shifting rod coupling...

Question:

Under the rear seat of the stock bug was a trap door allowing access to the shifting rod coupling. Do I need to cut a similar door under the rear seat pad in the Speedster body for east access to this coupling?

What make of Speedster?

CMC Speedster C / Roadster

Mark
Check on the rear deck (seat) There is a plate screwed to the deck on my VS.
ed

I have a CMC - C. Had to cut an access hole in mine, then make a cover for over it. Biggest problem was trying to figure where to cut and how big a hole to make, since mine was a used vehicle that was never really finished, drivable but not finished.

there is nothing but smooth uncut fiberglass under my rear seat pad. I think I am going to feel around on the carpet on the shifter hump today... otherwise I am at a loss. I will cut a hole in the rear seat pad area but, I don't know an exact location..... any CMC guys out there know what your car has or what you do about this problem?

thanks Jeff,

any idea where and how big your hole is?

If you still haven't solved the problem by monday, I'll take a pix of mine. They should be the same.
ed

thanks Ed...

Mark!

DON'T CUT INTO THE FIBER GLASS AREA UNDER THE SEAT!!! That's not where the shift coupling is on a CMC!!

Pull up the carpeting over the central tunnel just in front of the rear seat area. If there isn't an access hole there, then you will have to cut one in. Be carecul cutting - you can't go very deep before you start to hit cables and so forth inside the tunnel.

The hole I put in my CMC pan starts 26" rearward from the centerline of the shifter, and goes for 4" right up the the stepped bulkhead for the rear seat but stops there. A bigger hole is better (for easier access) and mine goes completely across the tunnel (left to right) and is covered with a piece of sheetmetal curved down onto the sides and attached with sheetmetal screws.

Tried getting a picture, but it's all carpeted and secured down and I couldn't easily get the carpet up (it's under the seat mounts).

Gordon

My CMC doesn't have an access hole either. I believe that when they shorten the pan, the original access hole area is deleted. Judgeing by the position of the chassis# would the area behind it be the place to cut a hole?

BD

Bill, I have a CMC body, which I shortened the pan. The shifter coupler hole should be from where the fiberglass of the back seat hits the tunnel...... forward. a 4-5" hole is fine( stock hole is oval) if the center of the hole was 2 1/2 inches forward of the verticle glass of the back seat, that would give you a 5 inch hole.
Like others have said don't cut deep, you may run unti "Plumbing about 1/4 inch deep.


GClarke "The vacaville Guy"

thanks guys! I just felt around on the carpet and can feel a lip which maybe the cover but it is running into the fiberglass lip which turns up in front of the rear seat pad. It seems like more than hlaf on the panel is covered behind the body. This is on the tunnel where it starts to flare out. Am I getting warm? So, if I cut anything it will be the vertical area raising up to the seat bottom?

Mark: You should be cutting only on the top of the tunnel, from the place where the tunnel meets the forward, vertical lip of the back seat bottom, then forward toward the gearshift lever about 4 inches. The hole can be as wide as the tunnel. I cut mine with an air-powered cut-off wheel and only went in about 1/4".

got it! thanks Gordon!

I have this shift coupler. Theres a tube that spans the urethane inserts with a conical washer and a bolt. Which end does the bolt go in and where is the washer supposed to go?
~WB

Traditionally, viewed with the coupler (small square head bolt hole) facing upwards, the metal tube slides in from the driver's side, the conical washer fits onto the long screw with the small end out and the wide end against the rubber/urethane insert and this screw goes in from the passenger's side.

Obviously it really makes no difference what slides in on which side, as long as the washer goes small end out, big end in. The metal tube projects out of the insert a little bit and the washer cups over it, so even this part is common sense once you see it all in place.

The little square head bolt goes in the top and seats in an indent in the hockey stick shaft protruding from the transaxle end housing.

Make sure that this seated properly and tightened well. Then safety wire it in place.

Easy Peasy really.

Luck!

TC

Thanx TC, sometimes the simplest of things screw your mind up!

On my CMC about half of the original cover plate is exposed in front of the vertical part of the rear seat.

I am hoping I never have to remove it because it is embedded in the urethane foam I sprayed in there.