shortned pan drawing

I am shortening a pan, more like reconstructing the entire thing between the 2 bulkheads due to rust and the requirement to keep the VIN. Labour is cheap here in Thailand and pans are non-existent so there is really no choice.

The CMC instructions leave a great deal to be desired. Does anyone have a dimensioned CMC shortned pan drawing?

Surely the center tunnel is still there and not rusted. All that really rusts are the pan halfs which are easily replaced with aftermarket ones (~$80 USD each)or custom bent sheet metal. Requires chistling or grinding off old spot welds, rewelding new in, sealing and then repainitng with POR15.

The centre tunnel is the only good part and both front and rear bulkheads have cancer at the outboard corners. Forward of the front bulkhead is bad as well.

The only solution is to fabricate a new pan, retaining the rear bulkhead and VIN, as well as the front bulkhead for body mounting. The fabricators here are very skilled and cheap so making a new front bulkhead is not impossible.
Importing a new pan is impossible due to the VIN issue.

I can have this done cheaper than doing it myself, but need to give them a drawing.
So - anyone have a dimensioned drawing of a pan shortned per CMC's crappy directions?

Sure.....look a few threads down from this one, and find the one by Joe Soltis - he's already found one for you......

Or look here: https://www.speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Jogyver&f=vw+pan+dimensions%2Ejpg

robert,
CMC's directions for the method of shortening the pan is correct. There is/was some controversy over how much you should remove to achieve the correct wheel base. I'm not sure exactly what dimension the replica Body expects for wheel base.
Alan Merklin may be able to give you the dims. as he's done a few of these. (he's around this site a lot)
I'm not sure The Pan dimensional drawing Gordon mentioned is for a full sized pan or a shortened for Speedster pan. I assumed you need dims. for the finished Shortened pan.
Check the forums on this site. The CMC/Fiberfab manuals are posted. Compare them to your's. Again, the Method of cutting the pan is correct in those manuals. You'll have to get a definitive answer from a builder as to how much to take out.
Main things to consider: (of course it should still be plumb and square when completed)

Clutch tube:
If you're going to hydraulic linkage disregard: Clutch tube must be anchored SECURELY at both ends and several spots in between. This tube MUST NOT move when clutch is actuated.
Make sure the bends in the tube are gentle enough to be able to pass the threaded adjuster end of the clutch cable through it from the Pedal end.
Heater Controls:
If you're going to run heater boxes and plan to actuate them from a single lever, verify that the tubes and cables are directed to that lever.
I hate doing this next one, but it does make it easier to replace clutch cable and/or pedal assy:
Cut a window in the tunnel on opposite side of pedal cluster across from the pedal assy.
Shifter Bushing:
Replace it! It's easier to do now than when the build is complete.
Thats the basics,
Greg

The drawing referenced is for a standard pan. What I am after is for a pan shortened to fit a CMC per the posted instructions.

In any case I am basically constructing a new pan. The overall dimension is stated as "58.5in from the outermost of the two holes on the front of the chassis, to the forward mounting hole on the rear shock tower".
Outermost to imnermost, outermost to centre, outermost to outermost, .........?

Is this just poor English and do they mean the forward edge of the body mounting hole on the rear shock tower?
Seems an standard centre to centre measurement would be less confusing.

Does it matter?

Perhaps my engineering mind needs a clearer answer.

Robert

robert,
As noted in a previous thread:
"There is/was some controversy over how much you should remove to achieve the correct wheel base. I'm not sure exactly what dimension the replica Body expects for wheel base."
The Manuals don't really give centerline to centerline dimiensions.
Check mounting holes of the BODY that you are using. The dimension or distance between these have to match the corresponding holes in the PAN.
Greg

I think the CMC manual tells you how much to shorten the pan. You can subtract that from the unshortened wheelbase to get the new shorter wheelbase.

The CMC pan shortening instructions are pretty straight forward and begin on page III-1. They even tell you how to make a couple of 2 X 4" bars to locate your two halfs very closely when assembled for welding.

Page III-2 in my CMC assembly manual shows a pretty good picture of the pan, and they measure from the center of the two holes at the outside of the bulkhead (the vertical piece that the brake master cylinder mounts to) all the way back to the body mounting hole on the forward end of the top of the rear shock absorber towers (which also lines up with the center of the rear torsion tube, but about 8 - 10 inches higher up). THAT dimension is 59", and THAT is where you use those two 2 X 4's you make up to position the two pan halves and make them straight.

There's also a long discussion of how to remove, cut, reposition and re-weld all of those little tubes inside of the tunnel.

I have the later of the CMC manuals, and mine says "Third Edition 9/91 Copyright 1991" on the opening page. I believe that is the same as the later copy in the "Library" section of this site.

gn

Therein lies part of the confusion. My manual 6/85 gives that dimension as 58.5"

It would appear that the 2 pins in the 2x4 fit in the respective holes, therefore it is a centre to centre dimension.
Will measure the body and build a proper jig accordingly.

Robert

This will be vague, what I have done is measure the ____" wheelbase of the speedster from center of hub to hub, do a X measurment and 3,4,5 triangular measument for squareness and for being straight. You can use the drawn cut pattern in the CMC manual as a guide, the CMC manual exact cut/splice measurements doesn't matter all that much as long as you have the speedster wheel base correct.
We did one by hand (aka sawzall) then for the heck of it set it on a Data-liner frame table, it ws close as possible to being on the mark.