shifter problem

Coming home today after about 200 trouble free miles pulled off the highway tried to down shift to 3rd and had lost all foreward gears no grinding nothing. Reverse stll works perfectly Pulled the shift lever and see no issue there bolts were tight I did find a wire tie attached to the rod going to the trans any ideas?

Broke from the tow Richard

Several related topics using SEARCH-https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=5350

Tie wrap probably held the nylon bushing for the shift rod. I'd check the bushing - then the coupler under the inspection plate in rear seat area - then the bowden tube and arm on the trans. Does clutch still feel normal? - the cable stretches just before it eventually breaks (as individual strands let go).

Clutch seems fine reverse works perfectly except seems to be where 2nd ought to be there is no left right play in the rod will chech the inspection plate saw a pick that Corey posted of how it looks

Probably going to be the shift rod coupler ~Alan

Any suggestions on where to get a shift rod coupler? Part number or anything else. Have no idea which trans is in the car seems to be ok at highway speeds about 3500 RPM at 75 mph. but year etc I have no idea.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D3595

Believe above has the red Derlin/poly urethane vice OEM rubber pieces - so is more precise. 30 year old rubber ones are pretty useless.

Thanks, Went ahead and ordered all the parts bushing, clip, coupling will replace them once they get here and hope that solves my issues.

Richard

Tell us when you do it and we'll talk you through getting the shift lever adjusted.

It's a little tricky to get it lined up, but then you'll be fine.

Hey, while we're on the subject, does the bushing install with the clip on or off? On the to do list.

~WB

http://huelsmann.us/bugman/ShifterTech.html

I saw better article somewhere --- maybe tech area of theSAMBA??? or here?

try this- shifter article+good pictures

http://www.superbeetles.com/Tech_talk/nov2.htm

or just try: www.superbeetles.com

Bill:

If you follow the directions in a "Super Beetle" article, not only will you install the bushing correctly, your Speedster will go faster after the job is done.... Zoom, Zoom!!

Go faster? Huh? Wha?
I want in on this faster stuff!

That job doesn't look too hard. I would imagine mine is due since I've never done it and I doubt the previous owner did either. Although my Empi Trigger shifter seems to work OK. Would I see any noticable improvement?

Forget to include this:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=117282

see 10th image down for interesting clarity on what goes on inside the VW "tunnel". Bookmark this page/site; I have found it informative.
Scott
Add- site referenced on "ShopTalk" http://www.vwdcqinc.org.au/insideabug.html

Scott,

While I had seen the aussie site but I missed the STF thread, that is so clear, I feel more comfortable hacking into the tunnel now if I need to. (cup holders or something)

I used the SuperBeetles.com site for my clutch cable replacement and I think it is a super site for DIY's the pics are informative.

Wolfgang, the site you shared is also tops! I got a coupler in my extras box when I bought my D. I am sure some day I will need to replace the old one.

Thanks for the Links

Dave

Final caveat re: tunnels. Always be advised that model years/designs evolve; an earlier frame/chassis/pan/hardware may not always appear exactly as a newer one (although should be functionally similar). And if a frame has been spliced or re-worked, "measure-twice-cut-once". Then check one more time.

Since I'm going to have to cut an access panel out of the seat to change the coupling any suggestions on how large so I don't lose structural integrity?

I wouldn't cut out any more than necessary to safely gain access or to give wrench or tool clearance. Make a mock-up out of cardboard and tape for an approximation if in doubt. I have read elsewhere that you may not have to completely cut out a hole. Assume a "square" cut: cut three sides, bend open at the "hinge" point, fix your main problem, bend back. Then weld cut lines or double-up the cut lines (overlap) then install heavy rivets. (You might even want to prep the edges with JB weld prior to riveting). All this runs a distant second to welding though-especially since the tunnel is a bearing member and is subject to torsional stresses.
Add-
Should go to an image of "pan shortening"-it's just a visual of tunnel modification which may be cause for a "light-bulb" moment. Good luck!
http://www.lightner.net/manxclub/images/tech-tips/shorten/short09.jpg?Removing+Vw+Floor+Pan+Tunnel+Section&

