Shifter Tune up

I'm going to be doing my shifter coupling, bushing, etc... and when I took the plate off (I actually cut into the rear seat area when I put the engine in to have better access to the trans nose) anyway, the coupler is RIGHT underneath a beam making it reallllly tough to get to. It's doable but it looks like it's gonna be a PIA. Is there a trick to this or is it just something that has to be dealt with?

You should cut straight up from the access plate and back about 2-3 inches on the seat. I just did mine yesturday. Mne is a cmc so not sure how your's set up.

Get ready, that bushing was a pain in the A$$. Two people would make it much easier on the getting the shift rod through the bushing.

Yeah Bill, I've been doing a lot of reading on this one and everyone says what a PIA it is getting the shift rod through the bushing (insert std Vince/Gerd warning here).
Luckily for me I'll have an extra set of hands around to help.

I'm more concerned with getting to the coupler. Are you saying to cut above the tunnel on the vertical panel that 90's into the rear seat to get better access? Do you patch it up when you're done?

They say you should only have to do this every 20 years or so, which I'm thinking is a good thing.

http://huelsmann.us/bugman/ShifterTech.html (from wolfgang)

Yes, I plan on putting a flange and keep it accessable.
If you search shift rod or couplier, someone had a good picture of there access cut out. I can take a picture later.

I actually put the bushing on the tip of the rod leaving about a half inch hanging off. Got it to th hole and worked it into position.

Make sure to grease the rod a couple inches at a tim through the shifter hole leaving room for a pair of pliers to grab rod and force it to the rear once bushing is in place.

I used a hand held vacum to pick up the pieces I dropped in the tunnel...

OH DEAR GOD!!!! This has got to be the single biggest pain in the ass I've dealt with on this car (and I thought narrowing the rear was a pain). I spent a good two hours trying to get this done today and I'm right back where I started.

How in the hell do you get the bushing in the tunnel ring? It's two inches behind the shift lever hole and you've got to compress in and push it through the ring at the same time with 1.5 fingers, yeah, right!

And next month when I finally get the bushing in, how do you connect the coupler? There is almost no room to manipulate the coupler on to the shifter rod. The coupler can only go back so far (with or with out the set screw in) so getting the holes lined up to run the steel bushing (that the conneting bolt goes through) through the couple AND the shifter rod is literally the equivalent of doing a vasectomy on a fruit fly in the dark on rough seas (don't ask me how I know that).


I've read all the threads and did all the searching. I seriously think this was done before the body and subframe were put on the car. There is a horizonal running piece of 2x2" steel tubing going right in front and almost directly over where the coupler is and there is no way I can cut that!

I'm at a loss here. I'll be back at it tomorrow but I'm not holding out much hope. Would it be easier to just pull the trans?

Mickey, pop a top and get ready cause this is easy to do....

With the shift rod removed, pull the old nylon bushing out of the bushing hanger with a long needle nose pliers.
Install the new bushing by sliding it over a long socket extension "point" it in the direction of the bushing hanger and let it slide down against the hanger, gently push it in the hanger with a screwdriver being careful not to damage the nylon....it should pop in place. I take a bit off the end of the shift rod with a grinder just to allow for a bit of a taper. Grease the inside of the nylon bushing. Slide the rod back into the tunnel being careful not to get it under the heat and E' brake tubes. (I don't bother reinstalling the bushing ring....you can work a piece of wire around the nylon bushing and twist it with pliers if you want)You'll need to push it back further into the tunnel by inserting a piece of 1 x 2 into the front tunnel access hole. Pick the rod up with a piece of coat hanger until it is aligned with the bushing and at the same time have a helper place the 1x2 through the front access hole and than against the forward end of the shift rod, give it a shot with a hammer and the rod will go into the bushing. Then grab the rod with the large needle nose pliers through the shifter hole and work it rearward...Be sure that the shift rod cup is in the up position.

Coupler: Cut a piece of fiberglass seat area away to provide access for your hands. make up a piece of sheet metal to go over the access hole you cut away as the carpet will hide this. ~Alan

There's also a search tool at the bottom of the page for previously-discussed topics. I typed in "shifter bushing" and got this:
https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/search.asp?searchterm=shifter+bushing&byforum=ALL

Alan, the long socket thing is BRILLIANT!!! I already have to hole cut but I think I'll make it a little bigger. Thanks!

I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

Mickey:

DON'T FORGET!!!!!!!

