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When I got my Speedster on the road the car pulled to the left when I put on the brakes. I had this checked and as I thought the right caliper was frozen so the left was doing all the work. I had a new caliper installed. No biggie....

Then I noticed that the pedal went ALL the way to the floor when I apply the brakes. I mean all the WAY!!! So I had the brakes bled since I was not equipped to lift the car a local mechanic did it. It worked for about 5 hours and now every once in a while it will go to the floor AGAIN. And then a few minutes later it will be OK.

What the %$#@&^!!! (Heck)

Is it possible that the pads are too thin that adjusting the star nut will never be enough? I am looking to fix it for the summer because I am seriously thinking about disks as a winter project. Or maybe disk in the front...

1957 Porsche(Speedster)

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When I got my Speedster on the road the car pulled to the left when I put on the brakes. I had this checked and as I thought the right caliper was frozen so the left was doing all the work. I had a new caliper installed. No biggie....

Then I noticed that the pedal went ALL the way to the floor when I apply the brakes. I mean all the WAY!!! So I had the brakes bled since I was not equipped to lift the car a local mechanic did it. It worked for about 5 hours and now every once in a while it will go to the floor AGAIN. And then a few minutes later it will be OK.

What the %$#@&^!!! (Heck)

Is it possible that the pads are too thin that adjusting the star nut will never be enough? I am looking to fix it for the summer because I am seriously thinking about disks as a winter project. Or maybe disk in the front...
When you said you "had" work done, if you mean you took it to a garage and are still having brake problems I would find another mechanic. Brakes come in handy.

I don't mess around with brakes. If the car is older I would replace the current master cylinder with German OEM just for principle. Ditto the rubber brake lines. Depending on how the brake fluid looks I may consider replacing the steel brake lines too. All of these parts are cheap compared to an accident or injury.

Sometimes mechanics get in a hurry and don't take the time to fully bleed air from the brake lines. If when he is finished working on your car, and the rear brakes are adjusted and you have good pads up front, there is no reason the brake pedal shouldn't be firm at the top and no travel.
Mike, is the reservoir level changing? Mark your reservoir level on the outside of the reservoir with a grease pencil, and see if you can get the peddle to go all the way down. If the level drops you are having an adjustment problem. If it doesn't drop, it's a master cylinder problem. If it's an adjustment problem, it could be that the shoes are riding up inside the drum, instead of, or as well as, spreading out - caused by incorrect assembly. My two cents worth.
Ron
Thanks guys. I will bring it back to the grage tomorrow. I believe you guys are on the money. Possible there is a bubble floating around. And I agree, the brakes do come in handy. Especially when people accelerate like mad to pass only to look at the car and zoom in front. %$#@ tourists! I should be doing this myself ... but thought that a garage good bleed them easily enough.

You know I thought it was odd when he started on the front right to bleed the brakes.
Ok so I took it back and they called about an hour later......The mechanic explained that this was the best he could do. It was exactly the same. He said I think the master cylinder is where the problem is. Frustrated, I drove it assuming that this was the best. But this morning, undaunted I checked and adjusted the pedal shaft to the master cylinder, turned 2 bolts and voila. Stops on a dime and leaves 8 cents change.

I bought an excellent book on Amazon.com that is "How to keep your Volkswagen Alive, a manual of step by step procedures for the complete idiot" That's where I found the solution. As well as Chilton.
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