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Those are some SWEET pipes, everybody!
Here are the two configurations I'm thinking about right now while it's cold and dark out. All of my exhaust ports vent directly downward (the only curse of the 2366 Type IV I got for a song), so I have to start my pipes by cutting the J-pipes in half. My main limitation is going to be ground clearance, which might be less than most.
The top drawing is a standard collector and J-pipe setup with a single, short Flowmaster and three-inch output. The pipes meet under the frame horns at the back end of the tunnel. (This is my most practical option.)
The other two drawings are the setup for a single turbo. The four pipes will have to come out from under the engine and meet up in the collector slightly to the passenger's side of the tranny. The collector dumps into the hot side of the turbo and the Holley 750 feeds the cold side.
I've watched Jimmy Sartwell do this on several six-second eighth-mile drag cars, but I'm not sure whether I want to do this turbo thing or not on a street car with a more-or-less stock transmission.
I've also got a choice of going to a twin-turbo setup, using significantly smaller Maserati turbos; drawings to follow. Suggestions are welcome!
Cory
You probably all ready know, but reading your above post I feel I need to point this out: The T-IV exhaust ports DO NOT exit straight down - they exit down and outboard about 10 or 15 degrees. As a result you can NOT install a one piece header. All T-IV headers come in at least two or three pieces. That angle difference is what makes header install a bit of a pain. That and the fact their flange bolts are semi-hidden way up inside the air cooling fins. One installation secret is to know that the flange securing nuts are available in 11mm, 12mm and 13mm hex sizes. All three will fit on the same exhaust stud. While 13mm are preferred for their larger clamping force, you will probably need a few of the smaller sizes in order to get tools on them to tighten. Got a detailed install sheet for a BAS 21152 header. Send off-line Email if interested. Other T-IV headers come with short down pipes and separate flanges. They appear more user friendly, but I do not have experience with them.
Here you go, Dave. Can you shed any light on this?
It's the only photo I have which shows the heads. I'll have to take a better shot with the ports after Sartwell's hung this thing in the car. The old engine was the 1641 with the red fan shroud on it.
I'm not primary wrench-turning-man on this project, but I value the advice!
Incidentally, I'm pretty sure there will be no turbo. I realized last week while talking to Jim the Mechanic and reading your comment that I've got a lot of ideas and not nearly as much knowledge as I need to turn them into metal parts, so I'm going to stick with the KISS principle.
He'll keep turning wrenches and I'll keep cleaning parts.
:)
David, you're right. Mystery solved!
The heads came from a bus.
The engine has a bit of a checkered past, reportedly in at least one 912 and one 914. Sartwell got it secondhand as a horse trade, and had been using it to hold his garage floor down for a couple years.
He offered it to me for what I thought was a pretty good deal; he'll be freshening up the engine and putting a split-case tranny together with an interesting mix of off-the-shelf VW gears (all for the same $2K).
In exchange, I'll keep washing parts and welding. I'll be happy to relay any questions, but he suggested you were exactly right, both about the hex-bolts and the oval, off-from-true ports.
He says he's going to probably make everything but the flanges, the collector and the muffler, so I'll be sure to take lots of pictures.
I've got some photos of other cars he's done somewhere. I'll look.
Cheers!
This exhaust is too cool not to post. The guy working on my car built this from existing parts and exhaust tubing and said it would be okay to post it here.
He used the original flanges and connecting parts, a collector and some other small bits, but bent the pipes and wrapped them a segment at a time so the whole works could be removed in about 20 minutes with minimal dissassembly. I thought it was worth posting, since it's a turbo Type IV.
This isn't mine; again, I just thought it was cool enough to post.

Here are a few shots of the system with the welds done and the paint cured to a very flat black.
The impression I have, or impressions, are that there is waaaay too much engine in there for the little go-kart. The feeling of being over-powered and the go-kart comparo really didn't hit until I strapped up all five points and realized that there's very little creature comfort designed into the frame or the cockpit.
If I hadn't put the dead-pedals in, there wouldn't be any creature comfort at all!
Back to the noise -- you may have to use your imagination and work with me here, but it sounds like a Cessna with a three-inch Flowmaster directional SPAM can on it while it's at idle. When you really put your foot into it, though, I'd say it sounds -- honestly (ask Angela) -- like any V-8 muscle car you've ever heard.
Lovely. Just lovely.

Attachments

Images (3)
  • 110706 header I
  • 110706 header II
  • 110706 low muffler
Sorry to dredge up this old thread and then photobucket it, but I might have arrived at something here. Anybody ever use a muffler like this one?
The Wrench is going to connect it using one bend to the front and then a J-pipe back into the muffler itself. We're going to see how it sounds before Jet-Hot gets the header.
If it sounds good, we'll keep it. If not, well ... I'll be dumpster-diving for more pieces, I guess.

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m231/paininthebug/DSCN0161.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m231/paininthebug/DSCN0162.jpg

Y'all remember how the old muffler stuck down like the car was taking a poop, right? No time like the present to fix that ...

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m231/paininthebug/DSCN9689.jpg
Looks killer Cory. And your next set of pix will show us the heat shields - right?

I had better than two inches clearance between my 4-1 collector and the rear valance, but the fiberglass still got so hot I could barely touch it. That can't be good for the paint. An aluminum heat shield made a huge difference.
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