When re-installing the shift rod, measure from the rod coupler to about where the tunnel bushing is in the tunnel, then find that same approximate spot on the shift rod (you can usually see where it's worn a bit). Apply a very liberal coating of automotive grease (something molybdenum based is fine - same as you might use for the front torsion tube bearings) all around the shift rod and about 6 inches front and back from that point.

THEN re-install the shift rod using Alan's instructions above.

If you're really cool, you can drill a hole in the tunnel adjacent to and just forward of the bushing is so you can inject some grease in there periodically with a grease injector tip (looks like a huge hypodermic needle with a grease fitting on the back end. Available from Sears, Carquest, NAPA, etc.).

gn

Mickey, that dumb piece of metal box tubing pretty much settles the bet. I believe you have a CMC.
I had a devil of a time with the shift coupler in my car, so I removed that offending piece of metal while the car was apart.
My solution was to bridge the original gap that the tubing left with a piece that was in line right to left between the B pillars. The original piece was almost directly over top of the coupler; the replacement left me room to work.
A tack weld on either side of the coupler itself is also recommended.

Bushing went in like a charm Alan, Thanks! (I even got the ring on)

If the weather cooperates today I'll try to get the rest done. The cars has been out of commission since May 15th and honestly I have missed maybe 5-6 days of good driving weather, it's been raining here almost daily. That 911 is looking pretty good right now. ;)

Cory,
The middle picture of the cross section (with the level on it), is EXACTLY what I'm talking about. That is a MF'r!!!!

Glad to be of help Mickey ~Alan

Great posts and good info. I found another good set of pics on STF.
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=18781

WARNING! _ IF YOU OWN A CMC (or Old IM for all I know?) AND NEED TO CHANGE THE SHIFTER COUPLER *******SELL THE CAR!!!!!*******

There is no need to put yourself through the HELL of changing that F'ing thing, just but a new car from Carey,or Kirk etc...

I had to drill out the hole in the shifter rod to fit the collar for the connecting bolt because the new replacement one was 1/1000th of an inch too big around. Now I'm letting some RTV tighten up on the coupler bolt because it's impossible to get the nut on the bolt without turning the coupler, but when you turn the coupler the bolt slides out. And you can't hold the bolt and turn the nut on at the same time because there isn't enough room to do it from one angle so you have to do it from opposite sides which requires two hands. Get some help, one might say; excellent point, but no one can help hold anything BECAUSE THERE ISN'T ENOUGH F'ing ROOM to work!!!!! Absolutely 100% stupidity (or more likely never considered) when they "designed" these things. Any other places on these cars that may require attention in the future yet at 99% unaccessable? Cuz I can't wait to get started on that project either.

Yup, you're right, Mick.

Sell the CMC and buy a Beck.

Your blood pressure will go down and we'll all live longer.

Mickey, that's way funny! If I were closer, I would assist with your speedster woes. ~Alan

LOL...I just went through this pain in the A$$ job myself!

But I did manage to get the shifter placed in perfect position on the first try. Car runs like crap though.

Geez, I'm sorta glad I didn't try this a week before Carlisle! Not only for the PITA part, but I've picked up many tips and tricks to do it.
Instead of using the tube and lagbolt that came with the coupler. I found a long shoulder bolt to try along with a Nyloc nut. I still can't see how they expect one to start that lagbolt into the alum. tube whilst holding the opposite end from spinning. I couldn't get it started on my workbench!

~WB

Mick, I don't have the mechanical know how that the rest of these nuts have but I am always available to help. Reading these threads I am in awe of the knowledge floating around this site. I might actually learn a little. Give me a call next time you need help.

Stephen, be careful what you offer that guy.
Mickey used to be happy-go-lucky ... ;)

Bill is right ....a long shoulder bolt along with a Nyloc nut is the way to get it done easily. ~Alan

Well, that was a lovely little experience. I finally got it all back together today as well as got the new apron tin cut. Now all that's left is to clean up and heat sheild the engine compartment, move the MSD (maybe), do the driver side floor drain (waiting to get engine back in first)fix the hi beam and reverse light issue (not working) install an oil temp/pressure guage, install a battery cut off switch, install the roll bar, and that ought to do it.

Hoping to get the engine done and back in this week but I'm not holding out much hope for that. I've developed a very "Zen" like attitude when it comes to my car lately. I think the burnt piston last month really kicked my ass. So my point is, it happens when it happens. Speaking of which - Hey TC, where you at with the ebrake handle and steering wheel adapter? As long as I have my car ripped apart again I may as well get as much in there as I can.