Hi all, garage smell like gas this morning. Coming from engine compartment. Have dual Webber’s. Nothing wet so it’s probably fumes. Something easy I can do?
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First, get a fan in there and air it (garage) out, and don't run any power tools. Have you had the car long? Check all your fuel line connections first.
More info is needed: did you fill the tank right before parking in your garage? Air temp overnight? It's easy to place cardboard under the car to see where it's dripping. Drive on the cardboard, check in a couple of hours. Many times the fault is at the gas tank with improper vent lines. If so, lots of threads on how to fix.
Jim Kelly posted:More info is needed: did you fill the tank right before parking in your garage? Air temp overnight? It's easy to place cardboard under the car to see where it's dripping. Drive on the cardboard, check in a couple of hours. Many times the fault is at the gas tank with improper vent lines. If so, lots of threads on how to fix.
Smell is from engine compartment. It’s fumes, I think.
Can you guys tell what kind of Webber’s these are?
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Is the gas line really from 03/14/11? Looks strangely stretched around carb in 1st picture. Immediately go buy a good fire extinguisher and look at some of the engine compartment solution like Blaze-Cut.
WOLFGANG posted:Is the gas line really from 03/14/11? Looks strangely stretched around carb in 1st picture. Immediately go buy a good fire extinguisher and look at some of the engine compartment solution like Blaze-Cut.
Just noticed that. Is it the age, quality, or the wrap around the carb that you have issue with? The line goes to a splitter thing that’s looks like a regulator but no fuel filter I can see. What do you recommend?
Mike Naz 356 posted:
WOLFGANG posted:Is the gas line really from 03/14/11? Looks strangely stretched around carb in 1st picture. Immediately go buy a good fire extinguisher and look at some of the engine compartment solution like Blaze-Cut.
Just noticed that. Is it the age, quality, or the wrap around the carb that you have issue with? The line goes to a splitter thing that’s looks like a regulator but no fuel filter I can see. What do you recommend?
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ALB posted:I'm guessing they're IDF's (or clones) or Dellorto's. Look along the carb bases where they bolt to the manifolds. On one of them you should be able to read what they are-
They are Webber’s.
Sniff carbs coming from them ? May be over filling
Alan Merklin posted:Sniff carbs coming from them ? May be over filling
Definitely from the carbs. Overfilling? How do I correct the issue?
May be dirty needle valve / float level not allowing it to shut off the pressurized fuel flow ...might pull the oil stick too and see if that smells like gas .....
I think I would move and reroute the gas line going UP TO the pressure regulator and then around the carb body to the T. I'm thinking all that gas from the regulator since it is up high could drain down into car when left over night. I'd try to get the reguator and line level with bottom of carb mounting. Part of the Madness that you will soon experience is swaping out the rubber fuel line for stainless steel lines with AN or banjo fittings.
WOLFGANG posted:
I think I would move and reroute the gas line going UP TO the pressure regulator and then around the carb body to the T. I'm thinking all that gas from the regulator since it is up high could drain down into car when left over night. I'd try to get the reguator and line level with bottom of carb mounting. Part of the Madness that you will soon experience is swaping out the rubber fuel line for stainless steel lines with AN or banjo fittings.
This is the regulator. Don’t want to redrill new holes to mount lower if I don’t have to, unless I have to. Also, the dial, what do I need to do with that?
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I had leaking around the intake manifolds (bolts worked loose over time). Might be worth a quick check.
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It's set at 3.5 lbs try resetting to 3 lbs. that alone may be your gas smell issue by allowing too much fuel pressure to the carbs
Alan Merklin posted:It's set at 3.5 lbs try resetting to 3 lbs. that alone may be your gas smell issue by allowing too much fuel pressure to the carbs
Will turning it up or down affect performance, or idle at all?
Is this your first air cooled car with carbs?
Theses cars do have a smell to them, especially after a nice long run. Some people think they stink, but I think it smells glorious. After a run, and parked in a closed garage, I'll go out there just to smell it and listen to the pinging of a cooling engine.
