shortening the vw pan

I bought a speedster Intermeccanica from a friend it needs a lot of work. The barn it was stored in collapsed cracking the windshield and causing stress crack in the fiberglass. The pan is shot and I want to replace it. I found a pan I just need instructions for shortening so I need some help. If anyone can help that would be great. I want to save this little car.

When you say the pan is shot --- do you just mean just the floor area or the center tunnel, transmission mounting horns and front beam header too? The floor pans can easily/cheaply (parts are $200) be replaced with reproduction metal or even nonrusting fiberglass ones. Benefit of just replacing the floor pans is that you don't affect the vehicle's title (VIN) at all. You do have a good title right? You're in for a huge job if you plan to shorten and swap the entire pan. On how to shorten take a look at the CMC build manuals in the library.

Here ya go Jimmy.
http://www.meyersmanx.com/garage/garage_shorten_p1.htm

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=134758

As to the pan being shot. This little car was more a portable bath tub after the barn fell in. The rust goes beyond the replaceable pans. I looked at the offered site for the cutting directions. Do these apply to the speedster as well? Not worried about the fabrication I have my own shop I just need to make sure before I cut the new donor pan. I do want to say thank you for the quick response. Some years ago I ran a restoration shop and would have loved having in put on many issues. I never tire talking with gear heads their some of the smartest people I know.

The dimensions are different (shorter) from a dune buggy to a speedster. The Speedster is shortened 11.81 inches by cutting out 10 inches in a delta pattern and then overlapping the edges and welding the pan to arrive at 11.81" shorter.

Go to the "Library" tab at the top of this site, get the manual for 1984 CMC and print pages 8 - 14. that will show you how to do it.

You can also use the Meyers Manx info to help explain things better.

gn

If I'm not mistaken the proper way to shorten the pan for a Speedster is to cut diagonally; check out the CMC manual in the Library section.

Ricardo is right ane while you doing it here are a few things you Might want to include or at least think about

(1) Add the down the middle heater pipe like it says in the knoledge pages. for better heat

(2) Before you cut the tunnel drill Off and cut the bottom tunnel plate to re move it while you workin and welding it will allow you cut an miss the clutch pipe an hrottle pipe And let you to weld it better and even plate the inside with extra metalIf you want to.

(3) Cut the clutch cable pipe and excelerator pipes lose at the rear of the forks first insuch a way that you can spot them back after you pull them back through the rear forks and be careful not to nip them when you cut the tunnel zig zag cuts And its best to cut just forward of the E brake and heater controls or you will likey distroy them .

(4) If i had it to do again I'd rob scraps from another old tunnel. And rework the fork area making it straight down the tunnel all the way to the K frame. Why? To make room for better seats that can go back futher for a taller driver. (If you have ever seen a real 356 the tunnel is a square thing Not a U You could cap the tunnel with 2inch angle iron to even make it look correct and make it stronger

(5) Get the deeper floor pans.. Again for the taller driver If you ever sell it.OR if you have a tall freind, they will thank you for that.

(6) I like the old hand wheel heat control best and yo may want to convert it to that before you closes up the bottom

(7) Before you distroy your old pan make some rails out of steel that bolt at the 2 bolt mounts at the front of the floor pans and at the rear corners of the floor pan. Make sure it fits your cab. Try them on it.

(8) Level the beam and the K frame and keep the the tunnel straigtht and level. Check and re check the level points at every chance or step you take.