I have a shocking question? I'm currently running an adjustable beam with avis adjusters, 2.5 inch drop spindles with a standard height gas shock. Is anyone running this setup with a shorter shock? ,I've read that running a drop spindle requires a shorter shock (Rocky Daiheitsu application).
Thanks,Michael
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This is one of the advantages of drop spindles; the drop is accomplished by offsetting the spindle, so you get to run standard height shocks (unless you've wickedly dropped the beam as well) that are valved for a front end that is similar to the (VW) donor car. A car that is dropped more than 2" or so with the beam will need shorter shocks, but if the beam is close to standard height, stay with a VW shock. A lot of people find a gas shock on the front too hard, and claim the car rides better with a replacement oil shock. There is a middle ground; where KYB's and Bilsteins are full gas shocks and stock oil shocks aren't enough, GR2's are lighter pressure gas "assist", and I've heard good reports on them. Al
As Al mentioned, gas shocks are not recommended for the front-they're too stiff riding.
GR2s are a good choice, and if you really want to upgrade you can go with Konis, which are adjustable.
Thanks Ron & Al, I'll go with the GR2's.
As a side note from an earlier post I thought I had a toasted oil cooler fan (new) but found a tie wrap I had used to hold the wire bundle out of the way had sagged from heat and was interfering with the fan blade. It was slowing it down enough to cause it to overheat the fan motor because the day after this incident I jumped it and it made a short noise (finished cutting the tie wrap) and ran just fine.
I have a fuse on the incoming #30 terminal on the relay but it never popped so I guess I need a smaller fuse as the fan is rated at 5 Amps but not sure if that is running or start up draw.
x2 on the KYB GR2's
I wouldn't be too concerned with the start-up draw. Fuses require current above their rating for a certain amount of time before they fail. For example, this 10 amp "fast-acting" fuse (http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1633611.pdf) will carry 13.5 amps for 0.35-600 seconds before it fails, it'll carry 20 amps for 0.1-5 seconds. A "slow blow" type fuse can increase those times many fold, so they deal with those initial current spikes even better.
The fuse is really there to protect the wiring, not necessarily the attached devices. And because of the above issue, you wouldn't put a 15A fuse on an 18 gauge wire even though the wire is rated to 15A. Worst case, if you put in too large a fuse, the circuit resistance might be too high (undersized wiring or corroded contacts for example) to blow the fuse even if you have a short. And "high" in this case can still be less than 1 ohm. You always want to use the smallest practical fuse.