Richard, I have the same car as you. I really had to peel back the carpet to find the access hatch. You shouldn't have to cut but a bit of the rear seat where it comes down to meet the hump to gain access.
http://speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=texan1&f=shifting+rod+coupling.jpg

I have about 1" of the panel showing in front where the fiberglass meets the hump. Presume I have to cut the fiberglass to gain access to remove the panel. Thought I would make it a permanant correction to the design so if I need access later it is available. Do you think it is better to cut the area immidiatly above the hump where the fiberglass meets or come in from above where the "seat" pad sits?

Richard, when do you plan on the fiberglass surgery? I also have the same car as you and took out my transmission a couple of months back to change some gears. I had to cut out a piece of fiberglass to gain access to the coupler, and somehow managed to cut out just the right size. If you desire, I can take a few measurements and a picture to post. Let me know.

Chuck

Surgery is scheduled for this Saturday about 5 AM or after a couple cups of coffee and befor the Crown Royal gets broke out of course the Crown may come out during surgery. Yes pics and Deminsions will help I do not qualify as the greatest mechanic in the world. But I believe this is one I can accomplish

Chuck,

Please post the information.

Many of us may need it in the future.

As luck would have it, I even saved the piece that I cut out, so I do not need to pull my carpet back to get the dimensions. I left the hole open and just covered it back over with the carpet since the carpet is naturally stiff as it goes over the edge. If you want to recover the hole, the simple way to do it would be to cut a piece of aluminum flashing and use some sheet metal screws to fix it in place, with a little caulk for a good seal.

I used my sabre saw with a coarse tooth wood blade. You will find that cutting fiberglass will kill a sabre saw blade, so use a coarse one. I was very relieved when the piece was cut out to see that it was the ideal size to cut out to access the coupler, at least on my CMC.

The width of the piece is 3.25". The hole is centered over the hump and I used a grease pencil to lay it out. A Sharpie would also work. As I recall, after laying it out, I drilled a hole on the top side to put my sabre saw blade into to start cutting. Picture 844 shows the piece from the side, in the same orientation that it would be on the car. The top dimension from the front of the seat to the edge of the curve, is 2.25". Those dimensions should do it for your surgery. I did not want to cut out more than necessary, and this small hole allowed me to get a wrench onto the coupler and the small set screw for the tranny shifter.

If you need any other information, let me know. Also, Richard, please write up any difficulties that you encounter moving the shift rod forward all the way to where the front tire usually sits. I know that my car does not have a hole in that area and you will probably have to use a hole saw in your drill to open up a place. I think that I will also have to replace the shifter bushing, so hope to benefit from your experience.

I cut a "U" out just above the hump and made due with that.
When you remove the shifter and undo the square lock nut on the coupler you can slide the rod forward a bit to work on it.

~WB

I guess we are not supposed to advertise on this site but a brag for CIP1 ordered Monday from CA and my parts just arrived in MS. Very good service in my book, looks like I'll cut and bolt come Saturday. I got under the car and mine does have the front access panel so pulling the shaft should not be a problem. Will let you know when I either get in over my head or am back in the madness!!!!

Man Richard they must like you. I ordered parts on the 6th and they won't be here until the 16th. That's the one thing I HATE about having to order parts. They take forever to get here (Delaware).

Must be a Delaware thing....

I usually get stuff from Cip1 in 4-5 days, tops. CB often takes 1-2 weeks.

Moss Motors (Austin Healey stuff) used to amaze me - order something today and it was on my porch tomorrow morning, every time.

