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Bob,
First of all your speedster is not stock height. John notches them down a couple inches when he builds them. Unfortunately, he doesn't install adjusters so you'll have to adjust it the hard way by turning the torsion bar splines. You can attempt to do it yourself and you'll find Gordon's instructions in the knowledge section. I had mine done by a local mechanic. He raised it up an inch.
If you have it done may I suggest the addition of adjustable spring plates. Then you'll be able to make height changes easily.Don't go with the cheapies. Talk with Bruce at Eyeball, I'm sure he can reccomend the proper ones.
Bob, just a thought. When your man is adjusting the torsion rods, ask him to use a cutting wheel and mark with just a pair of nicks in the metal what the new "normal" looks like. If there are already marks there, you'll probably want to zap them with a touch of paint so you don't get them confused.

It's not relevant if you go to the same shop all the time, but if you don't mark them as to what's "good" and then take it to someone else, they might try to ... correct ... what they see as out from spec.

With regard to gas shocks, those GR-2s will absolutely, positively, jar your molars out of your head on the street. By extension, they're also going to jar the crap out of the body-mount bolts on your chassis, eventually cracking the fiberglass. Same-same for your windshield, Nader bolts, transaxle and engine.

I had 'em for a while, but went back to stock Beetle oil-filled ones, and now my car's as comfortable as it can possibly get on Washington, D.C.'s lunar-surface roads.
Good deal, Bob.
My other thoughts are that your problems might not be totally solved.
Even after I raised my rear end an inch I still dragged that muffler occasionally, especially with a right seater in place. My permanent fix was to replace the muffler, which I discussed in an earlier thread. Other options would include stiffer shocks or, in your case, utilizing your new adjustable spring plates.
As far as other thoughts on performance? Ditch those chrome boat anchors they call wheels and go with a set of alloys. ;-)
Good input, Cory. Will tell Scott. No shocks now. One thing at a time. Good help here. Notching the level is smart. Thanks

Terry, Not familiar with alloy wheels????? Would like to know more. if possible. Went to flowmaster website couldn't find a muffler with inflow and outflow on same end of muffler as is my A-1. If you get a minute unconfuse me. Alloy wheels, huh? Thanks for all your invaluable input.

Bob and Luftig
Bob, take a look at this photo:

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u316/WardAutomotiveGruppe/tpnuckels/030.jpg

It shows the u bend out of the collector and into the Flowmaster Hushpower muffler. The tailpipe exits the opposite side of the muffler. I know you like a center exit exhaust so you'd have to do a couple of U bends to make it work. With the limited space available it might be impossible.

Regarding alloy wheels, I have Mahle wheels which were an option for the 914. It was considered the lightest dealer-optioned wheel offered for the 914 with a 4 X 130 bolt pattern. I also ran a set of Pedrinis for a while and Fuchs had a 4 bolt option as well. Superior offered an alloy wheel called the Turtleback and, of course, you have the Riviera and the Empi 8 spoke, but they're a bit heavier. The repros are also heavier than the originals. If you have the bucks you can have a set of minilites made. Centerlines and Ercos are super light but the offset make them an impossible fit unless major modifications are made.

As in cycling, the lighter you can make your wheels the better your vehicle will handle, both in agility and rolling resistance. of course, that goes out the window if you mount a set of heavy, low-performance tires on your light wheels.
You've done so many suspension mods already on Luftig. The addition of lighter wheels would make it glorious.

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