But, these cars do come from their makers with some tinkering and sorting to be done. There could be an actual leak or an adjustment to make it smell less glorious.
Remember that the float chambers in the carbs are open to the atmosphere, so some gas smell is normal. It shouldn’t be overpowering, though.
There 3 bolts sticking our about 6-8 inches below the pressure regulator that might work. Be sure you don't have a gas HW heater (or furnace) in your garage area.
WOLFGANG posted:There 3 bolts sticking our about 6-8 inches below the pressure regulator that might work. Be sure you don't have a gas HW heater (or furnace) in your garage area.
Are you drinking again Greg?
Mike, do you notice any liquid gas coming from the central hole on that regulator immediately after driving?
I recently viewed a YouTube video by someone who installed one of those on a VW and it leaked almost immediately. They said they'd been getting reports of that being a common problem with those after posting their video.
They replaced it with a Holley.
Carlos G posted:Is this your first air cooled car with carbs?
Theses cars do have a smell to them, especially after a nice long run. Some people think they stink, but I think it smells glorious. After a run, and parked in a closed garage, I'll go out there just to smell it and listen to the pinging of a cooling engine.
But, these cars do come from their makers with some tinkering and sorting to be done. There could be an actual leak or an adjustment to make it smell less glorious.
Yup, my first air cooled. But raw gas smell not that glorious.
Bill Prout posted:WOLFGANG posted:There 3 bolts sticking our about 6-8 inches below the pressure regulator that might work. Be sure you don't have a gas HW heater (or furnace) in your garage area.
Are you drinking again Greg?
It is 5 O'clock! Many houses have natural gas hot water heaters in garage and many aren't very well issolated. Car gas fumes gather low to ground right where the igniter is located. Result KA-BOOM.
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Sacto Mitch posted:
Mike, do you notice any liquid gas coming from the central hole on that regulator immediately after driving?
I recently viewed a YouTube video by someone who installed one of those on a VW and it leaked almost immediately. They said they'd been getting reports of that being a common problem with those after posting their video.
They replaced it with a Holley.
Regulator is dry
All of the places to look that have been mentioned previously are excellent bits of advice! Clearly every one of them came from personal experience(s).
Not to downplay, and certainly not to dismiss, your concern but as Carlos G wrote above: these cars do have a certain smell about them.
Raw fuel leaking anywhere can be a significant problem but I can definitely tell the difference in my garage after driving my VS compared to our 2016 VW.
I’m thinking the recommendation about covering the air filter on the carb may be the answer until I find a decent mechanic locally. Or an experienced owner around willing to go over the car with me.
Forgive me if you already mentioned this, but where are you located?
Lane Anderson posted:Forgive me if you already mentioned this, but where are you located?
He's in Sherman Oaks, CA
Mike....I'll be in Woodland Hills at the "Village Mall" (I think it's called). at the Cars n Coffee tomorrow morning about 7am. Its at that mall about 5 blocks south of the 101 fwy on Topanga Cyn Blvd. ALSO....any of you others on here....come on out ! My car is RED and it's easy to find. Me ? I'll be the slave fanning the flies off "Red Rhonda" !
They look like 40 IDF to me. DO NOT RUN all metal line from carb to carb. Engine expands and WILL CRACK metal lines eventually. You are better off running metal lines and a T on the firewall with a short length of rubber hose to each carb, allowing for engine movement and expansion.
That regulator is JUNK. If you have an electric pump, they are usually self regulated. If you have a mechanical pump, the pressure can be adjusted with a stack of pump gaskets to change the height and thus the fuel pressure.
Did you put a gauge on that regulator? Do you know the pressure? Without a gauge, you do not. Just because it says 3 or 3.5 pounds does not mean that's what you are getting. Any more than 3.5 pounds will overwhelm the float valve in your Webers. My money is on that.
If you are mechanically inclined, great, Mike. If not, you soon will be. And you'll be so proud when you fix it!
DannyP posted:They look like 40 IDF to me. DO NOT RUN all metal line from carb to carb. Engine expands and WILL CRACK metal lines eventually. You are better off running metal lines and a T on the firewall with a short length of rubber hose to each carb, allowing for engine movement and expansion.
