Greetings all!
Ok, sidewinder header is on and the full flow setup won't allow the normal full size filter. Anyone else had this or is it just the combination I'm using? A shorter filter will most likely work but be close to the header. Thanks in advance.
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a) Relocate the filter housing (I prefer this)
b) Try the shortest filter with header wrap around the pipe that is close to the filter
..........Photos?
I'll take some tonight. Thanks!
When you have time, I'd recommend moving your remote oil filter.
My filter is aft of the left rear wheel and is a good distance from the nearest exhaust component. I am using a Wixx 51515R filter, which is full sized.
+1 more to moving the filter.
Me 4 (this took so long it looks like it's me 5!
)- the best thing is to move the filter to the left rear wheelwell. Is it a filter/pump combo or is it on a separate housing and there are hoses to it?
And just a note- the 51515R is designed for a high rpm (waayyy higher rpm's than we would ever dream of winding our little beasts; think Nascar or something similar here) racing engine with much larger bearing clearances that will pass some 28 gallons of oil per minute and only filtering down to 60 microns, it's burst strength rated at (iIrc) somewhere around 500psi. The Wix 51515 (or Napa equivelant, made by Wix) filters down to 21 microns, will pass 8-9 gal/min. and has approx. 300 (290?) psi. burst strength, all specs which are more suited to even the most high strung VW street engine. The 51515 casing is more than strong enough, a street VW engine (even one that turns over 7,000rpm) will never come close to pumping 8 or 9 gallons a minute for more than a few seconds and will catch particles that are 1/3 the size of what the R filter is capable of. The only filters I know of that is capable of filtering significantly smaller particles are the Purolator Pure One and Canton filters which both claim to filter down to 8 microns. The info on the Purolator is a few years old so you'd have to check specs that they are still being made the same way. The Canton has a disposable filter cartridge inside the housing- https://www.cantonracingproduc...on&category=2501
Yeah, I know about the difference between the 51515 and the 51515-R, but the non-R is a little longer and is very tough to fit in the spot between the frame and fender. I've used both, but the R is muuuuuuuuuuuuuuch easier to get in and out. Also, the last non-R I used was slightly ballooned when I removed it. I figure I'm safer with the R unless you have another reason for the ballooning.
Sorry for the hijack, Boothy.
If you've got so much pressure that you're distorting that filter casing, Lane, you have something else going on, although I don't know what. Do you ever run it hard before oil is fully warmed up?
Nope, at least I don't think so. I suppose that could have been an anomaly because I've only seen it that one time.
Hernia on your oil filter?
Hey, ya nevah know!
You know, Anibel Chico was always really proud of "the claw" for a remote filter. I always thought it was a pretty awkward place to mount one, given it's close proximity to the exhaust pipes, and the fact that the entire mount is hanging from the hottest point on the entire engine.
If you have to move it anyhow, perhaps mounting it on the frame rail on the driver side in the rear wheel well would be a better choice?
Yeah, that's a whole lot closer to the exhaust than mine is.
Done. Cooler and more oil. To the frame then with some long pretty plumbing (I'm a sucker for the braided line stuff).
Thanks all!!!!!!
Boothy: What Stan has described is where I put my filter mount for the same reason - you're pumping oil out there to get cool through a cooler, too, (usually) so it makes sense to attach the filter mount to the frame and not transfer more heat from the engine.
Mine is attached to the driver side CMC box frame. I'm using a remote mount from NAPA for a Ford filter (like an FL-1 or WIX 1515) and it allows the filter to hang down (not too low) as well as the hose fittings for easy attachment. The engine hangs lower than the filter so no problem there. Also, if you run a MOCAL thermo switch you use the same mount and just attach both lines from the external cooler to the MOCAL - very neat.
That does sound cool. Thanks Gordon!!!
