Shift Rod Bushing

I swear if I have to remove the body am going to freak'n cry!

My shift pattern is no where to be found. I can get into Reverse and 4th without issue, but 1st and 3rd grind, and I cannot find second. When I installed the shift rod, I don't recall having any resistance. My coupler is tight and brand new. I am almost certain that I don't have a bushing in place, and it will need to be installed.

So lay it on me. Did I make my first official big F--- Up? Does the body need to be removed to pull the shift rod out? Are there any creative ideas to fix this.

Todd

Just have to remove the shifter --- bushing is back a few inches. Theres is a metal ring that the rod goes thru --- that ring should have the nylon bushing (or not in your case).

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=157519

which links you to here
http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/bushing_replace.htm

Todd,

First, I would first use a small flashlight and mechanic's mirror to check to see if there is a bushing is in the hanger, you can also visually check it's condition as you move the shifter to each gear location be sure that there is no lateral play...also grab the rod and try to move it side to side.
Second, remove the rear tunnel cover and coupler set screw pulling the rod forward a couple of inches to remove it off the trans nose cone shaft. Grasp the shaft with a thin needle nose vise grip then rotate the shaft L and R then pull it out a 1/4" and again L & R to confirm you don't have a trans issue .

I have done a shift rod bushing replacement with the rod in the car. You first have to get the old bushing out with a hook tool, awl, thin screw driver etc.
It then requires being creative with bent long nosed pliers, add into the equasion skinned knuckles.
I have use a pc. of cut PVC pipe angle cut flush to the bushing to push the greased bushing along the rod tapping the pvc with a hammer to force the nylon bushing into the hanger.
You can't install the 1" spring collar ring (looks like a key chain ring) with the rod in the chassis, you'll have to create a way to loop a piece of twist bailing wire around the bushing being sure that it sets into the spring clip groove on the bushing. Then twist it snug with pliers w/o snapping the wire. A real pita but can be done.

That's funny since I installed it in Jjr's dune buggy in a jiffy with my bare hands; maybe I was just lucky. Just make sure the bushing and the shift rod are greased with plenty of lube; also make sure the gap in the plastic is facing the left (driver's) side; as per the VW Service Manual.

Work me through this. I am able to completely remove the rod I place the bushing on the rod and slid it down back down. Once the rod was back in position, I went to try and set the bushing in place. It does not want to click into place.

Is this the was to do it? Or should I set the bushing in place first and try driving the shaft through the bushing?

Todd

Put the bushing in first and then drive the rod through it. Have someone at the front with a block of wood and a hammer drive it while you guide it; it'll click into place. Also make sure you put the metal ring in too.

Todd, is there an access hole under where your back seat pad will be? If not, this might be a very good time to cut one.
Otherwise, there should be a plate on the front of the tunnel big enough to see through with a flashlight. It'll be on the frame head, held in with two bolts.
If you can have someone hold the flashlight for you and guide you through the bushing and to the coupler at the back of the tunnel, you might be better off than trying to do it blind.
When you get it through the bushing and lined up in the back, don't cap up the shifter assembly until after you've attached the coupler. Put the coupler on the shift rod first, put the bolt through and then move coupler into position on the shaft coming out of the transmission.
If you don't put the shifter assembly on first, you can pull the cup down and to the left, making it easier to ratchet the bolt into the coupler on the end of the shift rod; it'll be sticking end-up with the insertion hole aimed at the clouds. When it's on, line up the cup, pack it with grease, tilt it back to the right, center it between the bolt holes on the tunnel and you'll be in business.
Also, if you have a welder close at hand, or if you can get to one, put a couple tack welds on the coupler itself where the O meets the T (photo), to prevent it getting sloppy in the future.
From my recent experience, my shift rod is also a half-inch longer than I want it to be. I have a harder time than I should getting reverse to work. Might want to have a look at that on yours, too, and maybe save yourself some aggrivation.
Mine was cut where the pans were when the Bug was chopped to make the kit. The library has the FiberFab description on how to measure it:
https://www.speedsterowners.com/library/fiberfaba/images/fiberfaba021.jpg

... and, since I've never noticed or commented on them before, your phone dial wheels are BRILLIANT!

Todd, I just did this replacement this week. Put the retaining ring on the bushing and place it on the tapered section of the shift rod, near where the coupler does to the tranny. Then guide the bushing into place, being careful not to slide the shift rod beyond the tapered section. Once the busing is at the bushing holder, and being held relatively close to pisition by the tapered section of the shaft, reach in and pop it in with your fingers. then slide the shaft the rest of the way through.

Todd, Exactly why do you suspect the bushing? Is it difficult to move between 1-2 and 3-4??? Is there excessive side to side slop?

If none of these conditions exist, try the easy approach first before tackling the bushing.

Remove the (2) bolts holding down your shifter handle. It usually takes a 13mm wrench. Try adjusting the shifter and see what happens.

The shifter body and be moved and thus adjusted and, with luck, that may be your problem.

Well Larry; he says in his post that the car doesn't have the bushing; it definitely won't work well if at all. When we refurbished Jjr's dune buggy we found out it didn't have the bushing (it had disintegrated with use over the years). No wonder the shifter was so sloppy; as soon as we installed it everything was back to normal.

Your suggestion on adjusting the shifter position is definitely right on as the shifter position will definitely dictate how the thing works. Check out these links; they're a great resource:


http://www.vw-resource.com/shifter.html#removal

http://www.vw-resource.com/shifter_bushing_replacement.html

http://www.vw-resource.com/plateadj.html

http://www.vw-resource.com/coupler.html

Often times I look at how to repair things from the easiest to the hardest. He wrote, "I am """"almost"""" certain that I don't have a bushing in place, and it will need to be installed."

My thought was, it's easier to re-adjust the shifter than replace the bushing. If the re-adjustment didn't solve the shifting problem then he probably needs to replace the bushing but, if it worked, he just saved himself a whole bunch of time and effort.

Replacing the bushing is a very important maintenance issue often overlooked until it's too late.