Shifter

I was hoping to put an angled shifter in my car. I currently have a straight shifter rod, it being a 1971 VW, and was wondering what is entailed in replacing it with an earlier model VW shifter? I know the shift rod coupler and the base of the shifter rod are different - the older ones have a small pin that keeps the angled rod from turning. Is replacing the shif rod coupling difficult?

Replacing the coupling isn't that hard. The earlier one (up to '64 I believe) looks like a cylindrical piece (at least the newer aftermarket urethane versions) while the '65 and up is sort of squared off and uses some square inserts which can be either rubber (stock) or urethane (aftermarket). I can tell you that they're not totally interchangeable due to diameter. First make sure what year transaxle/shift rod you have and then proceed accordingly.

For the stock curved shifter you need tp replace the shift rod replacing it with one that has the slot in the forward edge of the shift ball cup. Good luck getting a shift rod out of a speedster in one piece as it cannot be slid out the inspection cover hole on the frame head because of the speedster's battery box placement.
Options are to bore holes in the battery box walls that are inline with the frame head inspection cover hole or replace the shift rod in two sections....this is not an easy job for a novice and is a time consuming process to say the least.

There are a few aftermarket shifters that have a curved handle but are mounted above the tunnel area in their own "quick shift mounting."

Hey Alan,
I'm a little confused (not a hard thing for me). I think I'm following you on the shift ball cup thing but I'm lost on the battery box thing? I guess what I'm asking is can I exchange the shift ball cup and shifter (straight) currently in my car with the curved shifter and the appropriate shift ball cup? I don't really know what how it all works under there? I've had the current shifter out to paint the shaft so I saw the shifter ball cup was different than the one for a curved shifter. I didn't want to mess with it too much so as to not screw anything up. My battery is located under the hood in the front of my car way up close to the nose. So if there is a way to access the area other than through the opening at the base of the shifter I may be able to do it with little interferance. I was hoping to do a switch because (a) it's a little awkward shifteing with the current short straight shifter and it squeaks alot when at idle (b) I was hoping for a more "authentic speedster look" and (c) I don't really like the look of the t-handle shifters or the ones with the ring on the shifter. Forgive me if I seem "novice" (I am) but I'm willing to get my hands dirty and I'm pretty handy. If it's not too extensive a task I think I could do it, I just don't know how to get to it? I don't know where the inspection hole is? Thanks, Mickey

To remove the exsisting shift rod and replace it with one that has the slot for the curved shifter, it is removed by taking apart the shift rod from the shifter rod universal joint under the rear seat access plate on the tunnel.
Then remove the two 10mm bolts on the oval plate located on the vertical surface of the front of the chassis frame head located to the rear of where the "battery box" is molded in the forward end of the front trunk.
To remove the shift rod, you then reach down through where the shifter mounts and grab the rod with a large pair of pliers working it forward an inch or so at a time and out the frame head oval plate access hole.
....The problem is the speedster's molded battery box is in the way for the rod to travel forward enough to get it out of the chassis tunnel, you would have to remove the battery and bore a 1.5" hole in the front and rear sides of the battery box for the rod to pass through, that still will be difficult as you have to contend with the forward apron below the trunk handle, not impossible but can be a challenge. Be sure to replace the nylon shift rod bushing located just inside and to the rear of the shifter opening.
To feed the replacement slotted cup rod back into the chassis (after putting in the replacement nylon shift rod bushing) tie a piece of wire to it and feed the wire into the chassis tunnel and pull the wire to feed the rod back in until you can again grab it with the pliers push it along through the tunnel and through the shift rod bushing until the slotted rod cup is centered in the shifter opening. Hope this makes sense.

Aftermarket shifter it is then. Alan, thanks for the detailed desription of what is entailed. I know my limits and that is WAY beyond my capabilities and probably not worth the effort for the minor difference. I think I recall someone suggesting welding a more "stock looking" shifter onto an aftermarket unit sometime back in one of the threads. I'll see what I can do. Thanks again, Mickey

Mickey, what I did was take the stock straight shifter to a boday shor and had them bend it at the top. The height works for me because I,m only 5'5. The look is authentic and the work was not time consuming at all.

I have the same concern.

I tried using a shifter from a 65 bus (purchased from "The Bus Boys"), however it didnt work the ball is slightly longer than the Type I shifters so it didn't shift properly. However, I'm still not done exploring this option.

For the time being, I'm solving it in this fashon; I purchased a second shifter from JC Wittney, cut it just below where the rubber boot meets the rod. I'm having a new longer rod welded to the base and I will bend the mew shaft to my liking and re-thread the end for the shifter nob. I can't see wht that won't work, do you?

Thanks-

Glenn Schrubbe

Glen and Chris,
The shift lever rotates in it's seat (coupler) on my car (no biggie because it's straight) I had ordered a curved shifter for and earlier model bug awhilw back, not using common sense on my part I assumed it would fit. The earlier ones (curved) have a pin that fits into a hole in the coupler so it won't rotate. I could cut the pin off but then the curved shifter will rotate and could be awkward when shifting.
Did either of you have these issues?

Micky-

I'd buy an EMPI trigger shifter (short), put a vinyl or leather boot on in, adapt some better looking knob to it, and try to to look to hard at it. I'm guessing you won't, since it will shift about 5 times better than what you have, and be perfectly angled for your car.

I've tried a lot of other (stock) shifters. Nothing else comes close.

For the after market shifters that have the raised base, get a matching E'brake boot, snip the stitching out of the Velcro on the base, cut the boot down to size and with a smile ask your wife if she'll stitch the Velcro back on...There you have it, a matching shifter boot that hides the uglies of the after-market shifter

Stan and Alan,
I'll probably order a shifter this week. Do either of you know if the Flat 4 Eliminator could be modified to have a more "traditional" handle welded to it? I know I can't do it with the Empi Trigger Shifter because of the trigger but I think I remember someone mentioning a modfication to an Eliminator? If I'm not mistaken the Eliminator doesn't require a reverse lockout mechanism. If not I guess I'll do the Empi Trigger and try not to look too hard at it. (ha!)

I changed the shift lever on my 69 pan based Speedster over to a 63 lever with the locating pin by using a Dremel tool with a hardened carbide or tungsten coated grinding tip and modifying the existing cup. It's been a few years ago and the scars are all healed up now, but it was relatively simple. If I remember, you need to cut a hole thru the forward part of the "cup" just large enough to allow the pin on the lever to swivel spherically as the lever is thrown thru the gears. If the hole is not large enough, the pin and cup get in a bind and won't allow the lever to go far enough to go into gear. The reason for the hardened grinding stone cutter is that the cup is case hardened and you will wear down a conventional grind stone and hardly touch the cup surface. I may have used a drill bit once I made the initial opening to ream things out. I did this "in the car" without removing the rods.

Ron, I actually thought of doing that. Though I was afraid I'd screw something up. I am still entertaining ideas of what to do so I may reconsider the aftermarket shifter.

I went ahead and put the Empi trigger shifter in. For $45 I figured it was worth a try. It sure does shift nice nice now! I may be able to get used to the look of it after all. With a few mods to the shift boot/box when I do the carpet I may be able to make it look a little less bulky? At least it gives me a better shifting car until I figure something else out. Thanks to all for you input. Mickey

.... eventually, you'll get used to the '60s muscle-car look, and just enjoy it for what it is- a great shifter that is still surprisingly cheap.

Good choice!