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Used to work on bugs and vans 20+ yrs ago - but didn't realize that I had forgotten even the basics - maybe I should blame creeping senility.
Anyhoo: my clutch has started slipping (didn't when I did the 3 hr testdrive!!) and so I need to jack the car, remove the rear wheel and check the adjustment on the cable. right?
But, and this is embarressing - where do I put the floor jack? I tried lifting on the tubes that are located just in front of the rear wheels and lifted it, BUT once I had placed the Jack stand under the end of the bar near and in front of the wheel, lowered the jack, then the wheel just dropped down and was back on the ground. I even tried lifting on the bottom of the shock and placing the stand again on the bar/tube and same thing happened.
Where should I be placing the jack, and where the stands.

Thanks
grant
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Used to work on bugs and vans 20+ yrs ago - but didn't realize that I had forgotten even the basics - maybe I should blame creeping senility.
Anyhoo: my clutch has started slipping (didn't when I did the 3 hr testdrive!!) and so I need to jack the car, remove the rear wheel and check the adjustment on the cable. right?
But, and this is embarressing - where do I put the floor jack? I tried lifting on the tubes that are located just in front of the rear wheels and lifted it, BUT once I had placed the Jack stand under the end of the bar near and in front of the wheel, lowered the jack, then the wheel just dropped down and was back on the ground. I even tried lifting on the bottom of the shock and placing the stand again on the bar/tube and same thing happened.
Where should I be placing the jack, and where the stands.

Thanks
grant

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Images (1)
  • DMangoman
Mangoman, you're in luck!
I had the sled upside-down last week, so I just modified the picture I took with then a few little arrows.
The floor jacking points I use are right at the front end of the tunnel and right where the engine and tranny bolt up -- like these fine fellas have said already -- and the fixed jacks get placed right under the rear torsion and the front axle beams.
Just gotta be careful not to flatten your grease nipples on the front beam.
With four little jacks under the car, it hasn't moved on me at all in seven months of climbing all over it.

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Images (2)
  • jack points
  • front axle before chop
Hey Cory: Thanks. I had the stand under the rear torsion bar (at least it SURE looks like where I had it - definitely where I wanted to put it) and it appeared like the axles 'drooped' and next thing the rubber was back on the floor, but the stand was still in place.From your other pic it looks like that was normal and I maybe was not high enuf. I will try again tomorrow AM and hope for the best.

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Images (2)
  • no caps and lookin good..
  • DMangoman
The rear suspension is going to droop on you. It's the nature of the beast. If you look at the paininthebug file, you'll see that most of my car's recent history has it in the air on jack stands. I can't tell you the number of times I've moved it around the shop floor, but it's always the same procedure.
Roll the car to where you want it, chock the front and jack the rear. Use a floor jack if you have one, and go in under the tranny's bell housing for the jack placement. Take it up about a foot to a foot and a half, and use one jackstand for each side of the rear under the torsion, as high as you can get them.
Let the floor jack down gently, and cradle the torsion with the "U" pocket of the jackstands.
Take the floor jack around to the front, and gently raise the front of the tunnel to the same height as the back, place two stands under the front axle beams and lower the floor jack gently again.
If you want to go crazy with it, use a level; sounds like you don't need to, but it'll ensure stability if it's not wobbling around on you.
Here are some more pix. Might help.

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