Roland is about the only guy I would go to. I went to other well-known shops too as they are freinds of Rolands and we went there to show them the finished (okay ... almost finished) car and I think Roland has actually shown them a few tips in the past.
I have a 2275 with a stock welded re-ground crank, H-beam eagle rods, Street Eliminator heads (42 / 37.5 ) with double springs, 48 Webbers (one of the last sets of new ones I was told), match ported intakes, Forged pistons (9:1), 09 dist with points (going to electonic today in the shop for ease of use), 1 1/2" custom headers that use 1 1/2" inside the heater boxes too (need heat in the winter), and a custom one-off collector with a SS Magnaflow 2 1/2" inlet/outlet muffler.
I spent about $1800 with VS upgrading the IRS tranny too. All the slick stuff and if you want the name of the outfit I'll ask Roland again but he said it would handle approximately 300HP no problem. 2000lb clutch (upgraded because he said the motor would spin a smaller one). 3:88, welded 3rd and 4th, billet side cover, etc, etc, etc..
The motor has been flawless so far. I ran it from VS up to Ventura with no issues (other than a blown fuse and having to wrap that in foil to get my headlights back) - but the car ran VERY strong. I know it's running cool - not because of the zhitty gauge (as noted) but because there is an external thermostatically controlled 2 quart fan with a 180 thermostat. I never saw the gauge run further than about center after we hooked up the cooler - and before the cooler it got up to about 3/4 on the gauge in 90 degree heat/traffic. All told I think it's holding 6 quarts with the coolers, lines, and external filter.
I have body issues that Kirk is trying to work out as we speak, but I guess the long of the short of it is that if you want a really good car from anyone - you have to be there to inspect it and relay your expectations. I have no doubt that the issues can be worked out - and that this will be a really well-fit car, but the trip in to relay those expectations will be the difference between a good car and a great one.
Check ride successful, body issues being taken care of, blemishes repaired - so the next trip this Friday should be one where I don't have to spend a lot of time there - or get my hands dirty.
Roland can be reached at 562-472-3838. As mentioned, he is the guy who takes the stock 1600 engines VS buys and makes them into 1914's - but I can tell you that the total engine upgrade was only $2,350 (VS credited me $2k for no motor - so a total of $4,350 including custom headers, the engine install, break in, and powder-coated tins). He is the best guy to talk to also because he builds more speedster motors than ANYONE. He's a fairly laid back dude and hangs out with some serious HP heads that build type I's. He even took the time Saturday afternoon to go on an 80 mile run with me to check the car on the road, called me Sunday to ask if everything was cool Saturday night, etc, etc, etc.
I kept asking about break-in and he said, "90% of it is done when it comes off the engine stand....". He runs the engine on a stand to break in the cams, rings, etc. As we were driving I noticed the motor finding its groove as the rings seated and the motor loosened up a bit. He said after the valves are adjusted (after a couple of hundred miles) that the car is best broken in on the highway - which is why I took it to Ventura up PCH and the 101 Saturday night. By Sunday morning, when I dropped the car off on my way to the airport, it felt like it was dialed in dead-on. Idle was smooth, throttle was crisp, power was smooth all the way to 5,000 - etc, etc, etc....
PS - The tape is areas that I want repaired or tightened up before I take delivery......