Shift Rod Coupler Surprise! Help!

Looks to have an aftermarket threaded adjuster welded onto the end of the shift rod. This large nut is used to dial in a the shifter rod length - adjustment, had the rod been cut exact,  it wouldn't have been necessary to use it....  In a few  cases I have had to cut the seat base above the coupler away to gain access ,  make the repair and fabricate a sheet metal panel.

Try not to mess up the cardboard.  A new piece from Porsche is $184.

This is what Doc is referring to.

https://www.amazon.com/16-2070...-Buggy/dp/B004K9LVSW

Alan Merklin posted:

Looks to have an aftermarket threaded adjuster welded onto the end of the shift rod. This large nut is used to dial in a the shifter rod length - adjustment, had the rod been cut exact,  it wouldn't have been necessary to use it....  In a few  cases I have had to cut the seat base above the coupler away to gain access ,  make the repair and fabricate a sheet metal panel.

I can deal with the patch job, Just not too sure how easy or possible it will be to remove the threaded fitting at the rod. It does not appear to be welded in. I can’t take the rod out the front, so whatever work needs to be done has to be performed at the rear’s tight quarters. I could try to cut it and use the Empi unit that slides in, if there is enough length left. If not, I may have to get a used shift rod and start from the beginning.

As always Thank You

Tom Williams posted:

Try not to mess up the cardboard.  A new piece from Porsche is $184.

Lord knows we have enough Amazon boxes laying around to do the whole thing!!

When the shift rod is shortened for these cars, is there a splice usually done that retains the factory end or what is the Normal method used to tie it in to the coupler?

The factory end is used, when reattached the hole that accepts the coupler in it has to be exactly on a horizontal. If your shift rod has been screwed up I wouldn't bother trying to fix someone's mess and would replace it.

If the adjustable shift rod end was installed correctly then you should not have a problem.  The “nut” portion with the ID thread is inserted into the cut shift rod and welded.  Then the OD is ground smooth so that it fits thru the shift rod bushing.  You will have to remove the inner adjustable, threaded portion and the jam nut in order to pull the shift rod out thru the front of the car.  

Also, looking at your pictures it does not look like the jam nut is locked against the threaded end that is welded to the shift rod.  I am hoping that you had just loosened this nut.   But it needs to be jammed against the end of the shift rod once the length is set and the small hole for the coupling setscrew is located correctly.  

Hope this helps.  

James posted:

If the adjustable shift rod end was installed correctly then you should not have a problem.  The “nut” portion with the ID thread is inserted into the cut shift rod and welded.  Then the OD is ground smooth so that it fits thru the shift rod bushing.  You will have to remove the inner adjustable, threaded portion and the jam nut in order to pull the shift rod out thru the front of the car.  

Also, looking at your pictures it does not look like the jam nut is locked against the threaded end that is welded to the shift rod.  I am hoping that you had just loosened this nut.   But it needs to be jammed against the end of the shift rod once the length is set and the small hole for the coupling setscrew is located correctly.  

Hope this helps.  

Hey James,

It was as you said, the jam nut was snugg against the shift rod. Let's just say I don’t think my knuckles will ever be the same. After an unspecified amount of time, I was finally able to get the threaded portion out and now I can move forward. I will have to be sure to locate that threaded fitting back in the same position when I reinstall it. With the shifter going in, I could be doing quite a bit of adjusting otherwise at both ends.

Thanks for the reply,

Brian

Alan Merklin posted:

The factory end is used, when reattached the hole that accepts the coupler in it has to be exactly on a horizontal. If your shift rod has been screwed up I wouldn't bother trying to fix someone's mess and would replace it.

The car was shifting ok when I started the project. Just kinda loose and noisy. I can see the bushing is shot. Well I haven’t cut the body yet. Hafta see how the install goes though. Life is good!  I do get to stare at this H coupler until the correct early one get’s here.

Appreciate the help Alan,

Brian

I recently replaced my shift rod bushing with a bronze one.  I will never need to replace it again.  Be sure to get the installation tool.

http://www.ev4unow.com/VWShiftRodBushing.html 

Your shortened shift rod is short enough that you don't need to pull it out the front to replace the bushing.

Michael McKelvey posted:

I recently replaced my shift rod bushing with a bronze one.  I will never need to replace it again.  Be sure to get the installation tool.

http://www.ev4unow.com/VWShiftRodBushing.html 

Your shortened shift rod is short enough that you don't need to pull it out the front to replace the bushing.

 

Hey Michael,

Next time I am going with the Bronze. I replaced the sleeve this last weekend along with the coupler and put in a Vintage Shifter. It is making the adjustments a little more difficult because I changed things at both ends. I didn’t have to open the end cover or cut the body over the rear coupler. The one thing I did to make any future change outs easier was to replace the coupler screws with hex heads. What a pain!! I really hope that was the first and last time I have to do that. It was a kind of initiation for me. Probably many more of those to come .

Brian

A 5/16" square socket fits the original screws.  If your hardware store doesn't have one they are available at Amazon.

Michael McKelvey posted:

A 5/16" square socket fits the original screws.  If your hardware store doesn't have one they are available at Amazon.

Yah, didn't have that one available but the new coupler came with hex heads, no problem in the future ...

Actually, the socket I have is an 8-point socket.

Michael McKelvey posted:

A 5/16" square socket fits the original screws.  If your hardware store doesn't have one they are available at Amazon.

Because 8mm and 5/16" are so close as to be interchangeable. Closer than 1/2" and 13mm anyway.