Agreed Clark. Some cases don't need machining for even a 76mm crank. That and some 94mm pistons(which WILL require machining) and you've got a 2109. Now we're talking some good displacement!
I meant to ask but are you considering different engine sizes/types/configurations because you're having a car built? Or do you have a roller and you're looking for a suitable power plant to et started until you can afford something better? Pardon if that has already been answered, if so I missed it.
My two sense. If your building a motor from scratch and buying a crankshaft, then buy a 82mm stroke. Costs for a counterweight 69mm or 82mm is about the same. I suggest a 90.5 piston/cylinder set with forged pistons. Set of scat or cb ported heads and it depends on your budget as for what we use. Good set of rocker shafts along with several other pieces. New case (check deck and machine for 90.5 p/c, and machine for full flow), full flow oil pump and cover. Additional oil sump, remote filter, remote Setrab oil cooler with fan pack. There’s also new cam & lifters, decent distributor and ignition, and a good fan shroud with offset cooler. I prefer a stock VW shroud because it has the vanes and flaps to direct the air. Most stuff sold these days don’t. If your not using the heater then use a DTM or CSP porsche fan set up. You sound as if you have a mechanic which is great. Just keep in mind it’s a VW motor, not a Chevy. It takes time and patience to build one to last.
Robert M posted:I meant to ask but are you considering different engine sizes/types/configurations because you're having a car built? Or do you have a roller and you're looking for a suitable power plant to et started until you can afford something better? Pardon if that has already been answered, if so I missed it.
Ah I probably should have explained this upfront, thanks for asking!
I’m having a car built by Greg of Vintage Motorcars of California (the guy who built Spyders for over 20 years and moved into the old Vintage Speedster workshop after that company relocated to Arizona).
I had ordered a 1915 from him (which has a bunch of CB Performance parts on it) and was considering getting a bigger engine from him.
Since I’m not handy with a wrench, am stretched for budget, and have little free time on my hands to tinker under the hood of the car, I’ve opted to go with the 1915 for now and then maybe upgrade to a Pat Downs engine later down the line.
Anthony posted:My two sense. If your building a motor from scratch and buying a crankshaft, then buy a 82mm stroke. Costs for a counterweight 69mm or 82mm is about the same. I suggest a 90.5 piston/cylinder set with forged pistons. Set of scat or cb ported heads and it depends on your budget as for what we use. Good set of rocker shafts along with several other pieces. New case (check deck and machine for 90.5 p/c, and machine for full flow), full flow oil pump and cover. Additional oil sump, remote filter, remote Setrab oil cooler with fan pack. There’s also new cam & lifters, decent distributor and ignition, and a good fan shroud with offset cooler. I prefer a stock VW shroud because it has the vanes and flaps to direct the air. Most stuff sold these days don’t. If your not using the heater then use a DTM or CSP porsche fan set up. You sound as if you have a mechanic which is great. Just keep in mind it’s a VW motor, not a Chevy. It takes time and patience to build one to last.
Thanks for the input, I’ll definitely refer back to this feed whenever I upgrade the engine. This feed is PURE GOLD 👍🏼
By the way, here is what Vintage Motorcars of California is using to build my engine. Not that I really understand what any of this means...
1914cc VW Type 1 Engine
New as41 case
CB performance heads
CB performance crank
CB performance cams
CB performance magna spark distributor
Kadron Carbs /with heater boxes for heat system
On a side note, seems what some of you are saying it true - there are so many variables which influence the performance of a motor and not all 1914 engines are equal.
I was told that the mechanic (who now works at Vintage Motorcars California, but used to work for Kirk at Vintage Speedster for several years) says that Vintage Motorcars California’s 1914 runs better than Vintage Speedster’s 2L did.
The things to find out are which performance camshaft and which performance heads will go into your engine?
I spoke with Greg recently and the improvements he’s making on the motors are great. I would request the case be machined for a full flow oil system. Not the cb oil pump with the in and out on the cover. They work but I am partial to tapping the case since it’s less restricted. One other option would be to request Weber carbs (40idf). Not the empi copies!
Speedster posted:
...I was told that the mechanic (who now works at Vintage Motorcars California, but used to work for Kirk at Vintage Speedster for several years) says that Vintage Motorcars California’s 1914 runs better than Vintage Speedster’s 2L did.
You'll have to ask him why that is...
ALB posted:Speedster posted:
...I was told that the mechanic (who now works at Vintage Motorcars California, but used to work for Kirk at Vintage Speedster for several years) says that Vintage Motorcars California’s 1914 runs better than Vintage Speedster’s 2L did.
You'll have to ask him why that is...
He mentioned that it’s the higher quality components such as CB performance parts and that he’s found the right mix over time and experience building the engines in house.
Speedster posted:By the way, here is what Vintage Motorcars of California is using to build my engine. Not that I really understand what any of this means...
1914cc VW Type 1 Engine
New as41 case
CB performance heads
CB performance crank
CB performance cams
CB performance magna spark distributor
Kadron Carbs /with heater boxes for heat system
On a side note, seems what some of you are saying it true - there are so many variables which influence the performance of a motor and not all 1914 engines are equal.
I was told that the mechanic (who now works at Vintage Motorcars California, but used to work for Kirk at Vintage Speedster for several years) says that Vintage Motorcars California’s 1914 runs better than Vintage Speedster’s 2L did.
A 1915 with mostly CB parts will be head and shoulders above a Mexi-crate 1915. It will beat it every day of the week and twice on Sundays.
Robert M posted:Speedster posted:By the way, here is what Vintage Motorcars of California is using to build my engine. Not that I really understand what any of this means...
1914cc VW Type 1 Engine
New as41 case
CB performance heads
CB performance crank
CB performance cams
CB performance magna spark distributor
Kadron Carbs /with heater boxes for heat system
On a side note, seems what some of you are saying it true - there are so many variables which influence the performance of a motor and not all 1914 engines are equal.
I was told that the mechanic (who now works at Vintage Motorcars California, but used to work for Kirk at Vintage Speedster for several years) says that Vintage Motorcars California’s 1914 runs better than Vintage Speedster’s 2L did.
A 1915 with mostly CB parts will be head and shoulders above a Mexi-crate 1915. It will beat it every day of the week and twice on Sundays.
Great to hear I’ll have one of the better 1915s Robert! Sorry noob question but what’s a mexi-crate? Learning so much on this thread.
Speedster posted:Robert M posted:Speedster posted:By the way, here is what Vintage Motorcars of California is using to build my engine. Not that I really understand what any of this means...
1914cc VW Type 1 Engine
New as41 case
CB performance heads
CB performance crank
CB performance cams
CB performance magna spark distributor
Kadron Carbs /with heater boxes for heat system
On a side note, seems what some of you are saying it true - there are so many variables which influence the performance of a motor and not all 1914 engines are equal.
I was told that the mechanic (who now works at Vintage Motorcars California, but used to work for Kirk at Vintage Speedster for several years) says that Vintage Motorcars California’s 1914 runs better than Vintage Speedster’s 2L did.
A 1915 with mostly CB parts will be head and shoulders above a Mexi-crate 1915. It will beat it every day of the week and twice on Sundays.
Great to hear I’ll have one of the better 1915s Robert! Sorry noob question but what’s a mexi-crate? Learning so much on this thread.
VW crate motor from Mexico. Pretty reliable stock motors but not a lot of power out of the box.