cap "almost" on, or a rag stuffed in the fill-hole.
If everything was hunky-dory, I'd buy a new cap.
Joe Fortino posted:Hmmmm... am I the only Beck owner that has not replaced my cap? If anyone can pass along a recommendation that would be great. To be honest I just leave the key in the cap all the time
Why do you guys need locking caps? Isn't the filler neck in the frunk? What are the odds of someone opening the frunk and stealing gas?
Joe Fortino posted:Hmmmm... am I the only Beck owner that has not replaced my cap? If anyone can pass along a recommendation that would be great. To be honest I just leave the key in the cap all the time
Joe - I replaced mine when the rubber seal failed and I was nearly overcome with gas fumes. I'm trying to remember if the problem started after that or before.
It's been quite a few years of once in a blue moon stalling. In 2016 it happened several times on the return trip from Carlisle, usually soon after filling up. Pretty sure I've replaced it again since then.
Ed - I had the car up on four jack stands, so the tank was level except for the few moments during the raising and lowering process. I will check the vent tube for foreign bodies as I have considered that a possibility as well. Down here I could have a snake or baby gator in there. 
Robert - The locking cap comes with Becks. I found it more of a bother than anything else.
I may also be moving a fuel line as I think that's rubbing on the throttle linkage on one carb, causing it to not always return to the idle stop. Other than those issues the car is ready for the trip - after a good cleanup.
Rerouted the throttle cable as I had done it in such a way that I lost some length. I think my high idle should be fixed. Couldn't find any blockage in the vent hose. I have several othe gas caps I can try, or I can get yet another one.
You know, way back when, I believe I made a comment to you, Lane, about throttle cable routing, adjustment, and heat. Somewhere around 2008 to 2010 or so, IIRC.
When I built my first car, I had the throttle adjusted with absolutely no slack. That did two things: 1) If you went over a bump the throttle was REALLY sensitive and made the car jerk like you were stabbing the pedal over bumps, and 2) the heat of warming up would make the Morse cable hosing expand enough to give me a 1500 rpm idle.
Just recently I bent the throttle cable bracket up front as I didn't like the angle to the pedal. Well wouldn't you know the old hot engine high idle came back! I bent it less than an 1/8"! So I made a spacer for under the bracket and raised it a 1/2", and Michelle re-adjusted the cable and throttle stop. We should be good to go now.
We all need to leave a little slack in the throttle cable so this doesn't happen, and adjust your pedal stop so you don't bend the throttle shafts, but it's at full throttle.