Shortening the clutch cable?

What is the best or proper way to shorten the clutch cable? I cut the old cable, drilled out the screw end where the old cable went in and was crimped in place and then cleaned the whole works and brazed the cut end into the re-drilled screw end. It looks good but have no idea how strong the brazed connection is. Would it be safer to just use a cable shortening kit?

I must have shortened 15-20 clutch cables exactly the same way as you just did when I was messing with Dune Buggies back in the 60's and 70's. Never had one pull apart (I brazed mine, too) even with heavy duty Kennedy clutches.

Lately, I've been buying new cables and taking them to a sail boat rigger and he swedges on a new end for me, but I figure the cost is around $30 per cable in the end. Still, I know the guy and it's always good to chat about sailing for a while ;>)

Thanks Gordon, I thought about having that done as well but tube that the cable goes through has an acute bend that doesn't allow the cable with an end on it to pass through so I had to put the cable in and then place the "screw end " on and actually do the brazing inside the engine compartment before putting the engine in. I don't have a lot of faith in my brazing ability. I guess I could just wing it and hope for the best.

...or you can buy them already shortened from Vintage or JPS.

Plain old cable clamps (I use 3) and a stock - cheap - Beetle cable work for me. Just don't saddle the "dead horse".

The sail rigger option worked for me. But buyer beware: if your car is purpose-built vs. a strict pan build, it is possible that the pedal to clutch distance is not exactly what some might think it to be. i.e., a ready-made shortened cable might not be the right length for you. Such was case for my car. Pedals just a scousch(?) farther fwd and so cable as much too short. Had to have another made to my specs so all could be adjusted correctly. sail rigger did it in about five mins. I believe that a brazed joint should work just fine also, if you know what you're doing. Use the right silver solder and flux and you should be good to go.

Bob, I used the same trick on E-brake cables but with 2 tweeks.

I cut and drill the rear cable end then drill two ( 1/8 ) small side holes along the bore. Then braze into the side holes while I have wrapped the cable with a soaking wet rag as close to the end peace as I can get it. While brazing on the end, When you see Brass coming out the end. STOP! Let it cool down slow .DO NOT QUENCE IT!

Makng sure you have it the correct length. Is a bit tricky. JUST check and recheck. Then check it again.

They hold up very well..

How about just go hydraulic??

Yup -- hydraulic is the answer, seems to me. Have seen several appications, and while there is a bit of business to be applied at the tranny end, all seems pretty straight fwd. the hard part is dealing w/ the Speedster "firewall" up front: cutting a hole in the FG to make rookm for the master cylinders, etc., then resealing? In a Spyder, I think there is plenty of room, so easier.

I have all the stuff to convert over to hydraulic, but probably won't get to do it for a few weeks. I'm looking forward to getting it done, though, and will keep y'all posted.

If it's not busted, Don't fix it. If your tunnel tube is in good shape Just do a cable..

Now if you have a unfixable tunnel tube falure ??

That's a different thing. But you will have yourself a job with some expence to upgrade it to hydrolic.

I seem to remember a S10 Blazer that was extremely troblesome to make work. and the master failed 3 times in less than a year.. If you can get good High quality parts.. Go for it..

But you have been warned.