That regulator is JUNK. If you have an electric pump, they are usually self regulated. If you have a mechanical pump, the pressure can be adjusted with a stack of pump gaskets to change the height and thus the fuel pressure.
Did you put a gauge on that regulator? Do you know the pressure? Without a gauge, you do not. Just because it says 3 or 3.5 pounds does not mean that's what you are getting. Any more than 3.5 pounds will overwhelm the float valve in your Webers. My money is on that.
If you are mechanically inclined, great, Mike. If not, you soon will be. And you'll be so proud when you fix it!
Hi, thanks for your input. I just got the car few days ago as is. Not familiar with them. Just learning. The gauge seems flimsy and did tighten the screws. I Assume mechanical pump is installed since there is a gauge. I did take it down to 2.5 now and will try that and hope it does not affect the engine. They were originally set on 3.5. I’ll also try to see if I can find a better quality gauge, if availability. I’m also looking to get the velocity horns for the carbs, per a recommendation. I’m sure I’m going to have to take it in when I find a qualified mechanic locally either way. I also have to figure out a way to seal the engine compartment.
Mike,
Your only about 35 miles from Greg at Vintage Motorcars. Take the car to him and have him look it over, it will be pennies compared to trying to figure it all out yourself and he will probably end up saving you money. I couldn't recommend him more.
-=theron
Mike Naz 356 posted:Carlos G posted:Is this your first air cooled car with carbs?
Theses cars do have a smell to them, especially after a nice long run. Some people think they stink, but I think it smells glorious. After a run, and parked in a closed garage, I'll go out there just to smell it and listen to the pinging of a cooling engine.
But, these cars do come from their makers with some tinkering and sorting to be done. There could be an actual leak or an adjustment to make it smell less glorious.
Yup, my first air cooled. But raw gas smell not that glorious.
When I had a Type I 1915 in my VS I sometimes smelled gas---not ever much though. Now my Type IV engine has Dells and they must be different than the original carbs because there is never a whiff of gas smell in the garage.
Does anyone know anything about this and a reason the Dells don't let gas odors out?
If you have a mechanical fuel pump - here's what it will look like:
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WOLFGANG posted:If you have a mechanical fuel pump - here's what it will look like:
Nope, looks like I was wrong. There is a cover in its place. Were you recommending the gauge then be removed or just change it?
The "gauge" is actually a pressure regulator. Good ones (Holley) are okay - not sure any are all that accurate and some do leak. Many do add a separate fuel pressure gauge so they know how much fuel is accually being delivered.
In this photo you can see the fuel pressure gauge -
There are many different types and quality of electric fuel pumps from inexpensive Facet/Empi ******** pumps to quality rotary Carter fuel pumps. It is probably located under the gas tank behind the driver's side wheel. Suspect there will be a filter there too.
DO take Theron's advise 35 miles to Greg and I am sure he will familiarize you with that is where on the car. I have seen so many new owners become disenchanted it short time because they don't work on the cars and have to take it here and there to get anything done....hang in there , learn about you car and learn the basics to wrenching as we will be here to be of help.
I met with Mike at a cars n coffee in Woodland Hills this morning. What a nice guy ! He's gonna fit right in with us and what a cool car he now has ! Typically he has some things to fix and fuss with and is already on the "heated trail" to correct them. The fuel hoses, pressure regulator, and fuel pump is sort of a mess but he is aware of what should be done. He's already on track with getting some velocity stacks I see.
The firewall is 3/4" too far forward to line up with the engine tin around the bell housing properly so there's an open gap for air to come in there. Surprisingly, the rear area around the rear tail lights is blocked off really nice except for the corners where the tail lights are. So a little more work there and that will be a non issue thus allowing only air from the deck lid grill and the famous "VS HOLE" in the firewall to enter.
While we were looking at his car a lot of people were walking up to tell him how really"Cool" his Silver/Black Speedster looks ! Jeeze ! I got jealous and wanted to move mine over by his so I could get some of that positive flow !!! Congratulations Mike...............Bruce