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I took advice from another post and re-routed the heater air to bypass the frame on my Vintage Speedster. I used the same tubing that VS does.

The air volume is about double, I'll wait for autumn to see if it's also hotter. But I suspect it will be now that it's not going through that metal frame.

A simple but big improvement!
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I took advice from another post and re-routed the heater air to bypass the frame on my Vintage Speedster. I used the same tubing that VS does.

The air volume is about double, I'll wait for autumn to see if it's also hotter. But I suspect it will be now that it's not going through that metal frame.

A simple but big improvement!
This is another one of those "I wonder why the manufacturer doesn't just do that" issues.

I'm not sure how others do it, but both Vintage and JPS route the heater box air from both sides of the engine through the body/frame tubing (not the tunnel). Cramming all that air from both sides into a single smaller body/frame tube is where the air flow is severly restricted.

Alan's method of routing through the tunnel is the most effective way and like he said, "will roast you out." The FiberSteel kit uses flexible tubes (one from each side) to bypass the body/frame tube and connect directly to the existing flexible tubes that travel along the sides of the car up to the front wheel wells where they enter the compartment. Not as effective as Alan's method, but a very big improvement. Here is video of the increased air flow.
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