Mickey -all,

In the future avoid the 10 day bs.... try Bug Stuff in West Brownsville PA. one to two day service and he has most every part in stock both new and good used, most of all Jack knows VW in and out...I have been buying from Jack for 14 years, he also does chassis refurbishing and shortening. ~Alan

Nothing like a lost set screw with no wire retainer my coupling is just that a larger segment with 2 set screws. Now that that is taken care of..... HELP setting the shifter seems to be a real trick. can get 2,3,4 and reverse finding 1st is real trouble any suggestions get me a phone number and I,ll call for help. Nothing like being this close to madness and yet so far away..
land line 601-268-2887
cell 601-297-0351

thanks all
Richard

By the way try a rotozip to cut with fast and clean took 2 min to make cut out.

Uh oh..that may be troubling. The hockey stick(shaft that sticks out from trans.) in the nose cone operates the same selector shaft in the transaxle for 1st & 2nd. It pushes the shaft in for 1st and pulls it forward for 2nd. You could try loosening the shifter bolts and nudging the shifter about trying different positions to find a sweet spot that will select all gears. I'd initially try nudging it rearward.

~WB

Shifter Stop Plate Adjustment
(Reverse Lock-Out Plate Adjustment)


~~~

If you remove the shifter lever for any reason (e.g., to replace the shift rod bushing), you will need to readjust the stop plate. This adjustment is quite sensitive -- the slightest amount of maladjustment can throw things out of whack and cause difficulty when shifting gears.

Note: There are two styles of stop plate -- the older style has square turned-up ends which cup the base plate; the later style has round ends which are flat. With the later type, the stop place can move uder the baseplace more than the earlier type. Regardless of the design of the stop plate, the important thing to remember is that the stop plate must be reinstalled with the tabs oriented exactly the same way they were before removal. If the stop plate is put on backwards when you reassemble things, you will not be able to get the car into reverse.


Before removing the shift lever, put the transmission in neutral and mark the position of the stop plate in relation to the shifter flange to ensure proper alignment during reinstallation.


When removing the gearshift assembly, note how the shift stop plate underneath the main cover is oriented

Well sometimes old and blind don't get it I didn't have the set screw in te correct spot right seater spotted it I will give credit where due.... It's mid 60's so I think I'll go for a ride,

Madness what a concept. Thanks for all your input

Richard

All's well that ends well! Nothin' like fixin' something and actually having it work! Have fun!

~WB

Alan Merklin's last post today should be copied into the knowledge section. Your contributions are what this forum is all about!
PS: (I learned long ago to identify locations/orientations for re-assembly)
Thanks, Scott

You may wonder from Alan's well-detailed post where the shift lever is properly positioned before the stop plate is adjusted.

Well, the answer is wherever it feels comfortable to YOU. There is a good bit of slop allowed in both shifter base and stop plate, so you can kind-of position the lever where it "feels good" for you and then adjust the stop plate to accomodate.

This "feature" was to allow for different positions for different drivers, and the VW mechanics knew how to adjust the stop plate for proper shifts. You can actually move the shift lever up to 15 (sometimes more) degrees from one side to the other and front-to-back and still get it to shift OK (at least most of the time and without popping out of gear anywhere).

The reality was that they were all adjusted the same from a particular dealership (usually because the same guy did the adjusting in that dealership) and the owner/drivers, not knowing any better, got accustomed to however the shifter felt.

gn

This may not help you but is very interesting....

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/how-manual-transmissions_635641.htm

Hey!

I was talking with someone in town today about their VW bug popping out of gear when decelerating in 2'nd. Emailed him Alan's adjustment details and he did them as noted and now he says the gear popping out has been cured. Sonofagun!

We even help the Beetle crowd!

gn

Could use a little help on my rig - got the new to me gearbox in ( thanks Mickey ) and all is good using advise above but the lockout does not work right for reverse ( worked great before on my last tran - empi unit ) and when down shifting from 3rd to 2nd I take a real chance at hitting reverse - not a good thing.
1st gear is a bit hard to find as well.
Any further advise?
Thanks,
Dale