Simpler Valve Adjustment?

Is this adjustment sequence a viable alternative to the traditional sequence?

At TDC:
#2 exhaust
#3 exhaust
#3 intake
#4intake

Rotate pulley 360 degrees:
#4 exhaust
#1 exhaust
#1 intake
#2 intake

I'm not sure why you want to bounce from side to side. Many years ago, I posted instructions on how to easily adjust your valves...

Print this https://www.speedsterowners.com/knowledge/article.asp?id=206 be sure you read everything as the first part is for a mid engine and the second part deals with a rear engine

You an engineer by any chance, Carl? :)

Larry's posted: FOR REAR ENGINE CARS:

Standing at the rear of the car, rotate the engine clockwise until the rotor points at the #1 spark plug wire and the TDC is up, at 12:00 and aligned with the crankcase split.

Start by adjusting #1 then rotate the engine "counter clockwise" 180 degree's and adjust #2. Rotate the engine 180 degree's counter clockwise and adjust #3 and finish by rotating the engine 180 degree's counter clockwise and adjust #4.

#1 cylinder is located closest to the front of the car on the right side, #2 is located closest to the rear bumper on the right side of the car. #3 is located closest to the front of the car on the left side and #4 is located closest to the rear bumper on the left side of the car.

Makes more sense since it's not difficult to rotate the engines. Not only that but doing it the traditional way allows for doing one side today and the other another day - helpful if someone's waiting or the day is miserable hot or cold.

Just be sure that the engine's stone cold, as in not run at all yet that day.

Larry, you're right, I would be 'bouncing from side to side' on my back...on an uncomfortable creeper dolly...but I'd only have to contort my old arthretic bones TWICE on that dolly instead of FOUR times.

...and Ken, you're right too. I'm not an engineer. I don't even have the normal God's given quota of common sense....and I guess that's why I own a speedster!!

When I did the rotate counter-clockwise routine my bolt holding the crank pulley came loose.

Now I rotate clockwise and adjust 1-4-3-2.

Carl, don't be so hard on yourself, live and learn!!!!

Michael, Your pulley bolt was too loose, that's why it loosened up... 1-4-3-2 makes you jump from side to side. I've been doing the counter rotation valve adjustments since the 60's with no problems.

If you insist on turning clockwise, then once you've done #1, rotate the pulley 1 complete 360 degree circle plus 180 degree's and do #2 then rotate the pulley 360 degree's and adjust #4 then rotate the pulley 180 degree's and adjust #3. If you choose to do it this way, you stay on one side of the engine as you adjust the #1 and 2 valves then again for #4 and 3.

I've been setting up VW engines the same way as Larry since 1965 and it's always worked right the first time. Always got a lot of criticism from people "following the book" but I learned it that way from a Porsche racing engine builder.

I also agree that if your crank bolt loosens up then it wasn't tight enough in the first place. It's supposed to be at 33-37 ft. lbs. stock, and I tend to run higher performance engines at around 40-45 ft. lbs.

Whoa! Why turn the motor backwards? Never got that. There's no rule ya gotta start with #1, just skip it till last. Just pull the cap....line the rotor up with #4, fine tune tdc on pulley and start there! 4-3-2-1 advancing ahead (clockwise) 180 after setting each cylinder. no switching sides or turning the motor backwards. George Brown turned me onto this years ago. Easy Peasy!

~WB

it doesnt get any faster than this:
http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/valve_adjustment.htm

That's how I do it.
Glenn has a way of simplifying things.

For 50 years I have been setting up for #1 but then turning 180 degrees and adjust #4, turn 180 and adjust #3, 180 and adjust #2, another 180 and adjust #1, That way you only move your tools and creeper from one side to the other once.
Also I put the rear up on jack stands to give me more room.
Never turn your engine backwards.

That's not any faster. I do it the same way except I'm turning the motor the way it normally runs 4321.
I say tomato and you say to-mah-to.
Tom: You just reiterated what I posted above.
~WB

It doesn't seem like it is all that hard to move the creeper. I do think I will try starting at 4 as Wild Bill suggests.

When I had the crank pulley bolt loosen I had the plugs in and was working against the compression.

Larry said....
"I've been doing the counter rotation valve adjustments since the 60's with no problems."
>>>> That's how I learned the drill in '69. Never a Problemo for me!

as long as the valves are closed on that cyclinder, it doesnt matter how you get their. bill